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Need for rustproofing?

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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 11:29 AM
  #1  
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Need for rustproofing?

I ordered a new 2019 F250 XL to be delivered soon. I will probably keep it at least 10 years. Live/drive/plow in Wisconsin. I've been looking into the need to undercoat and rustproof new cars but popular opinion seems mixed. Many don't bother anymore because they lease, others say newer trucks are made with galvanized metals and high-tech coating/paint systems so they don't corrode like they used to, and those who do usually go for the annual treatment. Not a whole lot of retail options here in rural WI---the closest Zeibart is 2 hrs away and takes 2 days for a cost of $900. LineX is another option but is about $1,600. Ford uses the "electro" rust-proofing process which I have ruled out. I'm considering a "rubber" undercoat (3M product or equivalent) because I'm not one to take time and redo an oil-based undercoat product every year or two, and would probably go with a wax-based for the inside of panels, etc. I don't have access to a lift but am a seasoned DIYer so if anyone has any solid advice on DIY F250 rustproofing please advise. OR should I not worry about it at all?
Thanks,
RF
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 04:41 PM
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The bodies are all aluminum so no need to worry about rust there. The only thing I did when I got my new truck a couple of months ago is get under it and paint any bare steel, like the front driveshaft, the yoke coming out of the transfer case, the bracket for all of the hoses coming out of the rear diff, just anything you can find. The frame has a nice coating on it, check for where it is scratched off.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 05:13 PM
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Don't use the rubberized undercoating, it will get small chips and tears that trap moisture and cause worse corrosion.

Aluminum doesn't rust like steel but it still corrodes, just in a different way.

I sprayed everything under my truck with fluid film just like I have with my all steel vehicles and we'll keep doing that. Also, you have to remember there is still allot of steel parts under the truck that will rust.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 05:24 PM
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go online, you can get a gallon of fluid film and a spray gun and shoot about 8 trucks per gallon.

I spend a morning and line them all up and shoot them all with the gun once a year.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 06:36 PM
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Fluid Film or Krown are good. Definitely not rubberized for the reason already mentioned.

Oil-like rust prevention like fluid film or krown along with regular rinsing underneath will keep the truck in good shape for 20 years or so. From what I've seen in person and read on this site I believe it's worth it. Salt will eventually cause electrical gremlins that will drive you nuts around the 20 year mark.

I like a moisture displacer like WD 40 in the door, tailgate, and hood seams. It won't trap dirt but it will displace moisture and keep these areas from rusting.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 07:24 PM
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Just got my 2017 Krown rust controlled for the 3rd time. Only have them do the chassis underneath. Up here in southern Ontario its half the price for the aluminum trucks ($75 Cdn. rather than $140) . Do it every year. The oil drips for about a week so if you can keep it off the driveway great. If you do park it on an asphalt driveway it does fade and wash off the driveway in a couple of months. It will not eat into the driveway. I am sure the rodents are too happy that the truck has been Krowned either..
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 07:52 PM
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rust proof

Not sure if there's anything you can do to make something 100% oxidation free. Like everyone's mentioned already, the 2017+ Super Duty has an all aluminum body. You're only problem with be the frame/carriage area. If it were me, I'd go with a spray on liquid at the beginning of the season. You could do some undercarriage cleaning now and then with a pressure washer/car wash for maintenance until the season is over. Then just keep up on the occasional full blown car wash to keep her shiny and new!
 

Last edited by PackerBacker_TX; Oct 17, 2019 at 07:53 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 08:13 PM
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I will be doing the krown soon. Should I have the whole truck done or just the frame. They drill holes and do the doors and get all the knooks and crannies. I have a 2017 truck. I thought of not having them do the doors and pretty much leave it to the underbody and chassis. Thoughts?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ncl
I will be doing the krown soon. Should I have the whole truck done or just the frame. They drill holes and do the doors and get all the knooks and crannies. I have a 2017 truck. I thought of not having them do the doors and pretty much leave it to the underbody and chassis. Thoughts?
I'd do it all, it's not going to hurt anything and could possibly help in the long run.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 05:21 AM
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no drilling holes The Alum. is already a softer metal.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 05:46 AM
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I live in SC so I dont know much about the issues salt causes. But I'm curious. Does a product like Krown or Fluid film allow you to rinse the under carriage after treatment for a limited number of times before reapplication or is it good for the season regardless the number of rinses?

W.T.F.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by senix
no drilling holes The Alum. is already a softer metal.

I think the doors are already filled with goop anyhow. Are the cab corners plastic as well? I thought I saw that they were. Dang place is 1.5 hours away maybe I'll just do fluid film and do the underbody and frame myself.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 08:26 AM
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I wouldn't touch the body at all. Just the undercarriage, focusing mostly on the frame. Colorado uses Magnesium Chloride. It won't rot steel like traditional road salt, but it can be harsh otherwise. I get my vehicles washed as soon as the roads are clear after a snowstorm. That has worked well.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by HRTKD
I wouldn't touch the body at all. Just the undercarriage, focusing mostly on the frame. Colorado uses Magnesium Chloride. It won't rot steel like traditional road salt, but it can be harsh otherwise. I get my vehicles washed as soon as the roads are clear after a snowstorm. That has worked well.
I live in NW Ohio and they use the brine a lot and salt. For the time i would have in it to take it to the rustproofer and cost I can do my truck a few times and be ahead. They want 150 to do a truck. 1.5hrs one way to get there. I'll have 5-6 hrs wrapped up in it.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 11:35 AM
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As long as there's chloride ions present, rust will occur (unless the humidity is zero). It doesn't matter if it's magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium chloride, etc. These are all "salt"; sodium chloride is "table salt" and "softener salt". It's chloride that facilitates electron transfer from iron and aluminum (i.e. corrosion).

The good news is that it's very easy to rinse off...don't need hot water, soap, or pressure water. All you need is a garden hose and running water. After a rinse, the truck may still look dirty but the chloride ions will be gone...assuming you hit all the nooks and crannies.

BTW, brine is water that has all the salt that it can dissolve...it just helps the salt stick on the road where needed instead of bouncing and blowing away.
 
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