Poly Buttons for springs?
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From: Pensacola Florida
Poly Buttons for springs?
Has anyone used the poly buttons for leaf springs? They cost about the same as the liners but I woiuld think they are less visible and you don't have to worry about them shifting around.
I have heard that you have to drill a hole to secure the buttons. Is that true. What size hole?
I have heard that you have to drill a hole to secure the buttons. Is that true. What size hole?
Post Fiend
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From: Iowa
I have heard that you have to drill a hole to secure the buttons. Is that true. What size hole?
Yes, buttons work great, but don't try this at home with your 3/8 Black and Decker drill. Wild guess is about a 3/8 hole but I don't really remember. You'll need a good drill press and your brother-in- laws drill bit index if possible.
Yes, buttons work great, but don't try this at home with your 3/8 Black and Decker drill. Wild guess is about a 3/8 hole but I don't really remember. You'll need a good drill press and your brother-in- laws drill bit index if possible.
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From: Pensacola Florida
Not sure if it will fit in correctly (due to pocket on spring) but I have access to a hydraulic punch. The buttons do go in the recess on the springs ends don't they? If they were flat I know it would work. I'll find out tomorrow if it will work in the machine. He punched four 9/16ths holes for me this morning faster than I could have got my bits out. The machine will punch a 1" hole in
1 1/4" plate.
1 1/4" plate.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: West London, England
Ive just fitted these to my rear springs and yes you do have to drill a 3/8" hole for each button and yes it was a bitch to drill the holes.
I used a drill press and 3 different drills starting with 3/16" then 5/16" nad finally 3/8"
Cobalt drills last longer than HSS but still had to be sharpened several times
Stephen
I used a drill press and 3 different drills starting with 3/16" then 5/16" nad finally 3/8"
Cobalt drills last longer than HSS but still had to be sharpened several times
Stephen
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From: Waynesville, OH
BIG plus when drilling medium-carbon spring steel (like leaf springs) is a lubricant/coolant. You can use oil (motor oil, or whatever), special drilling fluid they sell, or even dish soap thinned with a little water.
One of the fellas at work showed me a little trick to make it easier to keep the coolant in place when you don't have a high-end drill press with an integral coolant pump and collection system. Get some modeling clay (dirt cheap, literally
), roll it into a rod shape, make a small dam around the area where you are drilling the hole, and fill the dam with your coolant. The coolant does it's job until you break through. Easy, cheap, and really makes drilling any tough material a WHOLE lot easier. Give it a try. 
One of the fellas at work showed me a little trick to make it easier to keep the coolant in place when you don't have a high-end drill press with an integral coolant pump and collection system. Get some modeling clay (dirt cheap, literally
), roll it into a rod shape, make a small dam around the area where you are drilling the hole, and fill the dam with your coolant. The coolant does it's job until you break through. Easy, cheap, and really makes drilling any tough material a WHOLE lot easier. Give it a try.
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From: Pensacola Florida
Stephen,
Do the buttons go in the depressions at each end of the leafs?
All,
I have used thread cutting oil and it helps a lot.
What kind of steel is the frame made of?
Do the buttons go in the depressions at each end of the leafs?
All,
I have used thread cutting oil and it helps a lot.
What kind of steel is the frame made of?
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Waynesville, OH
I found out the frames were made from a 1018 steel (low carbon steel). The quality control wasn't all that great, so the exact alloy carbon content varies quite a bit. The 1018 steel alloy can be hardened slightly, but not too much. It's just a little better than what used to be called "bridge steel" or "mild steel" - about the same stuff they make garbage cans out of.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Iowa
"It's just a little better than what used to be called "bridge steel" or "mild steel" - about the same stuff they make garbage cans out of."
Must be high end garbage cans because our frames seem to be WAY better quality than 70s-80s steel used for frames. At least when it comes to corrosion resistance anyway. Bumpers falling off, idler arms tearing out of the frame, frames rusting completely through in a little over 10 years. My 53 frame isn't even pitted (admittedly I don't know where it spent most of the last 50 years for sure) Any idea what they used for steel during that wonderful time when the Big 3 was trying to go out of business George?
Must be high end garbage cans because our frames seem to be WAY better quality than 70s-80s steel used for frames. At least when it comes to corrosion resistance anyway. Bumpers falling off, idler arms tearing out of the frame, frames rusting completely through in a little over 10 years. My 53 frame isn't even pitted (admittedly I don't know where it spent most of the last 50 years for sure) Any idea what they used for steel during that wonderful time when the Big 3 was trying to go out of business George?
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From: Waynesville, OH
Well, a buddy at Chrysler helped me with some of the historical info since we are doing a lot of material testing for the ASP (Auto-Steel Partnership) at the university. I suspect the difference you mentioned has a more to do with the thickness or construction of the frames, or maybe the amount of salt on the roads. At any rate, there has been no INTENTIONAL change in the steel alloys used for common truck frames, at least by the big three, until the last decade or so. The changes in the last decade have very little to do with corrosion - they are mostly strength and damage tolerance modifications so the vehicle can be lighter and have improved fuel economy. That's the best info I have at this point.
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From: Iowa
George
I switched gears on you there. When I was talking about bumpers falling off in the street. I was actually referring to fullsize Oldsmobiles, Malibus, LTDs and such. It very well could have been construction but the frames were just trash. You could poke a screwdriver through the frame long before the drivetrain was shot. Road salt isn't news around here since before I was born. Anyway, ask somebody if you ever get a chance someday. I'm curious.
I switched gears on you there. When I was talking about bumpers falling off in the street. I was actually referring to fullsize Oldsmobiles, Malibus, LTDs and such. It very well could have been construction but the frames were just trash. You could poke a screwdriver through the frame long before the drivetrain was shot. Road salt isn't news around here since before I was born. Anyway, ask somebody if you ever get a chance someday. I'm curious.
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From: Pensacola Florida
Frames?
Now that we are talking about frames I have a question. It seems to me that the frame on my 57 is fairly flexible. Not nearly as rigid as I would have thought. I also have discovered that directly over the rear axle my frame has been bowed out between the top and bottom flats. I assume this was from bottoming out. It is just the verticle section and if you string it the top and bottom are still straight front to back. I have plans to box the inside rails and will _____ the outside rails back verticle. Please fill in the blank. Is it ok to massage it with a hammer and then drop a plate on the inside of the channel to reinforce it or?????????? If I did install the inside plate (down in the channel) I would still box the frame. Any suggestions?
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From: Pensacola Florida
New post started!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It is done and I can get my spring buttons. My friend has a 5/16 punch but not a 3/8 but I figure that it will be easy to drill the last 1/16th.
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