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Off topic but If you’re doing all the rest of that stuff and haven’t done it already get you some bellowed up pipes, intake boots, plenum inserts, etc for the rebuild. I know I was losing a ton of boost from my up pipes.
^ +2 New is the way to go, but remans from lets say Rosewood diesel will work too. If I ever get a set of injectors it's going to be new Alliant injectors and Clay at Riffraff has the best price on them on the web.
You can save money on remans from some of the injector rebuild shops but if you have the money new is always a safer bet no matter what the part is. factory assembled parts will have tighter tolerances and remans are kind of a roll of the dice based on who did the work.
Ok I’ll be the first to say new 160/80’s injectors. Along with some other up keep items like bellowed up pipes and an s&b air intake. A good tuner and you will be
very happy. That’s just my opinion but if you are looking for a little more power but nothing crazy that would be the way I would go. Also have you updated your transmission cooler?
Ok I’ll be the first to say new 160/80’s injectors. Along with some other up keep items like bellowed up pipes and an s&b air intake. A good tuner and you will be
very happy. That’s just my opinion but if you are looking for a little more power but nothing crazy that would be the way I would go. Also have you updated your transmission cooler?
@cjfarm11 , your opinion and advice is what makes the FTE a great place to ask questions. The thread creator will receive different opinions and opinions based on real world and first hand experience.
If we all came on here and said the same thing simply for regurgitation sake, then we would lose the value that we as a community have worked so hard to obtain.
Ok I’ll be the first to say new 160/80’s injectors. Along with some other up keep items like bellowed up pipes and an s&b air intake. A good tuner and you will be
very happy. That’s just my opinion but if you are looking for a little more power but nothing crazy that would be the way I would go. Also have you updated your transmission cooler?
Yes, 160/80 injectors will wake up the truck. There's going to be a dial-in period with the tuner to get things set where you want them to be. The stock systems can handle those injectors but if you have tired components (e.g. HPOP, fuel pump) they may start to show their age a little more and need some attention. Everybody's experiences are different so it could be plug-and-play for you, or be a bit of an adjustment period, or something longer (like I had). The single shots will turn your truck from a mule to a bull power-wise (depending on supporting upgrades) but it will not make it that much quicker.
I don't regret my decision to go to single shots but I was going more towards 'beefcake' than 'just a little more' (plus CA limits me on aftermarket/upgrades if I still want to pass emissions testing for CA registration).
It's strictly my opinion but if I was looking for a 'just little bit more' than stock my recommendation would be 6.0 transmission cooler, rebuild your turbo with a billet compressor wheel, 4" exhaust, Ford AIS (or 6637 if you're on a budget), Hydra tuner (try out the 'free' PHP tunes before buying any others), and new...
Don't underestimate the potential power loss from the up-pipes. Mine OEM units with 200K miles had no indication of leaking before I replaced them with bellowed units, but I also discovered that the OEM donut gaskets were completely GONE, as in NOT THERE. The completely sealed bellowed up-pipes woke even ME up! I had never even heard my turbo "whistle" before the new up-pipes, and I could definitely feel some additional power in my seat-of-the-pants meter!
F250 that is a great point and I totally agree with out. The OP’s mileage is certain to compound the issue of worn out up pipes. Get those fixed and life is good.
That is why I suggested the Overboost Code Regulator. At 15-18 PSI the PCM will start defueling and you will not get anymore boost. The MAP Sensor is feeding the PCM, so a regulator is installed and the PCM never sees more than 15 psi and will not defuel. Tuners remove this, but you would still get a CEL. The OCR eliminates the code.
Defuel and SES light happen at about 24psi.
The OCR is only needed with poor aftermarket tuning. A stock truck is not capable of that much boost. Good tuners are able to disable overboost codes and defueling.
Up-pipes and boost leaks are the biggest power and MPG killers I see in these trucks. The up-pipes WILL leak after turbo removal in the unlikely event they aren’t leaking now.
Stock and Stage 1 (160/0) reman injectors are the same price. The difference is you’ll need a chip/tunes and at least EGT gauge to run the Stage 1’s.
There is nothing wrong with stock intake, turbo and exhaust.
Stock air filter is fine. It filters well and flows more than adequate for stock or mild injectors. But, it is prone to being put together wrong or being broken and letting dirt in the engine. I’ve put a lot of 6637 filters in because of this.
Stock turbo and compressor wheel are also perfect for stock injectors. No reason for upgraded housings or even compressor wheel - especially with stock tuning. I DIY delete EBPV for about $1.00 in parts to increase reliability/eliminate this failure point.
There is no measurable improvement from altering the stock exhaust on a truck with stock tuning. A muffler delete or Walker-type will lower EGT a little and can help make a couple psi more boost on a tuned truck.
Most injector swaps I do get Stage 1’s. With good tuning, this CAN provide almost 2x stock power without any real downsides. I’ve been using Unlimited Diesel Performance injectors for awhile now. Lifetime warranty. I haven’t had an issue yet.
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