Hey guys my truck is a 2000 f250 4x4 . Completely stock 7.3 with just over 300k. I’m wanting to put new injectors in and looking for recommendations on injectors as I’m sure improvement have been made in 20 years. BUT! I’m not looking to go racing! Only planned mods are maybe a 4” exhaust ebv delete and new turbo wheel with the exhaust housing. Just looking for a little more power, and fuel mileage . Like I said this engine has had no mods in 20 years and it’s done me well. Just down on boost and power, but mechanically engine is fine just time for some tlc. Thanks.

 

Stock injectors (AD) are a split shot design which is unique to the Ford trucks vs. this engine being used in school buses, dump trucks, etc. where single shot injectors were used. Ford used split shot as a means to try to quiet the engine. So, you're fairly well limited to split shot injectors unless you get a tuner allowing you to run custom tunes for single shot injectors which is what mos of us do. There is a great deal on the subject that can be found searching in this forum. Whichever route you choose, my advice is to run new instead of reman. injectors if you plan to keep the truck a long time.

Welcome to FTE! I spent a couple years in Lafayette in the late 80's and enjoyed my time there.

 

I will replace mine with AD's when the time comes. There was some discussion about adding 30% nozzles and getting all you could ask for with minimal extra work and tuning. @cleatus12r is the guy who knows.

 

I don't know that I would start by replacing the injectors unless the truck was not starting right. You might be down on power because of lower fuel pressure which could be as simple as a new pump or pressure regulator, (or both).

A lot of guys I think end up replacing the injectors when the o-rings need done, which can cause blue smoke and oil consumption when the engine is cold, but otherwise the injectors are still working "okay". There is also a shim kit sold on Ebay for not too much that can bring them back into tolerance and working a little better that can be used. Otherwise, I like the factory AC injectors and plan on swapping a set of those into mine at some point. They are single shot and a small power upgrade over the stock AD's. It does require a tune or PCM flash to run them properly however.

I might be tempted to do something about those old headlights

 

I too will go with new Alliant AD (stock split shot) injectors when the time comes. They are currently at 255,000 miles and with the turbo setup I have they haul a 12,000 lbs trailer cross country and up a grade just fine. I originally was dead set on 160/80 single shot injectors, but no longer see the need for those to satisfy the goals and use of my truck.

 

Stick with your current injectors and upgrade the turbo. You can go with a bolt in GTP38R which will give you more power and better fuel mileage. I would also upgrade the up-pipes to bellowed while your doing this with your exhaust. You should also install an Overboost Code Regulator so the PCM doesn't defuel based on your higher boost.

A tuner with a mild tune will also give you the seat of your pants feel that you are looking for.

 

Thanks guys , been leaning towards stock injectors and y’all confirmed my decision . I will check fuel pressure as I’ve been needing to do that. My up pipes don’t appear to be leaking but while it’s down I’ll probably replace them. Would like more info on that turbo upgrade though. 👍

 

If it were me I would start with the cheap and easy stuff. Pull the stock airbox out and get the Riff-raff 6637 kit with the blue Donaldson filter. Get a straight through turbo muffler like a Walker and have an exhaust shop weld that into place. There is an exact part number floating around here somewhere. The rest of the exhaust is not that big of a restriction for a mostly stock truck and the 4" downpipes can have annoying fitment issues if they aren't bent just right. Consider also an Edge Insight CTS2 for sensor monitoring. Love mine.I aded EGT recently and plan to add fuel pressure also, but you can watch turbo boost and other useful data right off the PCM by plugging it into the OBD port without doing anything else.

 

And by the way I’m only getting about 15 psi max boost for some reason.

 

Yeah that is kind of a slipperly slope with the turbo stuff. I would be tempted to advise you to just go straight to a T4 turbo kit if you plan to do all that stuff anyway (turbo, uppipes, EBPV delete, blank pedestal), since all of that gets accomplished anyway with the T4 swap. In fact you might just leave the stock intake and exhaust alone as well since all that gets reworked as well. Just trying to prevent you from spending money twice.

Depends how crazy you want to get with it but lots of people here have been down that path, sometimes more than once.

 

That is about right for stock

 

That is why I suggested the Overboost Code Regulator. At 15-18 PSI the PCM will start defueling and you will not get anymore boost. The MAP Sensor is feeding the PCM, so a regulator is installed and the PCM never sees more than 15 psi and will not defuel. Tuners remove this, but you would still get a CEL. The OCR eliminates the code.

 

IIRC, stock Max Boost is 16 PSI.

Good looking truck!

 

Fix any low boots issues first, you might be happy with just that. Anything to add more power will probably cause transmission issues too.

If you are not into putting a bunch of money in it than stick with stock everything. The only recommendation was mentioned above of the 6637 filter (or some better
cold air filter like S&B, stick with paper media). Then get that muffler out, it is a large restriction, use the long FTE resonator as it gets rid of the drone that
you will experience with that shell on the back (I leaned from experience that those shells amplify the exhaust tones). Those two will get you a bit more power and
a bit more mileage, but you will probably never recover the cost of them in fuel savings or cause damage to the trans.

Now intake and exhaust mods cause more inside noise/drone. Even the S&B had to have some foam added because it caused some resonating noise in the
fender area because it draws some air from there. 6637 is worse. Just be aware of that. The stock filter housing on a 2000 has a tendancy to leak because of cracked or missing
retaining clips. One from a 2001 would be better, but with that an aftermarket is even better.

 

If he is going to remain at stock power levels....the Ford AIS is the clear choice....all in my opinion though.