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1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

erratic Tachometer

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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 04:27 PM
  #1  
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chambliss
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erratic Tachometer

I have A 94 Ranger XLT Supercab 4X4, 4.0 and 5 speed tranny.
I have a problem with my truck that only appears every year or so and for an extended period of time. The tachometer starts to jump erratically and the check engine light comes on. The truck runs as though it is running on about 3 cylinders. I have checked the codes and all I get is normal running code 111. I think from what I can that the tach is totally electronic on this truck. Assuming that the tach controls nothing in the computer I started to look for common hot wires/ ground wires that would affect a sensor of some type and the tach at the same time. I found three grounds, two on the drivers side fender well and one near the battery. (actual battery ground) I cleaned these connections up and spliced new ends on the wires. It didn't really help. Shortly after that it quit and I thought that maybe I had taken care of the problem. Well it is back and I'm starting to think that something else besides these grounds has a common wire that also runs the tach and something else. Again I didn't have any codes and do realize that something could be going bad and still be within specs. Help would be greatly appreciated on this matter.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2003 | 09:15 PM
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Ken00
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From: South Jersey
erratic Tachometer

Welcome to FTE!!!

Have you run the KOER test for codes when its erratic.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2003 | 08:58 PM
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yes I have run the key on engine running tests. It is the strangest thing. Since I posted it has quit again. I'm still thinking that it may be moisture getting in a connection somewhere.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2003 | 02:01 AM
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I have a 94 2.3l. I had a problem like you were describing with the tach acting erratically. (usually when this happened it was reading very low) The engine would also run rougher and the check engine light came on. It would come and go and I just kept driving it. It started coming back more frequently and staying longer. I finally managed to get the codes read while the problem was going on and it was giving a 224 (spout circuit open) Some people I have heard had a short in the SPOUT circuit and I looked into this and couldn't find any problems with the wires.

Anyway it turned out to be the EDIS module that the SPOUT signal goes into. I put a new one in (about $95) and that solved my problem. I'm not sure if the 4.0 is set up this way or not with the SPOUT signal going into the EDIS but might be worth looking into.
 

Last edited by Andywk; Sep 26, 2003 at 02:03 AM.
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