I didn't know if it was a c6 or e4od, so I loiked at the tag, code e trans showed the OD transmission, and that does look like a tps rather than a vacuum sensor.

and very happy to have another IP in the stable, one day when I'm bored, I'll install it an see if it's any good.

The one I'm running now came from a salvage yard, unknown but with a warranty for 150, and it's going great, so hopefully get lucky,

also gonna try my hand one day at doing the seals on my old pump that ran good before but crapped out. I think it's still good but needs rebuilt.

I like having the extra parts on hand that i've been accumulating, now got extra pumps, injectors, clutches, fuel pumps, and that's mostly all she needs generally.

Maybe I'll grab that trans and have it tested, the yard has a warranty so if it's as good as it outwardly looks, I can sell it, if it's bad, got a report card and a refund.

In any event, I have more to pull off that truck, and half my list I hadn't got to get, ran out of daylight.

I thought I was driving with no alternator, but somehiw my super redneck repair worked. One brush lead squashed, the other drilled and crimped, broken, wrong part, with a length of sil-fos jammed in, toothpicks hold the brushes back for install.

Zero changes I thought it would work, but I drove today and no discharge. It's still somehow working.

 

Same here, I've got a shed full of almost everything I "think" I'll need. Bout the only thing still on my list is a spare trans and rear end. Anytime I see something in good or next to New shape I pull it and put it in the shed. In a pinch when every store is closed or out of stock it'll be out there!

When I pull the pumps at the junkyard I pull em with the lines and they never charge but a few dollars more, I've got plenty of spares if any of mine break

 

Having the lines on there is sure nice, I probably would have got those too, but someone else had mangled 4 to take some injectors. I got 3 on the passenger side, and didn't want to remove the fuel filter ect to get at that last one over there.

I spent much time looking for a oem motorcraft alternator, and the heaviest nicest wires to hook up, when I found the idi, I was surprised, need another day to wrench on it, the jy is closed for the holiday. Gonna put that alternator in today when I get my ash up n movin'.

 

Alright, got the alternator in..

Donor was an early 90's lincoln continental, for the alternator and connector wires, the primary wire was sourced from a late 90's grand marquis with eyelets and fused links built to exact length.

I picked the 8.5 in large frame 130a unit clocked 12 o'clock apart, and fit is absolutely exactly as 2g 70a it replaced, perfect fit.

I took the slim fender washer from behind the stock pull nut and put it behind the pulley on the 3g, perfect belt alignment and case clearance.

The pics online varied in most cases from what I found in my 85 so just had to figure it out, but was pretty straightforward. I kept the stock alt harness because it backfed B+ to several yellow wires, doesn't hurt anything to stay hot, keeps old electrical routing unchanged, but clipped out where unneeded terminals were, kept ext voltage regulator, but it is now unused.

Fat wire went to the hot side of GP relay, the yellow went to the hot side of the start relay, which backfed by old alt harness retained to the other stock yellow wiring.

Green w/ red is pulling double duty now, from same color lead from near the external regulator. one to energize the alt as it's supposed to, and 2 it is now powering a 30a relay to activate an electric booster fuel pump, because this was hot on ignition and not acc.

I retained the small red ammeter wire that feeds through hot to the yellow wires in the stock alt harness, but clipped it's small yellow sister, that also was hot, to prevent burning wires or stock ammeter gauges because of high amperage.

The red wire has no outlet for now, but when I put in a volt meter gauge in the stock cluster, that yellow will be geounded to power that gauge.

It's running fine, no more grinding bearings noises from the old alternator. Though that 70a old bass turd was a trooper and earned my respect.

The installation went smooth and it is nice to have my axc fuel pump on that relay, I guess the alternator does what it's supposed to be doing so looks all good, I'm happy to have found an oe motorcraft that wasn't a rebuild, I will pick up a spare to have just in case, hopefully it proves as reliable as the old alternator.

 

Oh, I also put the fan and shroud back on, because leaving it idling while parked for extended time got it up 2/3 in 'normal' temp range on a 65 degree day.

I'd rather not worry about leaving it idle and getting warm, so put em' back on, it's Tennessee afterall, it can be 30 degrees one day, and 70 the next in wintertime, better to leave it on the safe side.

 

That is unusual.... even down here in South TX with no Shroud on they rarely go past 1/4 on the OEM Gauge while extended Idle even with the AC on.

A fresh Rebuild will sometimes run a bit warmer until things break in a bit.

 

It's probably because I have a smaller radiator, it's swapped from 460 gas truck, simply because they are easier to get my hands on cheap if it leaks.

It never ever gets warm though with a fan and shroud, regardless of towing outside temp or grade, very happy with the rad mod, just maybe not as much capacity to idle without any airflow, and really, it didn't get too hot, just hotter than I could ignore and never worry about it.

 

My current 3g is a rebuilt one and the old one was oem and at idle there's definitely a difference in output. This rebuilt one doesn't wake up all the way til 1k, the old oem one didn't care so nice score!

I'm extremely pleased with the 3g swap and I'm sure you'll be too