I have a 73 f100 with the crown vic front end and 8.8 rear end. I have the crown vic brake booster bolted in and hooked up to the stock pedal (truck was manual brakes originally). Problem I'm having is the brake pedal is way to high and if I were to cut it and weld it at a different angle i would the floor before the booster would bottom out. I have thought about using the crown vic pedal assembly but then run into issues with the steering column. Is there an aftermarket system with less of a stroke?Wondering if anyone else has done this and what the solutions were.

 

I have a master power vacuum booster and a wildwood master cylinder on mine everything hooked right up, but I have not got far enough on build to tell you how it works. the vacuum booter is only like 8" in diameter so as to clear coyote engine. I possiably might need to adjust rod length for proper stroke.

 

I don't know if your year(s) truck has different pedals between power and non-power brakes.
I ask this because of 2 different brake swaps power to non-power on a non-Ford car and non-power to power on my 81 F100 .
The point from the pivot of the pedal to the master / booster rod hook up are different between them and this could be a cause.
So if you can measure your non-pedal and a power pedal for your truck and do the same for a CV pedal may point you to what may work.

If it was me and knowing what I do on the pedals I would get a power pedal for the truck as you know that works with power brakes and fits the truck / floor.
I think I would also look into a booster for the truck, again we know it works on the truck.

So that leaves the master.
I take it the CV front clip is all CV brake parts, is the rear 8.8 also CV?
If so what is the bore & stroke of the CV master?
What is the bore & stroke of the truck master for disc / drum brakes and did the trucks booster come with a disc / drum set up?
It might look good to use the CV master and the only thing I can see might be an issue is the bolt spacing.
If the you can get a truck master in a disc / drum and has the same bore then the truck master is the way to go I think.

On my 81 F100 swap from non-power to power I checked the master bore between them and they were the same.
I then checked wheel cly.bores and they used the same wheel cly.
The calipers had the same piston bores but I had to use the non-power calipers because of the after market wheels I have.
After a hard time bleeding the system, it was fully drained as I was doing a cab off frame rebuild, new booster & master.
Only way I was able to get all the air out was to pressure bleed the system.

Good luck
Dave ----