Adding Power brake booster
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New User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Nebraska
Adding Power brake booster
The brake pedal on my 65 F100 is losing pressure if I hold on the brakes like at a stop light. I can't find a leak so I'm guessing the master cylinder is wearing out. I was thinking about taking this opportunity to add power brakes to my slick.
Can I just add a power booster and new master cylinder and keep the current drum brakes? The drums have their built in shortcomings of heat retention and water issues, but you deal with that without the power booster. Is there another downside or reason I'm not seeing to keeping the drum brakes?
I rarely tow, and hauling is limited to garden compost and the occasional run to the lumber yard.
Thoughts?
Can I just add a power booster and new master cylinder and keep the current drum brakes? The drums have their built in shortcomings of heat retention and water issues, but you deal with that without the power booster. Is there another downside or reason I'm not seeing to keeping the drum brakes?
I rarely tow, and hauling is limited to garden compost and the occasional run to the lumber yard.
Thoughts?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
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I went to Bumper2Bumper and bought a booster/MC specific for our trucks. It was the single pot MC.
I found a set of brackets in the JY, but those are available for about $20.
It was all plug-n-play. All I had to do was extend the wires for the stoplight switch and rebend the brake line. I did that by hand while it was on the truck.
The pushrod is the correct length and bolted right up to my pedal.
I found a set of brackets in the JY, but those are available for about $20.
It was all plug-n-play. All I had to do was extend the wires for the stoplight switch and rebend the brake line. I did that by hand while it was on the truck.
The pushrod is the correct length and bolted right up to my pedal.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,613
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From: Coal country
Your drum brakes are perfectly suitable as long as they are properly adjusted, in good repair and the truck is driven like it has drum brakes.
I would suggest adding a power brake booster from a '73 - '79 truck and mounting the single pot master cylinder to it. Look for the kind that uses a flat bar instead of a rod from the pedal to the booster; it is easier to set up that way, at least in my opinion.
However, for safety reasons, I would give serious consideration to upgrading to a dual master cylinder for dual drum brakes. Several members here have done this and have been quite satisfied with the results, especially with the comfort of having improved safety.
I would suggest adding a power brake booster from a '73 - '79 truck and mounting the single pot master cylinder to it. Look for the kind that uses a flat bar instead of a rod from the pedal to the booster; it is easier to set up that way, at least in my opinion.
However, for safety reasons, I would give serious consideration to upgrading to a dual master cylinder for dual drum brakes. Several members here have done this and have been quite satisfied with the results, especially with the comfort of having improved safety.
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New User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Nebraska
The MC/Booster for the 65 is apparently obsolete. Banjo suggested using a donor from a 73-79. I can also get the remanufactured set for a 67. Which would be best. I like the idea of the single pot so I don't have to mess with the portioning valve but I'm not dead set against a two pot. I think the one pot would look more unique under the hood as well. So which would you guys use as the donor, the 73 or the 67? Single pot or double?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
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67 was a one year only setup.
I used the smaller 7in booster, it worked fine.
You will need to decide if you are going to use the pushrod like the 60s-early 70s trucks used or the articulated linkage. The later articulated linkage is easier to source if you want to use Ford parts. Many ebay sellers and Summit sell the original style brackets if you want those.
Oriellys sells a booster for a 70 F100 for $78 + $20 core. These brackets for $29 will fix you right up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Brake-Booster-Bracket-Rod-Clevis-Muscle-Car-Custom-Truck-Universal-/141439787897?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ee77e379&vxp=mtr
I used the smaller 7in booster, it worked fine.
You will need to decide if you are going to use the pushrod like the 60s-early 70s trucks used or the articulated linkage. The later articulated linkage is easier to source if you want to use Ford parts. Many ebay sellers and Summit sell the original style brackets if you want those.
Oriellys sells a booster for a 70 F100 for $78 + $20 core. These brackets for $29 will fix you right up. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Brake-Booster-Bracket-Rod-Clevis-Muscle-Car-Custom-Truck-Universal-/141439787897?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20ee77e379&vxp=mtr
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New User
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Nebraska
I bought a new dual pot master with a 7" booster that is supposed to bolt right in for $165. We'll see how it goes once it warms up here in Nebraska and I can go out and work on the truck.
New question is about the brake light sender/sensor. There isn't an outlet for it to be mounted on the new master cylinder. What's the best alternative?
New question is about the brake light sender/sensor. There isn't an outlet for it to be mounted on the new master cylinder. What's the best alternative?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,972
Likes: 103
You can plumb it into one of the brake lines coming off the m/c or you can adapt to the style used on the brake pedal of 67+ trucks.
Either will work, both require some level of fabrication on your part.
If you do a google there are plenty of threads with pictures to guide you.
Where did you buy the m/c-booster?
Either will work, both require some level of fabrication on your part.
If you do a google there are plenty of threads with pictures to guide you.
Where did you buy the m/c-booster?
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New User
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From: Nebraska
Bought the booster with dual pot off of ebay for about 100 bucks. It actually went on pretty easy. It took more time adjusting the pedal travel than to get it all apart and together. It doesn't look nearly as cool as the single pot but stopping is a heck of a lot easier. I actually just hooked up the brake lines to the rear pot and put a plug in the front pot.
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You did most of the work but ended up with the same dangerous brake system. One split hose and you won't have brakes.
Last edited by Dot Heton; Jul 22, 2015 at 07:18 PM. Reason: The Internet is no place for sarcasm!!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Feb 2014
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Adding Power brake booster
Shadowrider 123 the question I have for you is what
part number was that booster you got for your single master
cylinder from bumper to bumper also name brand if you know
Thanks
Sonny
part number was that booster you got for your single master
cylinder from bumper to bumper also name brand if you know
Thanks
Sonny
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