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4r100 help

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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 12:49 PM
  #1  
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4r100 help

I’ll try to keep this condensed, but I would really appreciate any and all help. I have done a lot of old forum reading but I need some advice.

long story short my 2003 f250 with 201,000 miles was shifting kind of long in lower gears, and then one day my OD light was flashing sometimes (I would go a day without it flashing and then a day later I would drive to work and it would flash). I replaced the VSS and it stopped for like 2 days then flashed again.

I took it to a shop that said I have a 1-2 and 2-3 shift error. They reset the codes. And then drove it and re-ran the codes and said it only showed a 2-3 shift error. They suggested a new solenoid pack and I said while your in there let’s put a John wood valve body.

will these things fix my issue? I read it can also be the PCM at fault, but I don’t know I feel like there could be a bunch of different reasons and I don’t want to spend money on a new solenoid pack and valve body only to have the issues persist.

Any advice?

additionally, sometimes at around 60MPH I will give it a good amount of gas and my RPMs don’t move and it’s like I’m almost in neutral. Can this be linked to the same issues? Or is this likely a fuel issue? I have been meaning to do the hutch and harpoon mods I’m sure my in tank filters are black

thanks guys I really appreciate any help
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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I'll give you a bump up, and maybe Mark K will see this. Do you have the actual dtc codes? If not, see if you can get them and post them up.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jsludlum2
additionally, sometimes at around 60MPH I will give it a good amount of gas and my RPMs don’t move and it’s like I’m almost in neutral. Can this be linked to the same issues? Or is this likely a fuel issue? I have been meaning to do the hutch and harpoon mods I’m sure my in tank filters are black

Any advice?
My advice is to fix this before doing ANYTHING to the transmission. If the engine isn't make the power it should, the shifts are going to be wrong. You can set those codes due to a bad running engine.

I'd start with new fuel filters and see if that helps all of the problems.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by stinson 108-1
I'll give you a bump up, and maybe Mark K will see this. Do you have the actual dtc codes? If not, see if you can get them and post them up.
thanks man, yeah I was secretly hoping Mark would see this haha. I don’t have the code(s) right now but I will ask the shop for them/it this afternoon.

I guess I could take this post to mention I have a PCP Hydra tuner that the last owner put on. I have it set to “00” tune which I have assumed is stock tune. I don’t own a windows computer so I can’t pull it and see the tunes myself. I don’t really know anything about the tuners, where to get good tunes, etc. could this be a factor?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
My advice is to fix this before doing ANYTHING to the transmission. If the engine isn't make the power it should, the shifts are going to be wrong. You can set those codes due to a bad running engine.

I'd start with new fuel filters and see if that helps all of the problems.
hey Mark thanks for reaching out.

I actually just replaced the fuel filter myself like 3 days ago. I used a motor craft filter, but reused the NAPA 3818 cap that was on the previous filter. I screwed the cap on nice and tight, so what could I have messed up?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:58 PM
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I don't like tuners. I ALWAYS blame the tuner first!

Originally Posted by jsludlum2
I actually just replaced the fuel filter myself like 3 days ago. I used a motor craft filter, but reused the NAPA 3818 cap that was on the previous filter. I screwed the cap on nice and tight, so what could I have messed up?
I have no idea. I've never changed the filters on a 7.3L.

You may also need to check fuel pressure. Maybe someone will come along that knows the engine. Or you may have to start a new thread on that because a lot of the engine guys are not going to open a thread titled 4R100 Help. I know I wouldn't go to a thread titled 7.3L Help.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I don't like tuners. I ALWAYS blame the tuner first!
sorry for all the rapid posts haha, but could that be the issue? I have zero idea what tunes are on it. Could that be messing with the PCM or something? How do I safely remove the tuner?
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 03:25 PM
  #8  
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Yes, the tuner could be the issue. I have never worked with a tuner and I have no idea how to remove it.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 03:49 PM
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Did you check the match of the previous filter to the motorcraft for height similarity.

A Napa cap may be too tall and that would be a fuel delivery issue as the filter isn't/wouldn't be seated at the proper depth.

Just a check.

Denny
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 04:45 PM
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That is a good point about the fuel bowl cap. I felt like it was pretty snug when i put it on, but i will just buy the stock one from riffraff its only 15 bucks anyway.

I got the codes from the shop:
P0478
P0470
P0782
P0781

The guy I spoke to said his code database reflected that potential fixes include the EBPS and the ICP. Which I do believe could be the culprit to this whole problem. Any further insight?

I plan to disconnect the battery and remove the Hydra tuner and see if that has any effect on the shifting.

I just drove the truck home from the shop and observed that when i am casually driving in and out of city/neighborhood streets, my shifting is OK outside of a thump from 1 to 2. the real issue seems to be that when on the highway, when i give it a good throttle to accelerate and 'WOT', it shifts horribly, and all you can hear is what sounds like a tornado of spooling under the hood, and my RPMs dont move, and I dont really speed up. can these issues be caused by the EBPS or the ICP? I have read about an "accelerator pedal sensor" or something--maybe that it?

again, all help is appreciated guys
 
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