I went through a 77 F100 a couple months ago, replacing the topend. In doing so, we had to drop the oil pan to remove the trash dropped in it, along with the bottom shaft collar off the original distributor. Just getting the pan off then back in place was something I wouldn't wish on anyone. We had to lift the engine as far as the transmission tunnel would allow, which was just enough to pull the pan after dropping the oil pump into the pan. Getting the mains and rods in place laying on your back (and getting them in correctly) is not a "pro" in my book. Especially working around the crossmember too. Forget ever getting the rod bolts done too.

 

I'll get that pan off, following the steps outlined in the manual, and also the pump and pick up tube. If then, I'm so frustrated by what it took to get that far, I'll get out from under it walk away for a day, then come back to assess how much further I want take it. If the crossmember is going to be a problem, I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. Forget the rod bolts as I said before, they'll be shelved for another day when the whole thing is out. I don't think that rolling in new bearings is a bad idea, i'll have them at the ready when I pull the caps, and if it makes sense to change them I will, upside down and on my back. I enjoy researching new ways to make things better, and taking steps to try to do these things, but I do have the good sense to say enough or stop when it's time. Again, wish me luck.
Bob

 

did you get it back together and running yet

 

Yes I did! It was quite an undertaking. The pan came right off, after I cut the exhaust down pipe off, I coupled it back on in the end. I pulled both the main bearings, and rods, one at a time, wrapped a piece of 1000g sandpaper around the journals, and polished them the best I could. I used plastigauge to check clearances, and they were on the large end of the service tolerance. Reinstalled the the main bearings by rolling them back in to the upper shell, the lower ones were easy into the removed bearing cap. The rods were easy, same procedure, but you can just push the piston up and out of the way to install the top, the lower is the same as the mains. Torqued everything back to spec, installed a high volume pump, welded and retapped the oil drain plug, and reinstalled the oil pan. Put it all back together, primed the oil pump, and she started right up. 70 lbs of initial pressure, then 30 lbs after warm up. I've now driven it a few hundred miles, with the oil pressure never dropping below 20. Before I did the work it was 0 at idle after a highway run. The bearings were all shot, down to copper on most. The crank was fair, some light scoring on some journals, good enough for the time being. I will at some point do a full rebuild on it, or just buy a new engine, but if it continues to run as well as it does now, it should be around for a while. I do reccomend that if you have low or no oil pressure at idle, like I did, go on youtube and search rolling in main or rod bearings, it not hard to do.
Merry Christmas,
Bob

 

thats good to hear, glad it worked out, and prolly a top 10 decent Christmas gift for ya, Merry Christmas

 

Yes Sir! ...Also put new upper and lower ball joints in, new wheel bearings, and a new drag and center link with heavy duty REMOVABLE ball joints in those. It's a kit called the "Clydesdale", from Wild Horses 4x4. Talk about heavy duty!! Check it out if you have a chance. Just got back from the alignment shop, and it's driving like a new truck!
Bob