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Does anyone have experience with changing springs in points distributors? My truck isn't getting it's fuel quite burned before exhaust valves open. Now I realize elecrtonic is better, but humour me as I always take the long way home. I am thinking of using some donor springs out of old distributors, and am in need of some guidance. I get the basic theory I just would like a bit of predictability. Thanks.
I was able to install one lite spring last night and gained alot but I need one more as I only had that one lite spring from my old distributors. Can anyone tell me what happens if you bend the spring tabs in to ease tension? Should the lite springs be equal tension?
Mr. Gasket Part number 925D. Should have all the timing in around 2500. Costs about 5 bucks. Check the catalog to ensure the number gave you is correct.
351Power, check out the link below. They explain it all real good. I don't think it'll hurt to bend the spring tabs as long as the sring is'nt flpping around. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ng/index.shtml
Clint
Bending the Spring tabs doesn't work. Ive been that route. I just stretched the spring a little. The stock spring is just long enough to not flop around in there. What resulted was my engine started to gain timing all on its own and was revving up to 2200 all by itself. Get the lighter springs. It will make you happy. The crane version seems nicer than the Mr. Gasket as there are more springs to play with. Thanks for that article 71. It is a good one.
Thanks for that guys. Do you suppose that changing to a warmer thermostat [now I have a 160] would also help? I thought a hotter cylinder might burn fuel faster.
Yes, I would get a 195 thermostat. I run one in my truck and it runs much better than with the 160 I had. Your engine will also last longer. The amount of cylinder wear is much greater at 160 degrees than 195.