Water pump torque specs
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: tucson
Water pump torque specs
I just replaced the 390 that is in my '64 F 250. I know it's not original to the truck. 
It's pretty basic. The block casting #, from what I remember, puts it around '67. What would the torque specs be for the pump mounting bolts and the fan bolts be?
Thanks for your help.
John
It's pretty basic. The block casting #, from what I remember, puts it around '67. What would the torque specs be for the pump mounting bolts and the fan bolts be?Thanks for your help.
John
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
More'n that for 3/8NC bolts. I'd go to 40-45, if an aftermarket aluminum pump, then I'd back off to 20-25 ft/lbs. (although I've never bothered using a torque wrench on these bolts) The fan bolts I use a 7/16 ratcheting box end wrench and get em tight as I can with that. Don't recall if the pump bolts go into the coolant jackets on the FE's but if they do, they need thread sealer.
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 3
More'n that for 3/8NC bolts. I'd go to 40-45, if an aftermarket aluminum pump, then I'd back off to 20-25 ft/lbs. (although I've never bothered using a torque wrench on these bolts) The fan bolts I use a 7/16 ratcheting box end wrench and get em tight as I can with that. Don't recall if the pump bolts go into the coolant jackets on the FE's but if they do, they need thread sealer.
~15-20 sounds more accurate.
1 or 2 bolts do need silicone.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
Ok, then explain why 3/8 rod bolts are torqued that spec. 15-25 is spec on 5/16 bolts. But all aside, these bolts don't need a torque wrench to tighten them
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 3
per Ford manual:
20-25 FE
17-27 FT
If you need the nuances of torque limits between different grades of bolts or those of different applications explained to you, I suggest you start a new thread or do research yourself. This thread OP was asking for torque specs.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I'm well aware of torque specs between grades of bolts. I certainly don't need you to explain it. He asked I gave. You want to start something again apparently.
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
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I did not start anything nor did I intend to. I posted correct torque specs from a Ford manual. The OP can do whatever he wants and so can you. Have a good evening.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
What do you call this ?
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 412
Likes: 3
You said to explain why 3/8" rod bolts use that spec. I.e. you wanted that explained in a thread with other purposes.
If you think me correcting your incorrect spec info is "starting something" then that is for you to deal with personally. Facts are facts.
The proper spec is what I posted. Nothing else matters.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 636
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From: down a red dirt road
You'll want to use thread tape or ptfe sealant as the bolt holes are just drilled thru into the cavity. I like using the copper gasket adhesive(spray) or the more classic gasket adhesive (I think it's called #1 or #2). I've used rtv as well. If so, put it together just snugly and then allow a few hours of dry time before final torquing. 20 ish ft lbs is enough. Any more will squeeze your gasket too much and possibly? warp the thin wall of the block there enough that it will cause it not to seal(or pull the threads). The bolts should have split-lock washers on them so you don't need much more past the point than them being compressed. After it gets ran a couple times re-check them with a wrench. They'll last longer than the pump will.
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