Manifold down pipe bolts
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,737
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From: South AR
I see some white where the exhaust manifold and the up pipe join. Did you use some kind of sealant when you mated the two together? I was thinking of using some exhaust paste there. Thinking of using a very thine amount to fill any imperfections or pits. Was not going to slather it on because of a concern that a piece could brake off and travel into the turbo. Wha do you think?
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 4,667
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From: Muskogee, Ok
Camera flash reflecting off the flare at the end of the uppipe. I yook a wire brush to the manifold before the install to knock off the soot/rust. YMMV
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2007
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I have personally found it as a best practice when working on these collectors to just change the bolts out for new ones. More so with a grade 8 nut and bolt as well as some antisieze. They are so much easier to torque down, and you don't have to worry about stripping the heads off of them like the stock bolts. The size of the bolts for the Exhaust manifold to up-pipes is M8-1.25x60mm if I recall correctly. Also, if you install a lock washer, it makes it much easier to tighten them down when completing the final torqueing from the bolt side, because you won't need a back up wrench on the nut. This being because the space is so limited, that the length of the bolt will only allow you to feed the bolt in from one side, which in turn makes it that much more difficult to get a wrench on the nut itself. Another choice is to go with the Allen head grade 8 bolt as well. I've done this in the past and it worked fine too. Just sharing some experiences.
On Edit; Another helpful tip that I've discovered when installing the exhaust wrap, is to wrap the SS bandings with foil tape. It'll keep the sharp edges from slicing and dicing your fingers and hands when handling them on the install. The foil tape will stay in place and doesn't burn off, and even if it does fall off it was only there to keep your hands safe.
On Edit; Another helpful tip that I've discovered when installing the exhaust wrap, is to wrap the SS bandings with foil tape. It'll keep the sharp edges from slicing and dicing your fingers and hands when handling them on the install. The foil tape will stay in place and doesn't burn off, and even if it does fall off it was only there to keep your hands safe.
Last edited by countrycar; Oct 27, 2019 at 04:51 PM. Reason: spelling
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 496
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Well if I'm going to replace the up pipes and go with the new and improved model it looks like the turbo has to come off so I might as well do it all as I will eventually do anyway. Will do stainless pipes and wrap it. Wonder if anyone has ever tried to use the ceramic chimney insulation that wraps around the stainless chimney inserts. Self sticking and has a very high temp rating. Just a quick thought/ brain storm. Rebuild the turbo and ether do the Wicked Wheel 2 or the Batmo Compressor Wheel. Read some where that the Batmo Wheel will add 100 hp and the Wicked wheel just balances out turbo lag. Seems a bit much but I will investigate it and there has to be a bunch of info here on FTE. Next the pedestal rebuild or EBPV delete. Got to see advantages of that too. Also planing to do exhaust braking. BD 1030750 Stock EBPV Exhaust Brake kit. Last is some kind of performance chip upgrade for towing. Don't know how all that works together yet but got all winter to figure it out. Of course any incite now is welcomed.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2019
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For sure. My dream trip some day. Use to do Erie a lot. I live 3 minutes from Mosquito Lake in Ohio. When I have "time" I go there.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2017
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From: Muskogee, Ok
If the chimney insulation is rated to 1300* maayybe. I've never made a fire that hot from wood tho, so doubt it's rated high enough for the 1200* of continuous temps our uppipes can see. Header wrap will definately hold up to the heat.
Batmowheel is a pretty old tech one. Very heavy and takes a while and high rpm to spool up. The 4+4, 5+5 are pretty popular and light weight. As mentioned 100hp from just a compressor wheel is highly unlikely without other mods contributing to the bulk of the gain. Even stock injectors can only be pushed by tuning to add an extra 60-80 hp, assuming everything else is in top condition to support them
Batmowheel is a pretty old tech one. Very heavy and takes a while and high rpm to spool up. The 4+4, 5+5 are pretty popular and light weight. As mentioned 100hp from just a compressor wheel is highly unlikely without other mods contributing to the bulk of the gain. Even stock injectors can only be pushed by tuning to add an extra 60-80 hp, assuming everything else is in top condition to support them
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2019
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WESLEY GREEN
To answer your question there are different temperature ratings for the ceramic chimney wrap. I knew they were high but here is one for 2300 degrees on amazon.
To answer your question there are different temperature ratings for the ceramic chimney wrap. I knew they were high but here is one for 2300 degrees on amazon.
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