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I would also consider doing axle shaft u joints (Spicer greaseable) and inner axle shaft seals if not on you list.
i rebuilt the front axle on my 2000 early this year because of a seized axle u joint on the driver side, trk had about 320’xxx miles on it.
You might want to consider some jack stands too, jmo!
Axle stubs cleaned up nicely with some emery cloth and should be fine.
I picked up seals from Ford yesterday and the inner axle shaft/dif seal, ford part # D8Tz-3254-A, looks a lot different that the one I pulled off. Pics attached.
Old one was basically two part with center rotating and new one just piece with very small Center rubber seal. And thinner seating surface.
Thanks for the feedback and the jack stand safety thought. I do have 2 six ton jack stands (can’t see them) under the beast behind the 3 ton jack I use as insurance. And I’m still paranoid.... will get a worthy lift once move onto acreage and 3 car garage
Originally Posted by jdw1
I would also consider doing axle shaft u joints (Spicer greaseable) and inner axle shaft seals if not on you list.
i rebuilt the front axle on my 2000 early this year because of a seized axle u joint on the driver side, trk had about 320’xxx miles on it.
You might want to consider some jack stands too, jmo!
admiring the cleanliness of your workspace. I’ve hijacked my mom garage and need a good clean up before I get all parts and start reassemble
QUOTE=jdw1;18860503]I would also consider doing axle shaft u joints (Spicer greaseable) and inner axle shaft seals if not on you list.
i rebuilt the front axle on my 2000 early this year because of a seized axle u joint on the driver side, trk had about 320’xxx miles on it.
You might want to consider some jack stands too, jmo!
[/QUOTE]
Originally Posted by Mod7.3
Thanks for the feedback and the jack stand safety thought. I do have 2 six ton jack stands (can’t see them) under the beast behind the 3 ton jack I use as insurance. And I’m still paranoid.... will get a worthy lift once move onto acreage and 3 car garage
Axle stubs cleaned up nicely with some emery cloth and should be fine.
I picked up seals from Ford yesterday and the inner axle shaft/dif seal, ford part # D8Tz-3254-A, looks a lot different that the one I pulled off. Pics attached.
Old one was basically two part with center rotating and new one just piece with very small Center rubber seal. And thinner seating surface.
This isn’t new version or is it the wrong part?
Those are the new style seals! A little different to install.
fwiw I would really consider new axle u-joints while you are there!
I don’t know if they are better, when I ordered all of my parts I assumed I was get the original type until I got going on reassembly a week or so later, no shoulder on the new ones to seat against, if I remember correctly I think the new style seal get installed 20 thousands deeper in the housing, so in other words just a bit deeper than the ones you removed. It took me a while to do the research on depth, obviously if it’s wrong and it’s leaking you have disassemble the entire axle to correct the problem! I had replaced my original seals at around 115’xxx miles because it developed a leaky seal and I needed new hub bearings, I had one that was growling, I had two hundred thousand on that rebuilt and now I’m at around 320’xxx , my hubs had no sign of problems in May (2019) when I rebuilt the axle but you are there and IMO its kinda foolish not to do everything, you’re there, it’s a part, why would you not do it all for a few hundred bucks, jmo, that’s why I’m suggesting to do u-joints, if one fails in the next year or so you’ll have to disassemble everything except the carrier for two 60 dollar u-joints! Again jmo!
By the conversion of kilometers to miles you have around 200’xxx miles on the vehicle if my conversation is close, if you rebuild and use good quality parts you should be good for another 200,xxx miles, so how far down the road does that put you from now, 15 years of trouble free service! That’s how I look at this, after trucking all my life I have a different way of looking at repairs!
In addition to the the links that Unleashed and others posted, you may find some helpful information in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder located at the link below.
I don’t know if they are better, when I ordered all of my parts I assumed I was get the original type until I got going on reassembly a week or so later, no shoulder on the new ones to seat against, if I remember correctly I think the new style seal get installed 20 thousands deeper in the housing, so in other words just a bit deeper than the ones you removed. It took me a while to do the research on depth, obviously if it’s wrong and it’s leaking you have disassemble the entire axle to correct the problem! I had replaced my original seals at around 115’xxx miles because it developed a leaky seal and I needed new hub bearings, I had one that was growling, I had two hundred thousand on that rebuilt and now I’m at around 320’xxx , my hubs had no sign of problems in May (2019) when I rebuilt the axle but you are there and IMO its kinda foolish not to do everything, you’re there, it’s a part, why would you not do it all for a few hundred bucks, jmo, that’s why I’m suggesting to do u-joints, if one fails in the next year or so you’ll have to disassemble everything except the carrier for two 60 dollar u-joints! Again jmo!
By the conversion of kilometers to miles you have around 200’xxx miles on the vehicle if my conversation is close, if you rebuild and use good quality parts you should be good for another 200,xxx miles, so how far down the road does that put you from now, 15 years of trouble free service! That’s how I look at this, after trucking all my life I have a different way of looking at repairs!
JMO!
I have both the new and old style inner seals and will do a bit more research before deciding on which to install. Can’t reassemble everything till Timken bearings arrive from US so have some time to consider u joints and thinking about cleaning up and painting some of the components down there, calipers etc
Last seals I need for reassemble are the dust seals. There is a u tube video of the newer style Timken that look more durable and will help prevent shaft from banging around. Thanks again for feedback
In addition to the the links that Unleashed and others posted, you may find some helpful information in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder located at the link below.
Ive been pouring thru the tech folder. Lots of other things I’d like to do.......Top of that list is the front leaf springs that have sagged since the 4 inch lift a few years ago. Will touch base with (well respected) shop I got it at to get their thoughts. Maybe some warranty but doubt it.
Ex fairly easy to work on. They say to remove bumper to make clearance for leaf spring bolt but leaf spring bolt is in way of a few bumper bolt!!!
.......as my Dad would have said. They also appear to be in good shape but wouldn’t hurt to be done. Issue is I don’t have a vice so stabilizing for the pressing would be a challenge unless got a shop to do them.
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