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Possible wrong u joint ?

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Old Dec 31, 2019 | 11:51 PM
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Possible wrong u joint ?



I’m new to the form guys .I’m im having some issues I recently have been chasing down a mixture of vibrations and a slight shake I just able to get my truck back from home iv been busy with military stuff so I drove it cross country and didn’t realize how bad my truck drove ! I start to get this vibration/shake going at high way speeds it will start to be noticeable around 70+mph and gets worse I’ve replaced worn drive train components like new tires and rims , rear brake rotors, ball joints ,carrier bearing and just had my drive shaft straighten and And rebalanced with new u-joints the drive shaft repair helped a lot but it still has this slight shake and vibration going hwy speeds it’s really aggravating me I looks under the rig last night and saw that there’s a space in-between the u joint caps and the diff yoke kinda hard to see in the pictures don’t know if that would even be enough to throw it off center line ?I don’t know if this would be contributing to this issue my truck is giving me or anything else it could be ? Transmission mount ?pinion angle ?possibly bad alignment? I’m clueless right now any help would be great !
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Check also tire pressures, match them to the door sticker. If something is just a little out of balance or off center, a few psi change in tire pressure may move the vibration out of highway speed range. I recollect on mine, front tire pressure too much over the door sticker value (which is way less than sidewall maximum) starts a vibration and hood shake around 65 to 70, and doesn't disappear until between 5 and 10 over the starting speed. Bringing front pressures down closer to the door value either eliminates the shake or puts it out of highway speed range. I vaguely recollect that higher pressure means lower starting speed. I haven't had the same issues with rear tire pressure, but that's still something to check.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 01:22 PM
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I had a issue with this on a truck I tried several different brands of ujoints it all boiled down to. The rearend yoke was wore and allowed side to side movement.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by paddler
Check also tire pressures, match them to the door sticker. If something is just a little out of balance or off center, a few psi change in tire pressure may move the vibration out of highway speed range. I recollect on mine, front tire pressure too much over the door sticker value (which is way less than sidewall maximum) starts a vibration and hood shake around 65 to 70, and doesn't disappear until between 5 and 10 over the starting speed. Bringing front pressures down closer to the door value either eliminates the shake or puts it out of highway speed range. I vaguely recollect that higher pressure means lower starting speed. I haven't had the same issues with rear tire pressure, but that's still something to check.
didn’t think to check it thought it would be done right by the tire shop turns out the rear tires were at 40psi so I got them inflated and I’ll have to drive it tomorrow
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3 forever
I had a issue with this on a truck I tried several different brands of ujoints it all boiled down to. The rearend yoke was wore and allowed side to side movement.
was it those tabs where the u joint caps sit that was wore out ?
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 08:54 PM
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Yes tabs where wore out cause side to side play I have seen where people have pulled the caps and installed a dime in each end inside the ujoint caps. To get rid of the play I wouldn’t necessarily suggest that but if you where in a situation where you needed to get home I definitely would. Because side to side play could cause it to potentially fly out.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3 forever
Yes tabs where wore out cause side to side play I have seen where people have pulled the caps and installed a dime in each end inside the ujoint caps. To get rid of the play I wouldn’t necessarily suggest that but if you where in a situation where you needed to get home I definitely would. Because side to side play could cause it to potentially fly out.
if I have to end up replacing it how hard would it be to change the yoke bearings or should I just leave it alone
 
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 06:22 PM
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Personally I’d just pull it throw a new seal in and install new one Loctite the nut and torque to spec.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 7.3 forever
Personally I’d just pull it throw a new seal in and install new one Loctite the nut and torque to spec.
well I want be changing it anytime soon for now cause my wrench set fell out on the highway some crack must have got it lol
 
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