have all new lines, calipers breaks and master cylinder, how ever can not get it to stop spooting air. yes master was bleed. everything seems to point to Proportioning Valve but I can not find any info on how to bleed it, only one that has a release valve, well this one has no release valve. So any help for how to bleed the system would be great. there should be a pic of the type I have. Thank you.

 

Where does it shoot air out?

 

through the valve in the caliper, when being bleed. will not get a solid flow just air air air air air.

 

Is has to be coming in somewhere. Are you using a hose on the bleeder?

 

vacuum pump, if it was a leak in the line I would have fluid dripping somewhere. only thing I can not find is how to bleed the proportioning valve. I need to know how that is set to be bleed.

 

Many possibilities, usually people don't get the master bled like they think they do. I just did my whole system today as a matter of fact. I rebuilt the master and it took about 20 minutes of SLOWLY stroking the cylinder in a vise. Use the fittings and hoses held into the reservoir with clothes pins. Do not pump fast, let the air bubbles dissipate from the fluid or they can gather into a larger air bubble later. Keep the hoses clothespinned to the cover bail above the reservoir while installing and then get the lines attached and tweeked tight BEFORE the reservoir(s) empty.

I changed the 3 rubber hoses and rear wheel cylinders so my whole system was pretty much empty. After attaching the master lines leave the lid ajar or off and keep the reservoir(s) full and open all 4 bleeders and gravity bleed until dripping, then close bleeders. Have wife stroke the brake pedal ONE stroke at a time starting with the right rear wheel first, then left rear, then right front and finally left front. Do not pump the brake pedal at any time during this process, just open bleeder, straight down with pedal, close bleeder, let pedal up and allow 5 to 10 seconds before bleeding it again. Once you get a solid, bubble free stream you're done at that wheel. If you let the master run out, start from scratch by bleeding the master again. If you pump the pedal you run the risk of aerating the fluid and you'll just have to let it sit for hours or days and try bleeding all over again.

If you're drawing air into the system, look for a cracked line flare from improper flare or overtightened fitting nut. Good luck !!

 

No need to bleed the proportioning valve separately, will be bled by doing all 4 wheels.

 

My system was also completely drained as new calipers, wheel cyl., rubber hoses and lines.
I started with gravity bleed then use a Snap-On vacuum bleeder that uses shop air the the pump and hold.
All that and the pedal was for crap, it stopped but was really low.
Only way I got the pedal good was to use a pressure bleeder. The rears had just a little air in them I could not remove if not for the pressure bleeder.
Dave ----

 

Vacuum pumps do not work well bleeding brakes. The threads on the bleeder valve are where you are getting air. If you want to try this, take the bleeder out and put some teflon tape on the threads and screw it back in. See if that helps get rid of the air. Finding someone to press on the pedal while you are out at the wheels is the best way to bleed them.