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Hello all, I currently own a 2014 f350 with the diesel. It currently has a readylift lift kit which includes a total lift of 3.5" in the front, 1" in the rear (remove factory 4" block and replace with a 5"). I also installed the readylift radius arm drop brackets. Been running the kit for 2 years now. It sits level, the second I put a load, it has a cali lean.
Can I replace the 5" with true 6" blocks made by ICON? I have a short bed with a 1 piece drive shaft and dont know if this will be too much strain or yanking the yolk.
I think you will be fine as long as you get the proper block are you sure you don’t have a carrier bearing you dont say what cab you have just that the truck is a short bed. Though I seem to remember that there was a crew cab short bed with a one piece driveshaft at some point but don’t know when off the top of my head. If it is a one piece the you would need a tapered block but you should be good on the height. I have the 6” icon block on my truck and they are stout, but mine has a 2 piece drive shaft so I had to shim the carrier bearing down and use flat blocks. The other thing you could do is add air bags if you like how your truck sits now and don’t want the rake when unloaded but an inch is about what I have and it doesn’t look like it’s got too much rake.
I think you will be fine as long as you get the proper block are you sure you don’t have a carrier bearing you dont say what cab you have just that the truck is a short bed. Though I seem to remember that there was a crew cab short bed with a one piece driveshaft at some point but don’t know when off the top of my head. If it is a one piece the you would need a tapered block but you should be good on the height. I have the 6” icon block on my truck and they are stout, but mine has a 2 piece drive shaft so I had to shim the carrier bearing down and use flat blocks. The other thing you could do is add air bags if you like how your truck sits now and don’t want the rake when unloaded but an inch is about what I have and it doesn’t look like it’s got too much rake.
It's a crew cab short bed with a single piece drive shaft
Install ne ubolts and torque to spec. Retorque at 250 miles then 500 miles and then again at 1000 miles. Only negative is your gonna get wheehop and spring wrap
Grab a JY pack, yank the main leaf, cut just behind spring eyes, slap it in your existing packs. You'll get a little lift, more load capacity, less axle wrap.
D/S angle will likely be fine. Worst case you'll need angled blocks - if it was me I'd just machine my existing blocks, but only if necessary.
Leafs are beautiful 'cause they're so easily modified. Basically idiot-proof so long as you use new u-bolts, torque to spec and re-torque a couple times in the first few weeks.
PMF does make nice stuff, I have a 5 piece set of there brake lines on my truck.
As previously mentioned 6" block is going to be a noticeable amount of axle wrap. Are you purchasing the block and traction bar kit together? It might me more beneficial to go with a Roadmaster Active Suspension, Torklift Stable load, stiffer rear spring or air bags for towing.
PMF does make nice stuff, I have a 5 piece set of there brake lines on my truck.
As previously mentioned 6" block is going to be a noticeable amount of axle wrap. Are you purchasing the block and traction bar kit together? It might me more beneficial to go with a Roadmaster Active Suspension, Torklift Stable load, stiffer rear spring or air bags for towing.
Is tempered the way they are manufactured or material type?
I have a 99 F250 with V10 and already notice the axle wrap under the back end. From multiple sources traction bars are a great addition for our trucks. I will be getting some after Header install on my truck.
Is tempered the way they are manufactured or material type?
I have a 99 F250 with V10 and already notice the axle wrap under the back end. From multiple sources traction bars are a great addition for our trucks. I will be getting some after Header install on my truck.
They pitch the blocks so they arent flat. To avoid axle wrap when you have a single piece drive shaft.
How big are the tires? 38s will be more prone to axle hop than 35s with that big of a block. I'd go full spring at that height, or at least a 4" spring with a smaller block. If you don't want to do springs, at least plan on adding a traction bar with those giant blocks. Another option would be air bags to level it out when it's loaded.
I've had my PMF air bag blocks for about 6 months now. I like them so far. They do the job they were intended to do.
Also Trevor at PMF is fantastic to deal with. I was in a hurry to get these before a big trip and Trevor made sure it happened. Great customer service in my experience.
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