How did you clean the plenum and the motor? Solvent? Did you use the dremel tool to get it off? I noticed a leak the other day and I"m trying to gauge if I should take it on. I've only started working on this truck 1 1/2 years ago.

 

I haven’t read this old thread, but It is unusual for plenums to leak. The only way to confirm there is a leak is by doing a boost leak test. Is that what you did?

on edit: After removing plenums, I stuff a towel in each head to collect debris, then scrape most of the old sealant off with scraper tools. Then a wire wheel on a drill and finally solvent (brake cleaner). Vacuum as much as you can before removing towels and then vacuum intake ports for good measure.

 

I just did my plenums on Tuesday. I replaced mine with RiffRaff billet plenums though. I removed most of the wire harness, to make room to get in there. After removing the Y pipe, I removed the UVCH plugs, IPR plug, CPS plug, Oil temp Plug, IAH plug, alternator connections, and all the connections form the turbo and turbo pedestal will also have to be removed to give you the slack you need to pull the harness back and out of the way. Once this is done, remove your Glow plug solenoid bracket, or the Control module on some trucks from the pass/side plenum and pull the harness back out of the way. (IN MY CASE ONLY BECAUSE I WAS NOT GOING TO REUSE THE OEM PLEUNUMS, SO IT DIDN'T MATTER IF IT GOT BENT IN THE PROCESS). Once I removed the bolts on the Pass/Side I also removed the Hp Oil X over line, pry up the plenum slightly and twist the entire plenum counter clock wise. This broke loose the last bolt under the HPOP on the pass side. I was now able to use an opened end wrench to loosen the bolt enough, to pull out the plenum. I then used a Sawzall to cut the head off the bolt and remove the left over stud. Once I removed the plenums, I stuffed rags in the runners and covered the plenums with duct tape to keep any trash or debris out until I was ready to reinstall the Riffraff plenums. But God forbid you drop a socket or a nut and it falls in the exposed runner. Not good at all. I have a T4 turbo and Reg/Return system, so I did have to remove the fuel lines get access in there as well. I'll be honest, it is a lot of work, but I feel it's worth it, and more so if you've got a leak.

 

I did not do a boost leak test. I don't even know how to perform that test. I noticed some oil on the plenum and intake boot on the driver side. Several of the turbo boot locations are a little dirty. Could it be the boot that is leaking instead? I've been trying to diagnose a loss of power and increased EGT's. The problem is intermittent and can change from day to day. It's most noticeable when under a load (Towing or climbing hills, THey don't even need to be big hills). I feel the throttle response is a bit slow. It can idle rough at times and has an increased idle during warm up. I have my suspicions that it may be the IPR but I"m exploring all options before ordering that expensive part. or the fuel pump for that matter. The IPR however where the wire connects is loose and can move within the housing from side to side. I'm just trying to learn anything I can.

 

Oh no!!!!!!!

This is not necessary. Just loosen the bolt and then remove and install plenum. That hole is slotted for that reason.

How did did you get another bolt in that hole????

 

Ok, I have some suggestions - will you start another thread about your truck so your symptoms and repairs can help others?

I’ll post again in ‘your thread’, but drive pressure (up-pipe) leaks are the most common reason for these trucks to lose power and MPG while making higher EGT. The oil on and in boots is normal.

 

I don't know how to start a thread. I was however in there on a start up the other day and noticed a little smoke coming from back where the turbo is. Not enough to identify where it was coming from exactly and it stopped after a bit of running.

 

From the 99-03 sub forum click on ‘post new thread’.

Not sure what that looks like on PC. @Sous can be more help there.

Smoke under the hood at start-up is likely from leaky up-pipes.

You’ll want to change them with a bellowed up-pipe instead of the donut gasket failure prone Ford version.

Like these.

 

@jbyrne , I have moved your posts in order to create your own thread. I have also tagged @ronjon95 because your original question was asking ronjon95 how he cleaned the plenum to block surface after it was moved. The original thread can be found by clicking here.

In addition, if you are on a PC you can create your own thread by by clicking the "+ New Thread" orange/yellow button at the top left of your screen and as seen below circled in red.

 

I included the procedure here for the billet plenum installation. You'll notice that for the billet plenum installation that stud is not used, nor will the billet plenums fit with the old stud in place, nor can the stud be removed due to the fact it hits on the HPOP. It has to be cut off. This is why I posted with in my post that on the Billet plenums this needs to be done. On the OEM plenum's you are correct, you can slide them in and out. My apologize if I wasn't clear on this.
http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

 

I had no idea they were like that....

I’m kind of shocked really.