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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rear end swap

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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 11:21 AM
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Rear end swap

I have a 1986 f150 4x4 with 5.0 efi and it has a Ford 9 inch rear end axle code 16(non-locking 3.50). It needs a rebuild due to previous owner driving it without fluid in it. Thought the noise was coming from the transmission. Well I have been given a new rear end that has 3L50 on the tag. Which I know means 3.50 ratio limited slip. Is there any reason I can’t swap it out? Also is there anything I need to be aware of? The new rearend has been rebuilt and is ready to go.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 12:45 PM
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If swapping the full housings and not just the centers I would check where the spring pads are.
Measure from as wheel face or backing plate to center of spring mounts on both to make sure they are the same so no "got you"!
Don't know if you can measure the ujoints if the same between the 2 but if different you can get a new one to fit the new rear and your drive shaft.

Other than that I don't see why it will not work.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 01:09 PM
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Thank you! It came out of another F150 so I would think the springs would all line up but I will measure those for sure. Since it’s already been rebuilt I was just gonna lower the old one and bolt the new one in.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorebs9589
Thank you! It came out of another F150 so I would think the springs would all line up but I will measure those for sure. Since it’s already been rebuilt I was just gonna lower the old one and bolt the new one in.
Was this F150 also a 4x4 like yours?
If not is why I said to measure as I think there may be a difference.
Best to be safe than sorry.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jan 11, 2020 | 07:27 PM
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The only difference between 4x4 and 2x4 is the spring width. 4x4 used 3 inch wide springs, 2x4 used 2.5 inch wide springs. Should not affect anything if you swap the whole thing. If you have good brakes on your rearend, and you don't want to mess with bleeding the brakes and trying to get the u-bolts loose on the springs, you could just pull the axles on your old rearend, take all the bolts out and the driveshaft out, and just remove the center section. Do the same for the new rebuilt rearend and just swap it in. Slide your axles back in place and a few other odds and ends and you are done.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2020 | 02:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Gorebs9589
It needs a rebuild due to previous owner driving it without fluid in it.
You would just need to clean out your axle tubes/diff housing/rear wheel bearings thoroughly of remaining steel debris.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2020 | 08:25 PM
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So as I’ve been working on this project finally this weekend I have discovered that my original rear end had the brackets for the sway bar on it and my new rear end does not. So apparently there is a few differences in these rear ends. So I’ve just decided to swap the chunk out of the new one and put in my original rear end
 
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