SD to MAF
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2008
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Okay I have officially fried my brain with this cam stuff. What lift would I be at with the stock cam and 1.7 rockers? I tried to figure it out but I'm not good at math and I have never understood this cam specs.
thanks
thanks
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Take the advertised lift and divide by 1.6 to get the lobe lift of 0.300", then multiply that by 1.7 and you get 0.510" lift.
The 0.480" lift it produces with 1.6 rockers will work with stock GT40 springs but I'm not sure 0.510 would, if you have aftermarket springs and associated parts rated for that much lift then there is no problem using 1.7 rockers but they won't make a hugh difference to power output. Upgrades are cumulative though so every little bit helps.
The 0.480" lift it produces with 1.6 rockers will work with stock GT40 springs but I'm not sure 0.510 would, if you have aftermarket springs and associated parts rated for that much lift then there is no problem using 1.7 rockers but they won't make a hugh difference to power output. Upgrades are cumulative though so every little bit helps.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2008
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Well I finally got my engine back from the machine shop. Everything was good and all at stock specs with the exception of going ahead with flat top pistons. I have been dealing with the cam/rocker debate with myself and I have decided to go with a new cam instead of the 1.7 rockers. Now Mr. Conanski you recommended the 35-512-8 for me but you also recommended the 35-349-8 for another member on a 94 Bronco. I'm sure he is doing something different than I am but I wanted to make sure I'm not leaving anything on the table. I am running GT40 heads, flat top pistons, long tube headers, single 2.5 exhaust and anything else needed for torque in hilly terrain for towing 5000lbs. I'm also running 35's with 4.56 gearing on 6 inch lift if that makes a difference. Remember that I haven't ever been able to figure out this cam stuff! Thanks for your help!!!!
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5,086
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From: N.W. Alabama
The 0.480" lift it produces with 1.6 rockers will work with stock GT40 springs but I'm not sure 0.510 would, if you have aftermarket springs and associated parts rated for that much lift then there is no problem using 1.7 rockers but they won't make a hugh difference to power output. Upgrades are cumulative though so every little bit helps.
it depends what the Bronco is doing Head wise, GT40's give up at 0.500 lift, as Conanski stated above
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Cross-Country
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I know about the springs and don't have a problem changing them especially with the cam showing 513 lift. I just want to get the most out of this motor while keeping the SD programming. Like I said before, this camshaft jargon tends to make my head hurt.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2019
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From: N.W. Alabama
you can check the paper work for the spring rate on the heads you bought, could say something like 0.550 lift, meaning the springs will work with a cam that has 0.550 or less, still doesnt mean you want to be that close to spring rate all the time, if you can find what the Bronco was doing it can give you more info/knowledge to learn from
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2017
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From: San Jose, CA
Not sure if it was mentioned and I just didn't see it, but what gear ratio and tire size are you running with? No matter how powerful the engine, overall gearing is a huge thing in the power "feel" department obviously, so I was curious.
And in your first post you mentioned buying a BAP sensor. Not sure that's needed, since the MAP and BAP are the exact same parts and use the exact same connectors and wiring from what I remember. The only differences that the BAP includes a "block" on the nipple to keep you from attaching a vacuum line to it.
So if you did indeed swap over to MAF with this project, simply leave the vacuum line off and continue to use the same sensor. Assuming it was working before of course, it should be fine with your new engine management.
If someone knows different from that, please correct me if I'm wrong. But that's how I understood it.
Good luck!
Paul
And in your first post you mentioned buying a BAP sensor. Not sure that's needed, since the MAP and BAP are the exact same parts and use the exact same connectors and wiring from what I remember. The only differences that the BAP includes a "block" on the nipple to keep you from attaching a vacuum line to it.
So if you did indeed swap over to MAF with this project, simply leave the vacuum line off and continue to use the same sensor. Assuming it was working before of course, it should be fine with your new engine management.
If someone knows different from that, please correct me if I'm wrong. But that's how I understood it.
Good luck!
Paul
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