there are several options when you want to go for super high performance but for a Base OEM I think any Brand name Head Gasket is fine .. when you get into changing Rod and Pin geometry then that is another world ... like I said IF ya gotta Deck the block by say 0.10 or more then ya gotta check Piston above deck Height because it could make a big difference... surfacing the Heads not so much as they are flat and the pistons generally have enough recess for the valve lift ... generally you gonna do a valve job and the valves will be recessed a bit when you do that... Lifters will compensate a bit too as we know when you grind valves you also take a bit off the stem too.

 

Alright, thanks for all the good info, I won't be boosting, so no problem.

Incidentally after resurfacing both the decks and heads, where the gasket had broken, it was 'high'
and tight on both sides right there, causing a pinch point, that probably cracked the fire ring and overly compressed the gasket.

Could Also be higher because of exhaust gases passing and swelling the iron higher there, but close examination shows print of a crack in the former fire ring likely from pinching before, years later opening up and blowing out.

I blocked only far enough to achieve a smooth flat surface, then scraped the carbon from all around the valves.

Only have to clean out the cylinders, clean and lube the head bolts, and fashion up 2 alignment dowels.

pass side dowels came out in the head, seemingly glued in. Fortunately have some copper lineset that fits like a glove and will cut dowels to length.

Pics of resurfaced block and heads ready for degrease and installation.

 

So I got the motor all put back together, everythings goin pretty smooth. Though it's a pretty big job and it's taking a lot of time.

I spent half a day, thoroughly cleaning out the cylinders and block and heads, took my time and care lowering the heads into place.

Ultimately ended up torquing the head bolts to 95 lbs. and put closer to 100 on the bottom and rearmost bolts, where they tend to seep. I went until I felt the pressure was building on the bolt and there seemed no more compression of the gasket, and it might be dangerous to push any further. 95-100 seems strong enough, it's definitely not gonna fall off there.

Got the Valley pan, rockers, intake, valve covers on, but the oil dipstick turned into a nightmare, and took half the day, and still isn't really done right.
I lightly gripped the tube with vice grips to 'press fit' it back in. Finally, after starter removal and a life or death struggle. I got it on. But the dipstick won't make it down, getting hung up on where I had to squeeze it (just a little, but) ..

Question, will the o-ring (rtv) dipstick tube, from the 7.3 fit my truck? Not much info that I could find searching the forum, but there was mention of an adapter..

Will the 7.3 tube fit the earlier press fit block, 85? If so, will I need a matching adapter? If so, will my existing dipstick slide through the 7.3 tube or will I need the matching dipstick.

It's a pita, but not the end of the world, I got it in so at least it wont leak until I can find a replacement, and I'll just slide wire down to eyeball oil level for the time being.

Got another full days work ahead and it should be finished..

Tasks yet,

Wiring, vacuum, cables
pump and lines
exhaust
starter
accessories
Misc
Greasing
Rebuild alternator

Almost there, I just want this to be done.

 

Hey, I'm going to switch over to the 7.3 RTV style dipstick, I found an adapter, but not sure about the other pieces.

Please PM if you have an unwanted matching set of, dipstick tube, dipstick, and tube bracket. All came off the same motor, for reasonably priced plus shipping, thanks.

 

I remember on mine I cleaned it off and left the oring, put rtv on it and tapped it down into the adapter with a rubber hammer. So far it isn't leaking.

 

That sounds better than jamming the whole tube in, I'll be going to the JY on a scavenger hunt, and will try to find one. my beautiful honey babe deserves some refinement, at least safety and good visibility.

Got a big list,
mostly for comfort..
wiper delay **** & mod
window sweep gaskets
dipstick and tube
hvac blower
misc relays and switches
middle seatbelt
wiper linkage
windshield

 

she's back ... an' good as new.

thanks to all y'all for the advice along the way.

it's been quite the project, and it's great to hear her fire'n up.

I'm leaving the fan, shroud, and a/c off for now, because I won't be needin' em in the winter time.

I have an alternator and dipstick to fetch, those being the only casualties, I only lost about half a gallon of coolant alltogether, and she'll be getting fresh oil in the coming days.

I'm very pleased that there was not one broken bolt, nut or any other unforseen challenges.

Here's how it all looks..

first startup vid just fired, burping out the injectors and hadn't yet been timed.

Second vid, give her some throttle, timed and running right.

 

as I said ...would have been a good time to go thru the oil cooler....

 

Way to go! I know I was happy to hear mine running after all the work it took, also glad to hear that the bolts held an overtorque for ya

 

Nice work Leroy! Glad she’s back hummin along!

 

Thanks y'all, so I went to the bone yard today lookin for these loose ends ..

I weren't too optimistic, because I pretty much never find an idi, and if I do, it's always stripped. Not today I got a hold of a good'n.

I got that new dipstick, tube and bracket. A nice ol grimy Injection Pump, and three spare fuel sticks.

I went ahead and grabbed parts for the 130a alternator swap, I was gonna stick with the external regulated 70a, but the cost is the same, so figured i'd give it a shot. I might want to put in a rad fan at some point, and my little old 45.2 rockford amp always dims the headlights.. But I will also be grabbing this 70a off the idi and keeping the regulator as a spare in case it is as durable.

The ladies were great, didn't even charge me for half my stuff, and the other parts guy kept trying to tell her about this and that that I got too, she didn't ring em up, so freebies

I got the 3g alt, 2?big gauge hookup wire, loom with yellow, and green red stripe wires and plug, regulator attached, injection pump, 3 injectors, dipstick, tube, bracket, a hand full of 30a relays, filter base to IP inlet fuel line with good olives, for 80 bucks.

So question, where do these 2 wires go off the alternator, one is yellow, one is green w/ a red stripe. I think I read here, one goes to key on ignition, the other to the battery - or can simply be combined to the relay post or alt output? Is that right? I know where to put the fatty, but which sensor color wire goes where.

Also another question, this truck has a freshly rebuilt E4OD, looks like it is very new and clean, whereas the rest of the truck and motor are an oily pig. These trans are worth money right? I'm thinking of going to pull it out tomorrow morning, and selling it on ebay or Craigslist, what is the going rate for a freshly rebuilt, but untested probably good used E4OD. There are some other parts I'm going back for, to pull and sell, so I'll be there anyway, what is this E4OD, and torque converter likely to sell for, is there a computer to ****** also? I got tge vrv already on the IP.

 

E4OD doesn't use VRV the computer is in the firewall under the brake booster you need to pull the Fender liner down in the back to get it out, 5.5 mm socket and 8mm and a 10mm socket sometimes the 2 nuts that hold the Puter in are 11mm, normally they are 10mm

 

Oh okay, I don't know what it is, but these is some kind of electrical sensor on this IP, figured that was probably the vrv thingy.

 

They call it a FIPL, it's just a throttle position sensor though so it knows when to downshift when you out the hammer down

I'd be cautious with the trans, chances could be it was rebuilt but not right so the truck got parked or what not. I've got horrible luck with stuff like that so I don't gamble. You may check around and see if any local shops in the area could test it for you on there machine for a reasonable rate, then you'd have the sheet to prove its good. Get a week or two warranty incase it isn't.

 

^^^^^^^^ yep Electrical sensor for the E4OD the VRV is a Vacuum Regulator and Normally only has Vacuum connections it's used to control a Modulator Valve on a Transmission.... I thought IF you found a Pump with a VRV then it would not be an E4OD but probably a C6 but finding a VRV is a good Find for sure