Hi Everyone,
I am pretty new here, and I recently bought a 1977 f150 with a 351m engine. This truck is awesome. I've done a bunch of work to it already, and I'm now onto the oil pan, as it has a stripped plug thread, and the gasket leaks. I've read the Haynes manual on how this is done, and watched a few videos as well. I will be replacing the pump and pick up tube as well. Can anyone give me any tips, or do's and don'ts on this procedure? Also I'm contemplating changing out the main bearings while the pan is off. Is this a good idea?, or not?
Thanks Much,
Bob Lemay

 

Wow nice truck.

Why? Because might as well while you are in there. Does the motor have good oil pressure? If it does the pump is working fine, if not this bandaid won't buy you much time.
Bad idea! Don't touch the bearings unless you're pretty much set on doing a complete rebuild, you won't help anything matter of fact you might just guarantee premature engine failure. If the engine has good oil pressure the main bearings are good, if it doesn't it needs a rebuild.

 

Thanks for the compliment and response to my question Paul. Yes, the pump and tube replacement will be done because I'll be right in there, and seeing that I've only owned the truck for a couple of months now, I have no history on it whatsoever. Can't hurt I guess. The oil pressure is pretty good from a cold start, but I'm only using the factory gauge for reference. It'll go up about 3/4 for the first 15 or 20 mins of driving, but then drops off to about an 1/8" off the L end. It's still in the normal range, I just wish it could be a bit higher. Concerning the bearing question, and with all due respect to your answer, why do you think it's a bad idea? I only ask because I've asked many people about this subject and procedure, and I've come up with about a 50/50 split on it. Anyway, thanks again, Bob

 

I've never heard of that. to not swap bearings this way. I had an old BB Chevy Sub. with low oil pressure. I dropped the pan and found the rod bearings were somewhat worn. I bought a new set and installed them.
Idle hot oil pressure went from 5-10 psi to 30-35 psi and when going down the road it never dropped below 40 psi.
I found no other issues with this engine and it ran fine for years until I sold it.

 

Thanks Jim.
I've ordered both the main bearings and the rod bearings. I also ordered new bolts for the rod caps.
Bob

 

Pretty much need an accurate mechanical pressure gauge too, no?

 

You ordered the correct size bearings? Skip replacing the rod bolts. That should only be done with the rods out and with them being re sized.

 

Yes, I do have one that'll be installed first, before any work is done.

 

I ordered standard sized bearings. The bolts are the ARP 8740's. Again, and I say this with all due respect to your help and suggestions, I'm hearing about a 50/50 split on the bolt replacement, I just want to make sure it's done right. It's not a high performance engine by any means, I use the truck for almost daily driving, mostly highway.
Bob

 

How do you plan on installing new rod bolts without using a press to seat the shoulder. Do not attempt to seat any rod bolt by using the nut to pull the bolt through. The torque and initial stretch is crucial to the success of the ARP installation. You will be doing all that with the engine still installed?

 

Ok, that's the answer I've been looking for. I don't know enough about these engines to know it's just about impossible to get the bolt out. i do have the skill level to do this job, it's just very hard to find the answers to questions like these. I'll shelve the bolts till one day when the engines out for a full rebuild. now, would you use the new nuts or just stay with everything that's in there?
Bob

 

I would use the old nuts. Do not use the ARP nuts because you will be buying another kit.

 

ok will do.

 

I've replaced rod bolts in an assembled roller 5.0, but with the short block on an engine stand. Trying to do all this with the engine in the truck is nuts. Pull the engine out and put it on a stand. Laying on your back and trying to get all this done CORRECTLY (key word here) is an exercise in futility. Your chances of success doing all this is slim to none with no experience. And anyone with experience would never attempt this operation. I'm also with Conanski, with the need to replace the pump and pickup tube, it's not going to change anything. Pull the engine and then inspect the bottomend for wear before doing anything else.

 

thanks for the reply. It's not that I don't have experience with engines, just not ford engines. I only put the bolt question out here because I really didn't know that this operation couldn't be done properly, with the engine in. Questions like these, before you start into a project like this are very hard to find answers to, other than places like this great forum, after you make yourself look a bit naive, unexperienced and a bit dumb!. As far as the pump and pick up, I'll go ahead and change it out just because I'm in there, and I don't know if its the original or how old it is. The bearings look like a pretty straight forward procedure, I'll do them also after listening to more pros than cons on that procedure. Wish me luck.
Bob Lemay