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So I'm tracking down a battery draw. At first I thought it was an instrument cluster fuse #2 but later found it's actually fuse #1 adjustable pedal. I'm not even sure what that fuse is for. My truck is a lariat. Could I just leave the fuse out?
With the cluster out and fuse #1 out
With cluster out and fuse #1 in.
What should I be reading on the meter at that setting?
Both grounds are disconnected from the batteries and I'm testing a ground cable to battery post.
It's been a while since I was in anything other than an XL. But your truck must have power pedals. Adjustable closer to the seat. The switch is on the right side of the steering wheel, 2 arrows maybe.
I try to steer clear of wiring but I believe anything over 0.05 is a draw
I wonder why a circuit w/ a dummy plug has a parasitic draw?
That said, it looks like the only thing on that fuse is the adjustable pedal switch....so if you don't have an adjustable, then I don't see why you couldn't leave the fuse out.
Unplug all of the connectors going to the adjustable pedal assembly. If the reading goes to zero, the pedal and or assembly is probably bad and that eliminates a wiring issue. If more than one cable, suggest you plug them in separately and check the meter reading. When I have had a current draw problem in the past, I remove the battery positive connection, and connect an amp meter in series with the battery and start pulling fuses one at a time until the meter reads 0.
Appreciate the replies FTE. I've been outside trying to replicate the issue. Doing a little more thorough testing. After connecting the meter and waiting about 30 seconds, readings settled to .06.
my son and I did the surgical tubing door seal weeks ago and it is possible the doors were not closed completely causing a drain. That may have me chasing a ghost, I don't know. I'll just have to keep an ear open for weak batteries upon start up. Thanks for being here when needed.
Tried to start the truck this morning and noticed the clicking wasn't as smooth as usual. Turned the key over and just wasn't enough juice to get her going. Torque Pro was showing 10.4v on the batteries before trying to start. Cranked until the batteries died which was about a second.
WellI have a very short commute to work...like 1.5 miles. Could this be the cause of my batteries draining?
I could not find a parasitic drain the last time this issue came about. If the truck is plugged in during cold nights around 25 to 30*, morning starts are extremely smooth.
One and a half miles is way too short of recharging time, especially in cooler times when battery resistance is high, reducing the acceptance charge.
TMT, would a higher amp alternator be of some help. Every couple of days I TRY to make it a longer trip and grab a Frisco sandwich and sweet tea. I have noticed that does help.
To some extent, but I’d only go to a high amp if you really needed a new alternator. If not, the smaller alternator pulley would help a little.
I think I talked about this a little in my YT 230a alternator video.
During the initial running of under a minute you can push more amps into the batteries, that’s the biggest issue with the stock 110a alternator, it gives away that charging opportunity. But if you look at the graphs from that video, the charge drops pretty quick, and that’s due to the resistance of the battery building. If you need to change batteries, the AGM batteries charge faster, but again, you need more that a 110a.
Even with the 230a, again the graph, is still taking a charge of a few amps after 8-10 minutes. With an hour drive we still are not fully charged to perfection.
The best bang for the buck with those short drives is a small charger overnight. Otherwise you into 5 bills or higher to compensate. And you still won’t be where you want to be.
Try letting the truck warm up more in the morning. I usually just go out and start it up a good 5 minutes before I have to leave since I also drive short distances. I also put a 180 amp alternator on that I got from ficmrepair. That low voltage can quickly cause a snow ball effect and kill other parts ie ficm and injectors.
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