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Old Sep 21, 2019 | 06:09 PM
  #1  
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Hutch Mod

Who sells the Hutch mod with the stainless pickup tube and stainless return? ( don’t need kit with filter and filter mount) All I can find is the Riff Raff that’s uses fuel hose as a return. (@ a stiff cost) Has anyone used the hose as a return line? Any issues with it?

was going to use copper, but been reading that copper can cause issues.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Sep 21, 2019 | 06:24 PM
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Agreed on the Riff raff pieces.

Go to McMastercarr.com and order what you need.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2019 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by SNIPER168308
...the stainless pickup tube and stainless return...Thanks in advance!
Are you speaking of the in-tank tubes?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2019 | 04:45 PM
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Is this what you were referring to?
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...EaAhp8EALw_wcB
 
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Old Sep 22, 2019 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by dn29626
Are you speaking of the in-tank tubes?
Yes,, the elimination of the in-tank filters and mixing valve.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2019 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Hanks
Is this what you were referring to?
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...EaAhp8EALw_wcB
Exactly,, but without the filter and it’s hardware. Just the parts to eliminate the mixing valve
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 12:11 AM
  #7  
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I am just getting a couple couplings and will make my own.

Here is a guide and parts list.
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 08:53 AM
  #8  
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This is the kit I used:

https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-266...hutch-mod.aspx

It's probably more expensive than piecing it together but I knew everything was the right size and length and that it would all fit.

I updated to the Racor PS 120-02 filter a couple of years ago so I didn't have to buy any more filters. It was the first "mod" I did on the truck so I was pretty green back then and didn't want to wing it. It was still going strong 10 years after I installed it. Pricier than other options but worth it IMO.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 10:28 AM
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If you eliminate the mixing chamber and its associated screen inside the tank, you really should install a similarly rated screen ahead of the pump where you can get to it to clean it out, just to make sure that trash can't get inside the pump suction (the pump cannot be disassembled for cleaning without completely destroying the pump. One of the more popular screen in that service is the Racor PS-120 as mentioned by brian42 above. I'm running the same screen after using the Baldwin setup for years, and am much happier with the screen. Its clear bowl allows you to see if there is pluggage, as well as seeing if there is any entrained air at all getting to your pump - both are excellent troubleshooting conveniences.

BTW, I would also highly recommend that you go ahead and replace the plastic pickup foot in the tank (if it's not been done before now). Plastic weakens with exposure to diesel, and it's not uncommon to see them disintegrate at about 15 years of life, regardless of miles on the vehicle, and the little pieces will plug the hard line at the top of the tank where it makes the bend.

As for the line from the tank, I would not use hard line at all because that will limit your ability to drop the tank. The hose recommended and used by Clay (Riffraff) is the highest rated diesel hose (good for biodiesel, which is actually more aggressive on elastomers than regular diesel). You won't have any issues with that hose. I've been running that same grade of hose for about 12 years (over 175,000 miles) and it has never leaked.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2019 | 05:31 PM
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I made my own kit. I think it cost less than 60 bucks for everything. The compression fittings I got at Ace hardware for $20. The tubing was brake line tubing at local auto store for $20 and the filters were online $20 for 4 filters. I had the brake tubing bending tool. Remember I was buying for two trucks. It allowed me to do both my 7.3s. So cut that cost in half for one truck. As for the filter I bought the older Mercedes dielse in-line plastic filters with the nylon screen. Cheap and easy to replace on the side of th road because every auto store has this type of filter in any given town.
It took me about 3 hours to do one and 1.5 to do the other. Now I cheated and I have a 4 post lift to work on my trucks but if I didn’t I would say double that to 6 hours or more if you’re doing it on the ground. I did the harpoon mod also.

I would seriously reconsider spending the money on a “kit”.

As far as the big inline filter imo it’s really not needed. I’ve ran this filter for over 8 months now and there are a few floaters in there but hell of a lot less than there were in 20 years of the original screens. I still have my big Racor filter unit sitting in the garage shelf.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2019 | 02:29 AM
  #11  
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Just an FYI since I saw this thread...I did my Hutch/Harpoon earlier this year and had a major issue afterwards. I guess the elimination of the factory quick disconnect lines and replacement with double clamped fuel hose made a huge difference on the suction. My issue was that the tank wasn't able to vent fast enough so once the tank would build vacuum and start to shrink from not being able to let air in, the fuel would start to be pulled backwards from the fuel bowl. I ruined a fuel pump and spent 2 weeks scratching my head and attempting fix after fix. Turns out my rollover vents just weren't letting enough air in. I replaced the rollover vent caps with some large hose and axle vent caps from an older truck and I now have a perfectly functioning system.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2019 | 10:18 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by burnthelight88
Just an FYI since I saw this thread...I did my Hutch/Harpoon earlier this year and had a major issue afterwards. I guess the elimination of the factory quick disconnect lines and replacement with double clamped fuel hose made a huge difference on the suction. My issue was that the tank wasn't able to vent fast enough so once the tank would build vacuum and start to shrink from not being able to let air in, the fuel would start to be pulled backwards from the fuel bowl. I ruined a fuel pump and spent 2 weeks scratching my head and attempting fix after fix. Turns out my rollover vents just weren't letting enough air in. I replaced the rollover vent caps with some large hose and axle vent caps from an older truck and I now have a perfectly functioning system.

Sounds like something was clogged or not working correctly. I don’t see how the mod would add to the suction power over a stock factory system. Unless your screens were clogged that badly and the vent valves were clogged as much as the original screens creating a perfect balance of suction and venting your original vent valves were probably just clogged with dirt but had enough venting ability to keep up to the original clogged strainers. Or maybe you had a kinked vent hose ?

My strainers had had some crap in there but it wasn’t a huge amount. Nothing that would cause fueling issues.

Im contemplating doing the other one but I’m looking to sell it so I don’t want to do anything to it. I have a 6.0 cooler for it and I may throw that on but I’m not sure I want to
 
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Old Sep 25, 2019 | 11:05 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 2001F350dualwheel
Sounds like something was clogged or not working correctly. I don’t see how the mod would add to the suction power over a stock factory system. Unless your screens were clogged that badly and the vent valves were clogged as much as the original screens creating a perfect balance of suction and venting your original vent valves were probably just clogged with dirt but had enough venting ability to keep up to the original clogged strainers. Or maybe you had a kinked vent hose ?

My strainers had had some crap in there but it wasn’t a huge amount. Nothing that would cause fueling issues.

Im contemplating doing the other one but I’m looking to sell it so I don’t want to do anything to it. I have a 6.0 cooler for it and I may throw that on but I’m not sure I want to
No vent hoses originally, just the rollover valves with caps. My screens were almost perfectly clean actually. The increased suction is from double clamped hose instead of the factory quick disconnects which are known to let air in. It’s why guys eliminate them. I eliminated them and I think that eliminated air entering there which had been acting as a sort of vent itself.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2019 | 11:24 PM
  #14  
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Got it. I guess I should get rid of my quick connects. I never realized they let air in.
 
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Old Sep 26, 2019 | 08:09 PM
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