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So I could have both Axel's regeared. I've been told at least a 4.10 ratio at least but more like 4.56 or 4.88.
Yes, both axles.
I have 33" tires, 4.10 gears, a 302 and a 5 speed overdrive in my Bronco. Personally I like that gearing in the Bronco. I do pretty much need to use 1st gear to start so it's not like the axle ratio is too low. But in normal, around-town driving I'm in overdrive by about 35 mph, so the axles aren't way too tall either. But this is a Bronco, not a truck, and I've been told that I drive like an old man (my wife even tells me that). My point being that in a truck (that would weigh more than the Bronco and I'd want to be able to haul more) I think I'd want lower gears. And if you want to be able to accelerate faster than I do you'd probably want lower gears for that reason too. The 4.10s do make it nice and quiet, but if you are regearing I'd agree, make it a big enough change to make a real difference.
Originally Posted by GavinL
What about lockers or a limited slip??
If you'd read other posts where I get into that discussion you probably wouldn't ask me that! Seriously, I have strong opinions, but I also know that others have their own opinions, and none of them are wrong. However, a lot of people "know" how the various diffs work, and many of them are wrong about that. I'm a mechanical engineer who has worked for a company that designs, builds and sells clutches for the past 32 years. Clutches are what make all limited slips and lockers work. So how they work is kind of my thing. I'm afraid I often come across as arrogant in those conversations. But what I think I am is competent and confident. So I'll try not to sound arrogant here, but no promises.
If you are going to put in a locker or limited slip, the time to do it is when you are regearing. It will be more expensive to add a limited slip or locker, but only the additional cost of the parts. If you do it later you'll have to pay the labor (or do the work) twice.
Here is a link to a thread I started on the various kinds of limited slips and lockers https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...erentials.html. In it I try to keep my opinions and facts separate. Others may disagree with my opinions, and I can't say if you will agree with me, or them, or none of us. They are opinions and even though they are different none are wrong.
I wrote that thread so I wouldn't have to repeat it all in lots of other threads, so I'd encourage you to look through it. But what I will say here is that open diffs give the most stability, and that's pretty significant a lot of the time. And 4WD, good tires, and good weight distribution will help with traction in most situations MUCH better than any diff. So in most situations you really don't need a limited slip or locker. That said, I have a Trutrac limited slip in my pickup and two lockers (a Detroit in the rear and an OX in the front) of my Bronco. So I'm certainly not against them. But while my Bronco goes rockcrawling (one of the places that aren't the "most situations" where you really don't need a locker), my pickup might be better off with two open diffs for most of the use it gets. So don't just get limited slips or lockers because people tell you that you need them. Decide for yourself.
So read that thread and then ask whatever questions you have.
So I could have both Axel's regeared. I've been told at least a 4.10 ratio at least but more like 4.56 or 4.88.
What about lockers or a limited slip??
The front Dana 44 has a carrier break at 3.92 and up gears so unless you find a thick cut gearset you will have to change the carrier on the front to go from your 3.31 gearing to 4.10 or lower gears. It would be a good time to buy a locker or limited slip at this time since your going to need a different carrier anyway. A locker puts more stress on the axle shafts, and u joints, I don't have much experience with lockers in the Dana 44 TTB axle so I am not sure how well it will hold up to a locker with 33 or 35" tires. A limited slip is much easier on parts and may be a better option for the front axle, I would recommend a gear driven limited slip like a Truetrac or Powertrax Grip Pro, instead of a clutch type in the front axle.
The rear 8.8 axle doesn't have a carrier break so you can use your existing carrier when you swap gears. The 8.8 is a good axle and has proven to hold up well with a locker and 35" tires. You have many different options for the 8.8 from drop in lockers like the Spartan, Aussie, Lock Right, full case auto lockers like the Detroit and Grizzly locker, a spool or mini spool, selectable lockers like the E locker, ARB, Zip locker, OX locker, and many different limited slips, Auburn, Eaton Posi, Trac Loc, Duragrip, Truetrac etc. It's up to you to do the research and decide what you need based on how you use your truck. If it was me I would go with a gear driven limited slip in the front and a mechanical auto locker in the rear, all budget depending of course.
$4k is a lot to spend on a 4" lift. I would look at Superlift's kits. They have a great 4" lift system complete with longer radius arms for up front for under a grand. Advertised tire size is 33", but I think you could push it with 35s pretty easy. Plus they sell a kit to convert the steering to centerlink, which fixes the janky stock steering. I just bought one of these kits. Although I haven't put it on yet, it looks very well built and complete.
I just purchased a Superlift 7” lift kit. According to their description of the lift kit, it states that hardware is included. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that their definition of hardware doesn’t include bolts and nuts, in this case the leaf spring bolts that connect the springs to the shackles. These bolts are not available from Ford, even though it is a 2001. I contacted Superlift and was told to go to a hardware store to purchase them. This is a $1100 lift kit and they can’t include 8 bolts? I haven’t contacted other lift kit companies to ask if they include bolts and nuts, but if I find another brand that includes them, this Superlift is getting returned. Just do your homework before you buy any brand!
I have never bought a lift kit that included leaf spring shackle bolts. You can find bolts that fit at most hardware stores.
The original bolts are metric, grade 10.9 and have a taper. The hardware stores around here have a very limited amount of metric bolts and none that have the taper of the original. I’ve read several differing ideas on using grade 8 SAE bolts, but would prefer an original style, not just a bolt that will fit. I would think that the lift manufacturer would be concerned about the liability issues if a non- original bolt failed and caused an accident, especially after stating that required hardware was included in the kit.
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