Alternator problems
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Tennessee
Alternator problems
I was driving home while towing my old Airstream yesterday afternoon and the engine started to miss. I looked at my gages and my battery voltage was down to like 8V and I turned the AC and lights off and everything else I could think of. It came up to about 10V. I kicked it a little to see if the miss went away and the voltage came back up to normal. I got home and checked the battery voltage and it was around 12V or so with a load and went up to like 12.5V when I revved the engine. Alternator is working a little but not putting out what it should be.
Are the voltage regulator and diodes etc. all located in the alternator. Where is a good place to get parts? I have been warned about Advance and Autozone alternators and my experience is that they are not very reliable. I would rather pay a little more and get something that won't die on me.
So what else should I check before replacing the alternator?
Perry
Are the voltage regulator and diodes etc. all located in the alternator. Where is a good place to get parts? I have been warned about Advance and Autozone alternators and my experience is that they are not very reliable. I would rather pay a little more and get something that won't die on me.
So what else should I check before replacing the alternator?
Perry
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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I've had a 140 amp unit from alternatorparts.com on my f250 for over 7 years now with no issues at all. My factory Motorcraft unit died and I tried to replace it with a reman Motorcraft unit that was DOA. I said screw it and ponied up a little extra for the new USA made quick start alternator. When you get it in your hands it has a superior feel to it without having to spend a ton on something rated for car audio or accessories. I think it was about $100 premium over the Motorcraft unit at the time.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
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From: Northern California
think i am 6+ years and counting on my Autozone new not reman alternator with life time warranty. been wishing it would die so i can install a Les Nevill unit that puts out full amperage at idle.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,456
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From: Sedalia, CO
Pull yours off and have it tested before just replacing it. It's almost certainly bad, but still worth an easy test.
FWIW, I was going through O'Reilly alternators pretty regularly, both 7.3 ones and 6.0 ones that lots of folks upgrade to. So many that the Grand Junction store (where I ended up having to stop twice on road trips a few months apart) didn't want to warranty them anymore. Traced the issue to corroded wiring between the alternator and the start relay on the passenger's fender, and through which the batteries are charged. Rather than replacing that wire, which is buried in a harness that also powers the glow plugs and (unused, in my case) AIH relay, I ran an additional wire to the start relay, through a 200a circuit breaker. Also grounded the alternator case to the driver's side battery. The new alternator I put on at that time is still going strong.
Mark
FWIW, I was going through O'Reilly alternators pretty regularly, both 7.3 ones and 6.0 ones that lots of folks upgrade to. So many that the Grand Junction store (where I ended up having to stop twice on road trips a few months apart) didn't want to warranty them anymore. Traced the issue to corroded wiring between the alternator and the start relay on the passenger's fender, and through which the batteries are charged. Rather than replacing that wire, which is buried in a harness that also powers the glow plugs and (unused, in my case) AIH relay, I ran an additional wire to the start relay, through a 200a circuit breaker. Also grounded the alternator case to the driver's side battery. The new alternator I put on at that time is still going strong.
Mark
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
yup, wiring must be in order, including the charge ground circuit. ohm the complete circuit and clean all connectors, dont forget to use a spray battery terminal protectant on them to slow corrosion
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From: Central Coast of CA
Stewart
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Unfortunately, Leece Neville does not produce the 230 amp AVi160 series alternator, that is so popular among the 6.0L and 7.3L crowd, for the V10 6.8L, which has an entirely different mounting frame (case) for the alternator.
The LN AVi160 230a is available in Ford T-mount, J180 mount, and commercial engine pad mount frame configurations... but to my knowledge, not in a frame that will fit a Ford V10.
The LN AVi160 230a is available in Ford T-mount, J180 mount, and commercial engine pad mount frame configurations... but to my knowledge, not in a frame that will fit a Ford V10.
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Stewart
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
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From: Northern California
i’d use my current one as my spare no worries, its just a matter of getting around to it, a failure of the current one would force my hand and make me change it. the LN has been on my list for awhile but this dumb autozone refuses to die. 
Y2k, did not know that about the V10, bummer for those guys.
Y2k, did not know that about the V10, bummer for those guys.
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More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Tennessee
The old one was toast. Ended up breaking the bolt on the high current feed. Post was also loose in alternator and has gotten really hot. Got a Ford reman and it looks pretty good. Voltage went up to 14 V with a heavy load with a mostly dead battery , AC front and back, Seat warmer, head lights. Voltage goes a little higher without much load. I think it is fixed. I will drive it some to make sure it is 100% before taking a long trip.
Perry
Perry
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Houston, Texas
The old one was toast. Ended up breaking the bolt on the high current feed. Post was also loose in alternator and has gotten really hot. Got a Ford reman and it looks pretty good. Voltage went up to 14 V with a heavy load with a mostly dead battery , AC front and back, Seat warmer, head lights. Voltage goes a little higher without much load. I think it is fixed. I will drive it some to make sure it is 100% before taking a long trip.
Perry
Perry
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Remote rectification (some quick start alternator set ups have separate diode plates tethered to a fender mounted box) is just asking for stray EMF troubling Hall Effect sensors on the engine and transmission.
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