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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

air in brake lines

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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 07:51 AM
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air in brake lines

Hello, I have 1955 f100 8.8 ford rear disc/ chrysler front disc,corvette dual m/s 7 inch booster 2ld rediual valves front and back, proportion valve rear Now heres my problem I have hose attached to bleeder valve in jar of brake fluid pump brakes and I get bubbles 2/3 times then no bubbles let set go back more bubbles again can't get full pedal checked all over for leaks can't find any it seems to be getting air back in system after bleeding. would bad m/s cause this Thanks Michael
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 09:42 AM
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I would try the old style 2 man brake bleed. Have someone work the pedal while you crack the bleeders. Have the person on the pedal really press hard so you get a strong flow out all bleeders one at a time. Sometimes I have seen air trapped in a high spot in a line, and this is the only way to purge it short of a pressure bleeder.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 10:34 AM
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A bad master cylinder could cause that, not bench bleeding the master cylinder before installation could cause that, but most likely, you're sucking air from some connection, somewhere. Are you getting air from all the wheels, or a particular one? My best advice would be to start from the beginning, go for the basics, and double and triple check the entire system. And if you didn't bench bleed the m/c, do that first. Good luck, and let us know what you find.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 04:25 PM
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Are you bleeding your brakes because you installed something new?
For example, did you "correctly" bleed the MC then the proportioning valve and then the brake lines.
What did you do to make you need to bleed the brakes?
 
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Old Aug 25, 2010 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Daytona F1
Are you bleeding your brakes because you installed something new?
For example, did you "correctly" bleed the MC then the proportioning valve and then the brake lines.
What did you do to make you need to bleed the brakes?
Yes I bench bleed m/c installed residual valves is why I had to redue lines I know you'all are going to think I am crazy ( I stopped drinking after my 1st heart attack ) but I took truck down road 1/3 pedal parked back in driveway sat 1hr went to pull back in garage had full pedal ???? jacked up to make sure wheels weren't locked up and they turned fine????
 
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Old Aug 29, 2010 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cookieman69
Yes I bench bleed m/c installed residual valves is why I had to redue lines I know you'all are going to think I am crazy ( I stopped drinking after my 1st heart attack ) but I took truck down road 1/3 pedal parked back in driveway sat 1hr went to pull back in garage had full pedal ???? jacked up to make sure wheels weren't locked up and they turned fine????
I think I have discovered part of my problem after 2 days pedal went back to 1/3 drove it down the road again went a little further this time and brakes started dragging got more pedal longer I drove soon had to stop and let brakes cool I HAD CHECKED CLEARANCE ON BOOSTER M/C TO MAKE SURE ADJUSTED RIGHT i HAVE 2 INCH EXCAUST THAT RUNS BETWEEN BOOSTER M/C AND FRAME i HAVE ABOUT 2-3 INCH CLEARANCE WONDER IF i AM GETTING HEAT FROM PIPES EXSPANDING BRAKE FLUID ???? ANYONE ELSE RAN INTO THIS PROBLEM THANKS MICHAEL
 

Last edited by cookieman69; Aug 29, 2010 at 06:17 PM. Reason: no responce need to post again
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 09:04 AM
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Sounds like your master cylinder piston isn't retracting far enough to open the little holes and allow the brake fluid to flow back into the master cylinder reservoir. Probably just need to adjust the pedal linkage. Could also be a problem with the booster not fully retracting or incorrect (too long) rod connecting booster to master cylinder.
 
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