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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Oil Cooler Back Flush

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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 02:06 AM
  #16  
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However, when cleaning the washable filter element of the IPR inline filter, please make sure that this test in the video below under the tap is carried out before reinstalling the filter element. The filter is optically clean, but it does not let the water through properly, as the test under the tap shows. The filter should be blown from the inside out with an angled compressed air gun and then thoroughly cleaned with water.
If the filter element is not permeable properly, the water will flow out of the top of the filter element, you can see it at the beginning of the video. The water must be discharged from the side of the filter element

 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 09:12 AM
  #17  
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Chemistry was never my best subject.

Black oxide forms in oxygen-poor conditions, Fe3O4, which would be our normal cooling jacket state. Red oxide forms in oxygen-rich environments, Fe2O3, such as depleted coolant or boiling coolant.

Another factor is the electrical charge within the coolant. It's an old test, but when I had my 2001 7.3L F-250, I played with the cooling system like many others, including a coolant filter documented at TDS. I have the same filter on the 6.0L, and I had continued to use a zinc cathode sacrificial rod with the OE motor in the 6.0L, which showed good results in the 7.3L, but did not with the replacement motor as it was depleted.

Images I used to have on my Webshots site and were in the discussion over at TDS 17 years ago.












The condition of my T/S housing at 50,000 miles. Prior to this mileage, many 7.3L owners were replacing their T/S housing due to it rusting out.















 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 07:13 PM
  #18  
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Jack where on the 6.0L did you place the zinc?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:00 PM
  #19  
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Sean,

In one of the two filter head ports. We had some debate if it needed to be grounded to the engine block, but with the braided TFE hoses, it was, confirmed with a multimeter. I know someone with a 7.3L who did it after the pictorial who used rubber hoses in the setup ran an 18ga wire between the block and the filter head.

I had no idea if it was going to work or not. I saw the zinc rod available from Dieselmann's Store out of Oregon at the time and thought I'd give it a try. Everyone was having issues with the T/S housing rusting so what the hell. DieselSite started to sell housings due to the issue back then. Those pictures are from May 2003 when I dumped the coolant right before buying the 6.0. Even in the current ASE testing, the issue of electrolysis is discussed. I don't have a good handle on 6.0L use though.

https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/electrolysis.html







 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:03 PM
  #20  
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Forgot to add, West Marine and other boating stores have a ton of them, titled Engine Anodes.

God, I'm starting to feel like Powerstroke Help.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:11 PM
  #21  
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I should have a lot of places to pick from do to my location.
I will take a look into this.

Thanks.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2019 | 08:18 PM
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As much as it appeared to work well for me on the 7.3L, it's not something I have a lot of confidence in doing. Now, if you talk to a Navy guy ........
 
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