When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Autozone tfi #2 just quit on me. No start again...
I have never got a code from this either. Only code that ever comes up is for the egr valve sensor.
I read somewhere that a bad hall effect sensor could cause premature tfi failure. Is there any truth to that? Is there a way to test it?
I read somewhere that a bad hall effect sensor could cause premature tfi failure. Is there any truth to that? Is there a way to test it?
Yes, there is truth to that, and there's a decent chance that is what's going on here. The PIP can be tested, but if it's the original part I'd be inclined to just replace it.
So was this a factory thing, the remote mount setup (electrically) mounted NOT remotely on the distributor???
I read somewhere that a bad hall effect sensor could cause premature tfi failure. Is there any truth to that?
No there is not any truth in that. The hall effect sensor is just an off an on switch. It just tells the ICM (TIF) to conduct the Ignition Coil to ground or not.
Heat is what makes the ICM go bad. It needs a good heat sink an a lot of White Thermal Compound. Do not use dielectric grease as dielectric grease is not a heat transfer compound.
Originally Posted by Seth Lingenfelter
Is there a way to test it?
No there is not. As you would need to heat it up to test it and testers at auto part stores do not do that. They will tell if it is bad (not conducting) but will not tell you if it is a good one when it gets warmed up.
No there is not any truth in that. The hall effect sensor is just an off an on switch. It just tells the ICM (TIF) to conduct the Ignition Coil to ground or not.
Heat is what makes the ICM go bad./
Maybe it's just an old-wives-tale, but I've heard a few times over the years (from seasoned mechanics and otherwise), that a failing PIP could take out a TFI. I agree it's just a switch, so in theory it shouldn't be able to have that effect, but maybe a marginal/erratic PIP signal causes the TFI to heat up more? I'm just totally brain-storming/speculating here.
The PIP output can be tested. It's best done with a scope, but can be done with a simple DVOM. But here too, if the PIP's marginal condition is heat-related, it might look fine when cold.
I believe in doing proper diagnostics, but I also believe in performing preventive maintenance. Replacing a 25 year-old PIP could readily fall under the "PM" category.