Hey there, new to the forum but been an 7.3 excursion owner since bought new in 2002. Gave truck to my son but have recently taken it back to do some maintenance and some upgrades..... he may not get it back! Did 4 inch exhaust, chip, just after purchased, and a 4 inch lift a few years ago, but that’s it.
Just got tail pipe repaired and the two resonators mid cabin were still in good shape after many years.

Now moved to the front bearings, and i have done a complete tear down of the axle, major mess in garage!
Would appreciate some advice on a few questions:
1. 30 spline Dana 50 axle in all excursions I think. Now that I have it all apart does it make sense to make any mods, maybe to beefier axle shafts? Can I just insert new guts and use existing Dana 50 housing? Thoughts on what brand axles I should use for replacements?
2. Bearings on passenger side were basically seized and axle shaft was scored. Drivers side bearings were better but two minor areas of wear. Is there any worth in the repair that moves new bearings to clear part of axles?
Sorry for long winded message but looking forward to doing a bunch of stuff. Finally moved to an acreage and have space to do some work now!!!

 

I’ve read Timken is a good made in US product and that should use ford seals and bearing kit? Good choices?
Anything else I should look to do to the front axle while I have it apart? Upgrades? The leaf springs are sagging already after installed a lift only 3 or 4. Suggestions on what front springs should go with? Rear are fine. Have air bags that help.

Front springs sag

years ago.

 

Welcome to the FTE! Glad you decided to join us with your 1 or actually family owned Excursion!! Please take the time to peruse the tech folder at the top of the forum topics list (see picture below) and also the search function will give you a lot of information about the replacement springs, suspension geometry etc. Reach out to @ATS Junior (ATS is a site sponsor) or check out the Procomp springs. @pirate4x4_camo is our resident expert on suspensions and will be shortly along to help out as well. ON my previous EX, I had switched to the X & Modified C code springs from ATS and it made for a night & day change from the stock springs that I had on them. I haven't done any suspension changes on my current EX. On the bearings, I have used Timken bearings on all my cars and trucks so far and am very happy.

 

Welcome to FTE!

Timken is the OEM for unit bearings and they make great seals as well. I just went through my front and rear axles and used all timken parts except the hub seals. For those, I used National, which is another good brand IMHO.

FYI, in that second picture, it looks as though the inner part of the seal is still on the stub shaft. As far as the wear on the stub axles and replacing them, I can't tell from the pictures if I would. I'd say if you can feel a significant lip there, replace them. As far as upgraded parts, I'm sure there are ways to upgrade the axles, etc., but unless you're doing some serious offroad driving I wouldn't worry about it.

 

I wouldn't worry about upgrading the axles.

I have had great service from Denny's Driveshaft. Fair pricing, fair shipping. www.dennysdriveshaft.com

 

Dynatrac Free spin kit will upgrade your outer stub axle to the dana 60 35 spline. but the real benefit is eliminating the failure prone no serviceable wheel bearings to a traditional hub and wheel bearing setup that can be rebuilt and serviced.

have had mine for 10+ years running 37 and 40” tires, no worries

 

www.venturestruckparts.com has all the good spicer parts you want for your rebuild, dont be tempted by the moog junk.

 

From my research on the topic, I have concluded that the axle spline count and taper (compared to a D60) isn't a real issue unless you are into some rough off-roading with tires >36"...most of the stories I have hard of breaking are from hard/quick accelerations in 4WD-Lo running way oversized tires. In day-to-day or slow going off roading they are more than sufficient.

On the bearing wear...as said before, I can't tell from the picture if I would replace it....it 'looks' pretty smooth and uniform, but if it fails the fingernail test I'd replace it.

Also, if you can swing the Free Spin Kit, it's a heck of a kit...I've been real happy with mine too

 

to your spring question, all springs sag, it is just the way they work. 1” of ssg is typical before needing replacement.

for a 4” dpring I get good service life out of the Procomp 22210

 

Thanks so much for the feedback! Spent a few hours reading thru past threads last night. Thanks to all those who contributed to those posts! Priceless!
I added a few more pics of axle stubs. Would appreciate any additional thoughts if the bearing wear on them justify replacement. Have Timken bearing assembly’s on the way and although the Ex has 396kilos(Calgary AB) on it we hope to ride for another 400k, so worth being thorough.
Also read should only use emery cloth on the bearing riding section but (before reading) used a drill with small wire brush attachment to clean it up. Can’t imagine it would comprise the integrity with the abuse it gets from the bearings but I’ve been wrong many times before.

 

surface looks fine, i have run much worse,

the axle only turns when you are in 4x4 ( unless your hubs are. locked ). and that is likely going to be for short durations and moderate speeds so that pilot bearing doesn't see much action. throw some bearing grease on it and run it.

or......follow the link i posted above and replace it, they are inexpensive

 

Oh ya, if anyone in Alberta has a seal installer I’d be happy to rent/buy and pay for shipping. I did my best McGiver to get the seals out but figure putting back the new ones will require a bit more finesse.

 

again, follow the link i posted to Ventures truck parts. every thing you need. all the good parts. or youtube it snd built s simple one out of ABS pipe

 

That needle bearing in the center of the bearing pack sees 100% rotational speed with the axle stub motionless when in 2wd and hubs unlocked...
With hubs locked the needle bearing and the shaft are at the same speed and zero wear.
The needle bearing is replaceable by itself, the stub shafts are available from the ujoint out... part number somewhere in FAQ.

 

Theses are the pictures I was referencing above. Looks as though there’s part of the seal left on that stub shaft. As far as an install tool, I made one from a 4” flange, 2”x10” pipe nipple and a cap. Works well, just make sure the flange isn’t threaded crooked before you buy it. It takes a bit of force to drive them on. I cleaned all my parts with a wire wheel or cup on a grinder (low speed) with no ill effects.