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Old Dec 9, 2019 | 11:46 PM
  #16  
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on the distributor. you can leave the duraspark in it. you need to get a module its a silver box about 6x6 inchs. 1 plug goes to dist. other has 2 wires a red and a white and red. dont remember which one goes where but 1 goes to a hot in key in start position, the other goes to key hot in run position. pretty easy. by the e0xxx on the engine that is a 1980.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 02:12 PM
  #17  
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the one i purchased from the local parts store was off a 67 mustang with a 200, uses the same cap and rotor as my other one.
Also wont have to mess with the wires coming out since its a single wire from the points. was planning to do some wrenching today
but ended up feeling under the weather unfortunately.

Also found the adapter online

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-170-20...IAAOSwzOxUYnH1

this one has the correct mounting spread for the later inline big log head, and will retain the old carburetor location. even looks like it has that threaded deal to mount the factory linkage.

had seen an OE unit off a maverick that couldve possible worked, but the person managing their customer messages wasnt familiar with tape measures.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 02:30 PM
  #18  
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if you are going to stay with a points distributor, do yourself a favor and put a pertronix unit in it in place of the points.
the pertronix ignitor is a set and forget deal, and they will last forever.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 05:05 PM
  #19  
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that looks like the right spacer for the carb. also looking at your brakes you have 2 blue springs. front spring should be lt. green or lt.blue. I am doing the same thing right now. on a 64 panal
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 10:57 PM
  #20  
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been messing with older cars for a while, got the beat up 144 in it to run on a 59 year old distributor by just replacing the points. did the same ona 53 cadillac. its pretty simple stuff, just takes some tinkering. want to keep it as basic as possible for now till i get her home, shes currently stowed at a friends property. the newer fomoco distributors use the hall effect sensors too so they do the same trick, and are of oe quality.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 11:02 PM
  #21  
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as far as the brakes ima have to run through them again, i used some brake kits suited for the 67 model year, since thats all that would come up at the local parts.

If any one can pop up an accurate diagram for the spring and shoe orientation it would be appreciated.

So far Im sorting out the linkage for the clutch assembly, noticed it was missing what couldve been some kind of bushing for the z bar, so i went to ace and bough a bronze bushing about the size that would work. Its the one that sits against the mounting bracket to frame, inside the z bar itself.

to bad money doesnt grow on trees right?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 11:16 PM
  #22  
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From: hinckley ohio

maybe you can zoom in on the photo
 
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Old Dec 10, 2019 | 11:19 PM
  #23  
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i made my one bushings cannt find the right ones.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2019 | 06:58 PM
  #24  
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From: hinckley ohio

 
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Old Dec 17, 2019 | 10:48 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by bmuhlbach
i made my one bushings cannt find the right ones.
it looks like ill also have to buy more bushings to fill in the slop of the shift linkage now, since they all look to be missing. The connecting ends are all warn up, like its been ran for years with out the bushings there, like it was looking to saw threw the male ends.

Also the adapter i bought looks good on the head end, but is too small of an opening for the single holley i have now, and also doesnt have enough material to adapt my 2 to 1 barrel to that. hahaha, really cant win some times with these things. but well figure something out, I already have a little adapter i made to adapt to the larger single barrel for the old head and carb adapter , so shouldnt be a major issues, just annoying.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2020 | 10:32 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fonz61econoline
as far as the brakes ima have to run through them again, i used some brake kits suited for the 67 model year, since thats all that would come up at the local parts.

If any one can pop up an accurate diagram for the spring and shoe orientation it would be appreciated.

So far Im sorting out the linkage for the clutch assembly, noticed it was missing what couldve been some kind of bushing for the z bar, so i went to ace and bough a bronze bushing about the size that would work. Its the one that sits against the mounting bracket to frame, inside the z bar itself.

to bad money doesnt grow on trees right?
I have the shop man. for 1961 Econoline. I attached a shot of the Brakes and one of Clutch linkage. Great van! I have a 1963 retired Bell Telephone van since 1990 that still needs my time to put back on the road.
Dan


 
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Old Jan 30, 2020 | 08:14 PM
  #27  
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thank you very much gentle men, sorry I havent been chiming in lately. But never the less I am here. Seems like all the attempts to right up my autolite to work on the van with a cable linkage has failed, several times.

so the hunt for an oe carburetor begins. hopefully i can find something reasonable online.

new dizzy in

made some bronze bushings

pressed the suckers in

everything hooked up linkage wise for the clutch
 
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Old Jan 31, 2020 | 07:51 PM
  #28  
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What cable linkage were you using on the carb? The 1965-1967 Econolines with the 240 engine came with a cable to the carb.
I used that on my Econoline that originally had the long throttle rod, and adapted it to a two-barrel Holley carb.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2020 | 11:53 AM
  #29  
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From: hinckley ohio
seen some where control cable was mentioned. I looked up on summit racing web . there is different cables have to fab up some brackets. .I was thinking of changing rod set up to a cable too. Maybe next winters project so if you do maybe do a write up. If you made your bushings you might be fabbing up a bracket post a sketch. I got a notebook been tring to keep track of part no. and fabbed parts I made.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2020 | 06:31 PM
  #30  
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can any one provide me with measurements for the rod that goes from the pedal to the box mount lever? part number 9A701 on the linkage diagram. My buddy where my vans stored at, accidentally tossed the rod, so now i need to source one. I figure all thread will do the trick, just gotta know where the bend is and the over all length of the rod

If it aint one thing, its another
 
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