What would be some problems you may experience if you put a tapered block where you need a straight block, or vice versa ?

I am refering to lifting the rear of the truck of course, using a block, going from a 2" block to a 4" block.

I have a F250 Crew Cab Short Bed. If anyone has done this, is there one of the particuliar types of blocks suggested for this lift( straight vs. tapered )?

 

well, the difference is going to affect your driveshaft angle. since the factory 350 of your truck would have come with a specific block, i would be sure to get that one, to assure factory reliability. now, an extended cab long bed should be the same lenght as your chassis, so i wonder, does that use the same block? I am debating going up to the 4 inch block myself, and can i use an extended cab short bed block? I guess anyone with the ford part numbers would know. any answers?

 

Yep - I got the wrong 4" blocks the first time and my truck vibrated like crazy under acceleration - had to go back and get the non-taperd blocks. I'm not sure which trucks have which - but my ex-cab longbed has non tapered and my Dad's reg-cab longbed has tapered blocks.

 

Got this from other posts. Can't confirm all. I do know that the Extended cab shortbed uses tapered blocks.

For 4" blocks
-----------------
137" & 142" WB
F81Z-5598-GA(L)
F81Z-5598-FA(R)

156", 158", & 172" WB
F81Z-5598-DA(L & R)

Someone that has done this mod may be able to verify.

 

I'm in the process of doing this right now. (just ordered the parts today) only in reverse. I'm taking 4" out and putting 2" in on an F350. It seems the main concern from info I've gained on this site and my parts man is to get the same blocks based on body type. Std, Xtra, & Crew. It seems that is what determines the taper or non taper. Drive shaft part #s are same according to parts man.

I will have a set of 4" blocks and U bolts for sale next week after install. I paid $161.65 for blocks and U bolts w/tax for new ones. If someone wants to make me an offer pls email.

Ted

 

It seems like ordering a block from an F350 Crewcab SB might do the trick. (Assuming they are like the LB's and use a 4" block). Although I have heard its not a true 4" block. Skyjacker makes a caster bearing lowering kit (basically a 1.5" piece of metal) that readjusts your driveline angle for larger blocks. I had vibration on my 350 long bed when I added 2" blocks, and the bracket took care of the problem.

 

i did it! just get the ford 4" block out of a f350 CC 4x4

 

I am doing the 4" to 2" conversion this weekend on my F350 CC SB. The new 2" blocks I got from ford DONT LOOK TAPERED, and the existing 4" on the truck also DONT LOOK TAPERED, but I don't know how much tapering to expect on a tapered block. I'll watch out for any vibrations afterward.