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Heater controls do not change from defrost to foot or face.
is the yellow round part supposed to move anything?
is anything supposed to be connected to the yellow circular part. or it just change the flow of vacuum?
all lines in engine bay appear to be in good working order.
the hose from check valve to vacuum canister is not leaking.
can I hook up the vacuum hose directly to manifold to test ? wont hurt anything?
According to the Ford Parts Catalog, they all take the same switch.
Valve assy. air conditioner vacuum selector
Fits: 73/ up F100-250 w/ integral A/C or built in A/C (dealer installed) w/ high low vent system
P/N D5TZ-19B888-A Motorcraft P/N YH-285
The Bronco shows the same P/N for the 78-79 model (The Bronco is listed in the passenger car catalog, not the truck catalog).
I have a question about heaters as well if somebody could try to help? My heater blower works in my 76 F100 but only blows out cold air, the **** that moves from off, to heat, and defrost, is kind of bound up at heat. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks for any input in advance.
If it's heater-only, with no AC, you should be able to see the other end of the Hot/Cold cable under the dash on the passenger side. You can disconnect the cable and actuate the lever by hand and see if it makes a difference.
That one was hanging up on me a little when I got my truck, and I saw that the exposed end of the cable was bent, where it attaches to the heater case. I straightened it, and got it working well again.
I have a question about heaters as well if somebody could try to help? My heater blower works in my 76 F100 but only blows out cold air, the **** that moves from off, to heat, and defrost, is kind of bound up at heat. Anybody have any suggestions? Thanks for any input in advance.
It could be the heat control valve in the engine bay is stuck in the off position or, the wire inside the spiral sheath from the control lever is sticking. I would check the valve first. If that's good then the wire/sheath. You can free that up by running a small bead of light viscosity oil along the top of the outer sheath. The sheath is not sealed so the oil soaks through and lubes the wire. Wipe off any excess oil and work the lever back and forth, a little at a time, until it's free. I did this on mine a number of years ago and it still works like butter.
Mark.
If it's heater-only, with no AC, you should be able to see the other end of the Hot/Cold cable under the dash on the passenger side. You can disconnect the cable and actuate the lever by hand and see if it makes a difference.
That one was hanging up on me a little when I got my truck, and I saw that the exposed end of the cable was bent, where it attaches to the heater case. I straightened it, and got it working well again.
This seems to be what my trouble was, it wasn't bend just bound from lack of using. I sprayed the cable and actuate levers and the levers are moving freely now. So the fan blows and the actuators are moving freely so I only need a dry day to go out and bring the engine temperature up to operating temperatures and see if it warms up now. Thanks again for the guidance.
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