Alright, so
specifically refers to changing the aforementioned parts

and not any diagnostics to do with PIP or Spout signals, wires and connectors, etc.



That's the clarification I was looking for, to continue helping find a solution. I understand if you're upset your truck is acting up, but don't take it out on me.

 

I'm not really interested in this as I'm just bouncing ideas and listening to what others suggest. If you don't have anything relevant to add then move on.

I'm out of town at the moment, but I will try pulling codes again. I had no codes thrown just before I pulled the old equipment out, but I will check again when I return Monday. The dizzy was new by Cardone from RockAuto. It wasn't a reman unit, but new. Same with the other parts. I try to steer away from remanufactured parts whenever I can because they can sometimes be unreliable.

Now it is very true that I didn't probe the connections to see what the signals are and such for the PIP simply because at the time, it seemed that was a likely cause plus I already had good reason to refurbish my ignition system with the worn bushings inside my old distributor. I'm happy to have done that portion as it needed to happen. It just unfortunately did not fix what I was originally experiencing.

At this moment, there are a number of different possibilities as to why I am experiencing this miss. It's been a few years since I've cleaned my MAF so perhaps I'll give it a good once over. I just have to go through and eliminate the easier inspections first before I start doing the more difficult things. Cleaning and inspecting the MAF is simple. I'll also be pulling my spark plugs again just to give them a quick look when I make the switch to 9mm plug wires. I believe I eliminated the possibility of a bad o2 sensor by driving with it disconnected for a little bit.

 

you may have gotten a code when you did disconnect O2 and I missed that, (the reason for this statement) wonder why you didnt get a code for that at least?

 

So I have finally fixed my problems. I changed out my older spark plug wires for the Ford Racing 9mm high performance wires and it has fixed all of my misfire problems, plus the tach is rock solid once again.

When I was figuring out the wire routing for the new wires, I decided to remove the cap first. I seperated the wires by bank, and then connected each plug as it was shown on the wire routing diagram sticker on the truck. Using zip ties, I fashioned wire seperators to keep everything very neat and tidy. Then, I slipped the RH bank underneath the air plenum, connecting each wire as I went and adding more wire separators as I went. The wires are too long, so it wasn't as clean as I would've liked, but worked just as well. I then routed the LH bank, keeping wires 5 and 6 as far apart as possible for as long as possible. Again, I added wire separators where ever I needed them. The plug ends were difficult to snap into place on the spark plugs themselves. There were a couple times I thought I had seated the boot all the way, then gave it a slight test tug to be sure it was fixed in place only to have it slip right back off. So I had to make doubley sure that those boots were connected properly.

Since adding the new wires plus distributor and other components, the truck is running and driving like never before. I'm very pleased with the results. I have to say those new wires are great, and I highly recommend them for our engines. Thanks everyone for all of your wonderful help! I seriously appreciate your input!

 

Glad to hear it worked out. I've used the Ford Racing wires for a while. Great durability, low loss & the resistance stays pretty constant over years.

And consistently under $50, or at least they have been.

Hang on to your old distributor.