I have 3 different Krown dealers in a reasonable distance ... 2 are in Windsor and one north of Detroit. I'll have to see what the prices are and then I get to figure in the exchange rate (in my favor) to decide where to go. I'm betting Windsor will win. Good thing we have enhanced licenses.

 

It’s not easy.
When it’s below freezing for more than a month and you’re driving every day, rinsing off is not possible.

 

I don't know about Krown but Fluid Film will eventually wash off. I put a heavy coating on them get it covered with dust and grime which helps it stay in place. If you feel your need to wash the coated parts (I usually don't) just use low pressure to get the heavy debris off and call it good.

I really only give the undercarriage a good washing twice a year (spring and fall) when I reapply the FF and I've have excellent results this way. If I get some heavy mud or a thick coating of salt on the parts I'll rinse with the garden hose but that's it.

 

I live in Central Iowa and travel all around the upper Midwest. I am not an Amsoil user in terms of motor oil, but I do use some niche products and they make very good product, the HD Metal Protector, that is a very good rustproofing spray. I use it each fall on my commercial trucks and such. It dries so it doesn't attract and hold dirt. Comes in an aerosol can and is convenient and easy to apply.

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Aluminum does not rust in salt, it dissolves .

thankfully you can pretreat with “saltaway” which will leave a protective coating and during the snow season you can effectively wash the salt off with follow up saltaway cleaning.

fluid film is great for export iron surfaces like the threads on tie rods as well as drive shafts and universal joints .

one problem with going crazy and power spraying a protective coating on everything is that it will get into your electrical connections and create gremlins that will be hard to find.

 

I live in NJ and Im the guy salting the roads and plowing them. I rinse my vehicles after every snow event. Even if the water is freezing on the body. All the salting equipment is stainless but there are some non stainless parts, and of course electrical. I have a hopper style salt spreader with a Honda gas motor for power. There are a spaghetti bowl full of wires and micro connections inside the engine compartment. They get all salted up every use. I not only rinse but spray them heavily with WD-40. The whole engine compartment looks like crap with oil oozing everywhere... but no major problems since 2010 with that unit. The steel mason dump body though is another story. No matter that its been rinsed religiously its still turning to lace.
I ran my 2007 GMC 2500 for 12 years before buying my Lariat. I rinsed the salt every day I drove in it. But there are areas where two sheets of metal are spot welded and rinsing gets water between the gaps which doesnt dry out for extended periods. In year 11 I saw my first paint bubble. By year 12 the one wheel well had 20 bubbles and rust holes showing.
Steel or aluminum will be effected by salt. I ran Peterbilts for 25 years. All aluminium bodies. They did very well in the salt but in some places eventually some paint came off showing the white powder underneath. You can clean that and polish it out and it will stop.
The electrical connections under these SDs is a problem well documented here. You need to unplug them and dielectric grease the hell out of them. I imagine every year at least.
I also see some guys questioning the durability of the boxed frame as salt will get into the frame and you wont be able to effectively rinse it out. Some guys are talking about the salt away products which can be sprayed inside. Its almost November so Im thinking about doing that myself. I will likely spray one of these products everywhere underneath this month or next.
I Had a 1995 Yukon and I would wipe grease anywhere I saw rust or an opening where water could intrude. I sold it with 156,000 miles and the only rust was a small amount of bubbling along the bottom of the tailgate.
I like to keep trucks 10 years or longer. My biggest fear with this SD is the complexity of electrical and computer BS. I simply dont believe it will be worth keeping any vehicle 20 years like you might have in the past.
The old farmers around here used to wrap the springs and other frame parts with rags. Every oil change they sprayed the rags with the used oil. I looked at a 47 International for sale a few years ago and it was shocking how fresh the frame and springs were after 50 plus years. Im thinking the salt away products may be a modern interpretation of that.
One last thought pertaining to one of the posts above about humidity... some areas with dirt roads would spray calcium chloride on the dirt in summer to keep down the dust. The calcium pulls moisture right out of the air. So if theres calcium hiding on your truck it will rust. If you leave a 5 gallon pail with calcium crystals in it, in a few months it will be filled with water....
No matter what you do somethings going to corrode. Everything you can do just do. I always buy and care for everything like Im going to keep it forever. Never do but it helps with resale value at the very least.

 

look at the rusty nail demo

You Tube