4.10s would be fine with 35s on a big block v8, but for a small v8 like the 5.0 lower gears like 4.56 or 4.88 would be better. The speed sensor is in the rear axle so the speedometer only needs to be recalibrated for a tire size change, it stays the same if you regear.

 

Yup, you have a 3.31 open differential (non-limited-slip). Which is odd, you don't see that ratio very often.

3.31 is pushing it with 33's. You could live with it for a while but a set of gears and lockers should be on your horizon (That's where your other 3 grand can go lol). 4.10's probly still the best option.

 

Axle code 17 is a 3.31 open differential. That will be slow to accelerate with 33s and even worse with 35s.

 

This is false. The ABS (Antilock Brake System) Sensor is in the rear axle. The speedometer sensor is in the tailhousing of the transmission, or in the end of the transfer case for 4wd trucks.

Long story short, you do have to get your speedo recalibrated. IIRC this is done electronically by flashing the speedo, since your truck is a '95. I think only dealers can do this, correct me if I'm wrong.

Correction: There is only one speed sensor on '95 trucks. It is located on the rear diff.

 

I don't know where your getting that info from. The sensor on the rear axle is your vehicle speed sensor, for the abs and speedometer, there is no speed sensor in the transfer case, and the ones in the transmission control your shifting not the speedometer.

 

It would appear you are correct about the speed sensor. I was thinking of a different model year.

 

So I should look at 4.56 or 4.88 gear ratio for 33s.

And figure out where my speedo is. Can I "flash" the speedo myself or do I need to take it to a mechanic or specifically the dealer?

Anything else I need to know? Is it easier to regear myself or have it done??

 

I would go with 4.56 gears with 33s. If you search there is a procedure to recalibrate the speedometer on the 92-96 models but I am not familiar with it. Gear setup is something you can do yourself if you take the time to figure out what special tools you need and how to set your pinion depth, backlash, and bearing pre-load. I have done a few and it isn't that difficult if you have the proper tools but it can be very time consuming, you may have to take the differential apart 3-4 times to get everything set up the right way.

 

Maybe you where thinking about Chrysler, the Jeeps and Dodge trucks of that era had a speed sensor with a speedometer gear in the transfer case or transmission tailhousing if 2wd.

 

What about the transfer case and front axel, its 4wd?

 

You have to regear both axles on a 4x4.

 

As stated below, the kit came with axle pivot drop brackets and new radius arm brackets. I chose new leaf springs because the springs, at the time, were 10 years old and I didn’t want lift blocks.

I ran my truck for years with the original 3:55 gears. It was a little harder to get up to speed but not terrible. When the pinion bearings wore out I went with 4:10 gears. I probably could have gone a little lower and been fine but I have a C6 so no overdrive.

Nothing is needed as far as the transfer case is concerned but yes the front diff will also need to be changed to the new ratio.

 

Would it be easier to Axel swap to one with a higher gear ratio? What axels would you reccomend. If I swap the front axel I am assuming it won't be a TTB. Any suggestions?

 

The only "easier" swap would be to find a front diff for a Dana 44 TTB that already has the gear ratio you want and stick it in. You'd still have TTB, in fact you'd likely still have most of the parts you currently have. But you're not likely to find anything lower than 4.10 (and even that might be hard to come by).

Swapping any other front axle in won't be easy or less expensive than swapping the gears in your current diff.

Rear axle is a little simpler, and there are a number of axles that wouldn't be too hard to put in. But again 4.10 is the lowest you're likely to find, and a lot of your options will have 8 lugs which is a mess with your 5 lug front. So unless you find another 8.8" rear axle that has the gears you want, swapping gears is likely the cheapest option there too.

I've done gears once so far and I put it in the "if you have to ask if you can, then you can't" category. It's not rocket science and all of the info you need is available on-line. But it's very putzy work. If you are confident in your abilities to follow directions and use tools like dial indicaors and torque wrenches, you can do it. But if you are questioning yourself at the start you'll likely give up before you get it done right. It's around $1000 per axle to have it done, and there's a reason it costs that much.


Oh, and you're looking for a "lower" ratio, even though it will have a "higher" number. It's a weird naming convention, but it kind of makes sense if you think about the lower gears in your transmission (like 1st gear) that have a ratio like 4:1 while a higher gear like 4th has 1:1.

 

So I could have both Axel's regeared. I've been told at least a 4.10 ratio at least but more like 4.56 or 4.88.

What about lockers or a limited slip??