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Got the old original windshield out and the new one is prepped with gasket and stainless trim and ready to go in. It looked like the factory used a little non-hardening sealer on the sides/pillars in the pinch weld. Is it necessary to use sealer here, or anywhere else?
Thanks
I did not use any sealer when I installed my front rear and side (supercab) gasckets. That was 3 years ago and I don't have any leaks. One thing to make sure of is to use plenty of soapy water on install and make sure the seals set in all the way. Good luck.
I guess I'll be the oddball here. Mine leaked just a tad at each lower corner. We pinpointed the areas and used a little Loctite clear silicone sealant on the outside.
Between the outside glass and the seal. Been about 8 months, so far so good.
I just bought a tube of this last month in anticipation of removing my broken windshield sometime soon. I know some people haven't used anything at all, but I did quite a bit of reading on the subject and thought going with this 3M product would be a wise choice. It sounds like it has the properties of what you were looking for. Just a suggestion
Designed for creating seal between rubber windshield gasket and auto body
Non-hardening synthetic rubber-based formula is ideal as a glass bedding
Suitable for use as supplementary sealer for auto glass
Non-sagging properties are excellent for overhead and vertical auto seals
One-part sealer applies without mixing and cleans quickly with a dry rag
I guess I'll be the oddball here. Mine leaked just a tad at each lower corner. We pinpointed the areas and used a little Loctite clear silicone sealant on the outside.
Between the outside glass and the seal. Been about 8 months, so far so good.
I too have used a similar product to seal a leak on a rear window. But when replacing a windshield I used nothing but the rubber gasket - no leaks.
The big ultimate question of using a windshield sealant vs rubber gasket alone is whether the bare windshield gasket (without sealant or bedding compound) isn't slightly leaking and water trickling & seeping down into the windshield frame in a non-visible way?
Leaks around these F-Series trucks have destroyed countless pickups over the years and is a known issue with them. I won't argue the issue too much but y'all are taking a huge chance with developing minor leaks that can easily turn into major windshield frame rot down the road. Unless you have a major and immediate leak that's plainly visible as water dripping or running down onto the dash etc - it could be seeping in between the metal cab frame and the gasket and laying in there, beginning the rot process that these trucks are famous for.
This spring I will be dealing with the consequences of my truck's former owner's decision not to use any type of proper sealant in conjunction with the windshield gasket. Some leaks can plainly be seen and others slowly rot away the frame and are not seen until bubbling metal appears and by then it's too late. Just some cautionary advice is all . . .
The big ultimate question of using a windshield sealant vs rubber gasket alone is whether the bare windshield gasket (without sealant or bedding compound) isn't slightly leaking and water trickling & seeping down into the windshield frame in a non-visible way?
Leaks around these F-Series trucks have destroyed countless pickups over the years and is a known issue with them. I won't argue the issue too much but y'all are taking a huge chance with developing minor leaks that can easily turn into major windshield frame rot down the road. Unless you have a major and immediate leak that's plainly visible as water dripping or running down onto the dash etc - it could be seeping in between the metal cab frame and the gasket and laying in there, beginning the rot process that these trucks are famous for.
This spring I will be dealing with the consequences of my truck's former owner's decision not to use any type of proper sealant in conjunction with the windshield gasket. Some leaks can plainly be seen and others slowly rot away the frame and are not seen until bubbling metal appears and by then it's too late. Just some cautionary advice is all . . .
Great point and much appreciated. I will be replacing my windshield again in the near future and will likely use a sealant this time. Thank you.
Update - Got the new windshield in today. Thanks to lafermedavid for addition install tips. I bought a tube of the 3M glazing noted above but ended up not using it. I did apply the glazing to the seal on sides and top but unfortunately the first attempt to get the windshild installed failed and that black sealer was getting EVERYWHERE from extra handling. What a mess. I ended up cleaning all the glazing off the seal and starting over without it. I think the glazing is a good idea for seal insurance but beware it can make a hell of a mess if you are not experienced. Its kind of sticky too which inhibits the ability of it to slide on the metal so that can work against you. Two very key factors I learned that helped me. Use LOTS of soap solution lube and get some good suction cups for handling. I was able to do the whole job without a helper but having one would make it a little easier. I bought a pair of dual cups as shown and they are wonderful. Used a piece of 1/8 diameter nylon cord which worked well for pulling the lip over the pinch weld inside. Various plastic trim tools also came in handy. Job was a little more difficult than planned but if I did another it would be much easier as is usually the case 2nd time around.
Owl strike in my f100. Had the glass installed by a local shop. Took three days. I believe the seal was from precision. These are made in China and run a bit short. Glass was ordered out of Tulsa, but comes from China. These run small also aa per the installer. Chrome locking strip that came with the seal was 9/16 and would not fit. He ordered a 3/8 roll and. I came back a week later and he installed it with minimal issues. Cost $300.
Drove it around for a week without the chrome locking strip with what seems like no leaks. After the chrome strip was installed it helped to spread the seal out more. Been driving it about 2 months now and don't see any leakage.
Installer used dubble cups to place the window and singles once it was in. He could smack and bump the single with his palm to help guide the glass into the seal channel. Only place that may be a problem is the top corners. I can pick the seal up and look under it into the open frame area. It seems to seal but I'm keeping an eye on it.
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Not all leaks are visible
and starting over without it. I think the glazing is a good idea for seal insurance but beware it can make a hell of a mess if you are not experienced. Its kind of sticky too which inhibits the ability of it to slide on the metal so that can work against you. Two very key factors I learned that helped me. Use LOTS of soap solution lube and get some good suction cups for handling. I was able to do the whole job without a helper but having one would make it a little easier. I bought a pair of dual cups as shown and they are wonderful. Used a piece of 1/8 diameter nylon cord which worked well for pulling the lip over the pinch weld inside. Various plastic trim tools also came in handy. Job was a little more difficult than planned but if I did another it would be much easier as is usually the case 2nd time around.
