Stalls when going into drive
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From: Coonass ville
Stalls when going into drive
I have the 99 f150 grandma edition... (4.2 L and NO 4wd).....its runs OK otherwise the engine just stalls when shifting into first second or drive while stopped , reverse works fine......no bucking jerking...just immediate stall......tranny is OK....brand new factory tranny installed 20k miles ago. Idle control valve cleaned and works fine.....what diagnostic steps do I need Take next?
Thanks everyone in advance
Thanks everyone in advance
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The IAC controls the Idle speed full time as the result of the Crank sensor RPM input to the computer that feeds an Idle table.
What is the Neutual or Park Idle RPM?
I would not rule out the IAC just because you cleaned it. It may still not respond properly.
It has to operate to control idle in or out of gear as well as adjust for A/C application load and power steering load variations when parking etc.
When you put the trans in gear, the converter puts load on the engine the IAC has to counter by opening enough to maintain Idle within a limit of +/- 50 rpm unless the engine is started cold, then other tables are applied from the intake air temperature and Coolant sensor readings to the computer. that modifies the Idle and fuel and ignition timing tables.
If there are no code, you need to look at live data with a Scanner for a hint reading the data, or take a low cost chance or replacing the IAC.
.
What is the Neutual or Park Idle RPM?
I would not rule out the IAC just because you cleaned it. It may still not respond properly.
It has to operate to control idle in or out of gear as well as adjust for A/C application load and power steering load variations when parking etc.
When you put the trans in gear, the converter puts load on the engine the IAC has to counter by opening enough to maintain Idle within a limit of +/- 50 rpm unless the engine is started cold, then other tables are applied from the intake air temperature and Coolant sensor readings to the computer. that modifies the Idle and fuel and ignition timing tables.
If there are no code, you need to look at live data with a Scanner for a hint reading the data, or take a low cost chance or replacing the IAC.
.
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From: Coonass ville
Thanks for the info, bluegrass....my idle speed when warmed up is between 750 and 800. I'll have to go to AutoZone and let them put their El cheapo code reader on it again. Don't recall last code numbers from one month ago...but were basically for Left and right bank lean condition and pcv valve. But this was done before the stalling started. I'll let you know the current codes when I get them.... I'm just baffled to why going into reverse works but drops to 500 rpm then back up to 750.
Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
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You can download Forscan free at www.forscan.org. You will need an ELM327 OBDII adaptor to make it work. I bought mine at Amazon for under $30. It will read every code. With the codes we can help diagnose what's wrong. Without the codes, just start changing parts until you get lucky or run out of money.
Cross-Country
Joined: Jul 2019
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From: Texas
Most of the time there is a vacuum leak. These hoses get old & crack so much so as to make an engine stall at idle. Open the hood, then start er up. Listen carefully for a hiss. Feel around on every hose looking for soft or cracked. Some may be tricky as you just can't reach em. Then there's the brake clean squirt test...this is so dangerous maybe not good to mention it. Please reply with the fix. This is always fun to see if we are correct with our diag guess.
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From: Coonass ville
Old school needs new schooling
Thanks Mark.... that's new to me about the download ...I thought you had to take yo truck to someone with a three thousand dollar scanner to get all codes. Doe's that adapter hook up to any laptop? I'll certainly pursue this.
Last edited by Grizzlyfinecut; Nov 29, 2019 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Fix grammar
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From: Coonass ville
Vacuum leaks?
Thanks clutch..... I've searched for vacuum leaks days ago... just used a length of rubber hose to listen for leaks.... unless the leak is coming from behind and under the upper intake manifold....I did Chase down a leak years ago in this area.... looks like I may have to remove upper intake for a better look. What is the best way to do a smoke test for leaks?
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
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It will work with any PC laptop with a USB input. I don't know if it works with Apple laptops.
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From: Coonass ville
Tranny problem???
Guys....changed the IAC valve.... found no vacuum leaks... still have stalling issue.
truck upshifts normally....but seems like it's lugging to downshift.... when coming to a stop it definitely feels as though the torque converter is staying locked up.....but is fine if I have the overdrive turned off....drives normally....but still stalling when going into drive .......is there any way to disable TC lock up to check this.....
truck upshifts normally....but seems like it's lugging to downshift.... when coming to a stop it definitely feels as though the torque converter is staying locked up.....but is fine if I have the overdrive turned off....drives normally....but still stalling when going into drive .......is there any way to disable TC lock up to check this.....
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In my reply I didn't mention driveline issue but sure if the converter lock up does not release it will act the way you describe.
The converter lock up should release well up in the 30 to 40 mph range.
