E40D Pump Swap Question. Need Some Advice.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 136
Likes: 17
E40D Pump Swap Question. Need Some Advice.
Rebuilding my 94. I'm making good progress.
I have the trans out. E40D.
It was rebuilt. The guts were anyway. I can tell it was opened. Has a brand new TC etc Guy I bought the truck from had a receipt from trans shop for 2600 for a rebuild less than 2 years ago.
That being said, I know I had trans fluid coming from bell housing before I ripped it apart. I also opened up the trans pan and replaced the solenoid pack as I was getting codes of bad power supply to the TCC solenoid. It was not replaced with the rebuild. This solved the issue fully of my truck stalling when put in D! Actually it made the thing roll and shift like butter.
With the trans off and on my home made wood jig, the pump seal looks new, but I'm seeing fluid weeping down the face of the pump. Im thinking the TC bushing has either slipped forward and cut off the return drain hole or slipped forward out of the punch groove and spun which is common.
Heres where Im at and I need guidance from guys that have been through this. I know I have to split the pump to replace the bushing. I also know this is a huge PITA and requires some ****ery with steel bands to get the halves back together etc.
I can buy a reman pump assy complete for under 200 shipped to my door that has the upgraded bushing and seal mods with enlarged back drain holes etc
There wasnt a single spec of metal in my pan or on my magnet. Not a single grain and I checked close. The trans is in good shape.
My question is, if I buy the all up pump assy is it just a matter of pull the TC shaft through and out, remove bolts, pull the old pump assy complete, put new pump assy in with some ATF on her and replace the outer gasket and bolt her back in?
Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to get this bad boy back together and rolling so I can start working on the rear end. I dont want to end up having to bring the trans to a specialty shop or have anyone else eat my money and time.
I have the trans out. E40D.
It was rebuilt. The guts were anyway. I can tell it was opened. Has a brand new TC etc Guy I bought the truck from had a receipt from trans shop for 2600 for a rebuild less than 2 years ago.
That being said, I know I had trans fluid coming from bell housing before I ripped it apart. I also opened up the trans pan and replaced the solenoid pack as I was getting codes of bad power supply to the TCC solenoid. It was not replaced with the rebuild. This solved the issue fully of my truck stalling when put in D! Actually it made the thing roll and shift like butter.
With the trans off and on my home made wood jig, the pump seal looks new, but I'm seeing fluid weeping down the face of the pump. Im thinking the TC bushing has either slipped forward and cut off the return drain hole or slipped forward out of the punch groove and spun which is common.
Heres where Im at and I need guidance from guys that have been through this. I know I have to split the pump to replace the bushing. I also know this is a huge PITA and requires some ****ery with steel bands to get the halves back together etc.
I can buy a reman pump assy complete for under 200 shipped to my door that has the upgraded bushing and seal mods with enlarged back drain holes etc
There wasnt a single spec of metal in my pan or on my magnet. Not a single grain and I checked close. The trans is in good shape.
My question is, if I buy the all up pump assy is it just a matter of pull the TC shaft through and out, remove bolts, pull the old pump assy complete, put new pump assy in with some ATF on her and replace the outer gasket and bolt her back in?
Any advice or guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to get this bad boy back together and rolling so I can start working on the rear end. I dont want to end up having to bring the trans to a specialty shop or have anyone else eat my money and time.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,357
Likes: 813
From: Mi'kma'ki
Yeah,if you want to just replace the pump, You'll pull the filter,stand the trans upright so the parts behind the pump can't fall out and pull the pump.
Ideally, you would replace the pump bolt gaskets like are included in this kit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-Fr...s/111983769978
Then also replace the converter nuts, though you probably don't need to do either and most people don't haha.If you don't use a slide hammer to remove the pump there is a way to pry without prying against that thin part of the case and risk breaking that,rendering your trans useless and that's to place an short screw driver across the valve bodies so you can use a large,long screw driver or other pry object against the back of the pump and pry gently from behinds both sides of it....but I'm not recommending it. Just saying,if your going to do that,that's how you do it without breaking your trans but you should research and watch a youtube vid or something on how to properly pull it.
If,when,you go to slide the shaft back and it doesn't slide in easily,that means even though you might of evenly installed and snugged the pump bolts and torqued them properly,it's still slightly off and unevenly bolted to the trans,so just pull it back out and try again.When correct,the shaft will slide right in as easily as it slid out.
Ideally, you would replace the pump bolt gaskets like are included in this kit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-Fr...s/111983769978
Then also replace the converter nuts, though you probably don't need to do either and most people don't haha.If you don't use a slide hammer to remove the pump there is a way to pry without prying against that thin part of the case and risk breaking that,rendering your trans useless and that's to place an short screw driver across the valve bodies so you can use a large,long screw driver or other pry object against the back of the pump and pry gently from behinds both sides of it....but I'm not recommending it. Just saying,if your going to do that,that's how you do it without breaking your trans but you should research and watch a youtube vid or something on how to properly pull it.
If,when,you go to slide the shaft back and it doesn't slide in easily,that means even though you might of evenly installed and snugged the pump bolts and torqued them properly,it's still slightly off and unevenly bolted to the trans,so just pull it back out and try again.When correct,the shaft will slide right in as easily as it slid out.
Thread Starter
|
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 136
Likes: 17
Yeah,if you want to just replace the pump, You'll pull the filter,stand the trans upright so the parts behind the pump can't fall out and pull the pump.
Ideally, you would replace the pump bolt gaskets like are included in this kit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-Fr...s/111983769978
Then also replace the converter nuts, though you probably don't need to do either and most people don't haha.If you don't use a slide hammer to remove the pump there is a way to pry without prying against that thin part of the case and risk breaking that,rendering your trans useless and that's to place an short screw driver across the valve bodies so you can use a large,long screw driver or other pry object against the back of the pump and pry gently from behinds both sides of it....but I'm not recommending it. Just saying,if your going to do that,that's how you do it without breaking your trans but you should research and watch a youtube vid or something on how to properly pull it.
If,when,you go to slide the shaft back and it doesn't slide in easily,that means even though you might of evenly installed and snugged the pump bolts and torqued them properly,it's still slightly off and unevenly bolted to the trans,so just pull it back out and try again.When correct,the shaft will slide right in as easily as it slid out.
Ideally, you would replace the pump bolt gaskets like are included in this kit;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/COMPLETE-Fr...s/111983769978
Then also replace the converter nuts, though you probably don't need to do either and most people don't haha.If you don't use a slide hammer to remove the pump there is a way to pry without prying against that thin part of the case and risk breaking that,rendering your trans useless and that's to place an short screw driver across the valve bodies so you can use a large,long screw driver or other pry object against the back of the pump and pry gently from behinds both sides of it....but I'm not recommending it. Just saying,if your going to do that,that's how you do it without breaking your trans but you should research and watch a youtube vid or something on how to properly pull it.
If,when,you go to slide the shaft back and it doesn't slide in easily,that means even though you might of evenly installed and snugged the pump bolts and torqued them properly,it's still slightly off and unevenly bolted to the trans,so just pull it back out and try again.When correct,the shaft will slide right in as easily as it slid out.
the reman pump with the modified bushing and seal comes with the outer housing gasket. I dont thnk I'll do the TC nuts they look fine.
Also you're basically saying once I think I got it, when I slide the TC shaft back in if it doesnt just slide back into place I didnt seat the pump properly and I can take it out and jiggle it and try again? Until the TC shaft just slides in and seats and then I know I got her and reassemble?
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