Matter of fact in a normal fault free operation, when running in OD at moderate speeds, if you suddenly lift the foot off the throttle then reapply it while watching the Tach, you should see the converter unlock and cause the RPM to rise about 300 rpm or so then in a few seconds lock up again.
This action is programmed in to help reduce the brake/speed reduction in panic braking should that happen.
It removes the engine or put it in a 'soft' drive (fluid shear) to help keep from driving the vehicle due to the engine RPM at that moment.
A faulty lock up should cause a code to be set unless the cause is purely mechanical. Codes are largely based on electrical operations.
The converter lock up should release well up in the 30 to 40 mph range.
Matter of fact in a normal fault free operation, when running in OD at moderate speeds, if you suddenly lift the foot off the throttle then reapply it while watching the Tach, you should see the converter unlock and cause the RPM to rise about 300 rpm or so then in a few seconds lock up again.
This action is programmed in to help reduce the brake/speed reduction in panic braking should that happen.
It removes the engine or put it in a 'soft' drive (fluid shear) to help keep from driving the vehicle due to the engine RPM at that moment.
A faulty lock up should cause a code to be set unless the cause is purely mechanical. Codes are largely based on electrical operations.
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From: Coonass ville
Just got the codes
Thanks Bluegrass.... maybe the stalling is related to the lock up converter....I just retrieved three pending codes for the tranny... don't ask how many codes for the engine, hard to count that high.
anyway the three are...
P1747- pressure control solenoid A- short circuit.
P0755- shift solenoid B
P0743- torque converter clutch solenoid-circuit electrical.
I'll have to address these problems first before working on the lean banks condition and 02 sensor codes... since I daily drive the truck and don't want to damage the tranny any further.
Hard to believe that all three solenoids would malfunction at once....
Any suggestions on my next steps to take?
anyway the three are...
P1747- pressure control solenoid A- short circuit.
P0755- shift solenoid B
P0743- torque converter clutch solenoid-circuit electrical.
I'll have to address these problems first before working on the lean banks condition and 02 sensor codes... since I daily drive the truck and don't want to damage the tranny any further.
Hard to believe that all three solenoids would malfunction at once....
Any suggestions on my next steps to take?
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Always look at the codes first.
Of course there are transmission issues with the codes set for the trans causing the drivability issues..
My guess would be a harness fault from rub through or burns.
If there are a lot of engine codes, I would look at fuse #23 for being blown from a cross or a ground out. Reason is fuse 23 feeds power to a lot of circuits that can't function without power.
Get under and look at the harness from the trans back to the passenger side of the engine for a problem and exercise/look at the plugup at he trans.
Good luck.
.
Of course there are transmission issues with the codes set for the trans causing the drivability issues..
My guess would be a harness fault from rub through or burns.
If there are a lot of engine codes, I would look at fuse #23 for being blown from a cross or a ground out. Reason is fuse 23 feeds power to a lot of circuits that can't function without power.
Get under and look at the harness from the trans back to the passenger side of the engine for a problem and exercise/look at the plugup at he trans.
Good luck.
.
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From: Coonass ville
Live data
As far as the engine is concerned...the live data has a couple 02 sensors going all-over the place. Erratic voltage from .1 to.9
Short and Long term fuel trim stayed at 0 percent...never moved... something wrong there. MAF was around 0.5 at idle and up to 7.0 with throttle blip test.
KEOR test... came back with a P1000 and
P1131 code.
Stored codes are...in order of when codes were set..I assume . Maybe not...
P0174
P0136
P0156
P1131
P0171
Short and Long term fuel trim stayed at 0 percent...never moved... something wrong there. MAF was around 0.5 at idle and up to 7.0 with throttle blip test.
KEOR test... came back with a P1000 and
P1131 code.
Stored codes are...in order of when codes were set..I assume . Maybe not...
P0174
P0136
P0156
P1131
P0171
Lead Driver
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All the codes point to a faulty harness.
Trans, Ox sensors, fuel pump circuit etc..
171/174 may be separate or due to the harness issue.
What is odd is the LTFT are near zero so I would bank on the faulty harness first and see where they go, then look for a vacuum leak if needed.
Good luck..
Trans, Ox sensors, fuel pump circuit etc..
171/174 may be separate or due to the harness issue.
What is odd is the LTFT are near zero so I would bank on the faulty harness first and see where they go, then look for a vacuum leak if needed.
Good luck..
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From: Coonass ville
OK
Thanks ....that just jarred my memory.... before the issues started I did go kinda hard through a large mud puddle... well mostly water .....may have splashed the connectors and wiring harness underneath.... But of course I've done this a hundred times before without issues.....I'll check tomorrow underneath and the fuses.