Overheating problem
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Overheating problem
I have an 89 f250 with a 4.9 and Im having overheating issues. It has a new water pump (PO installed), new tstat (195), new radiator. A comp test shows 120 psi ( +/- 5 or pounds very close) in every cylinder, has plugs, wires cap/rotor replaced, timing set at 10 with the spout disconnected. This happens while driving, will idle with the rad cap off for over 1/2 hour with out boiling over. I don't know what else to try. Thanks for any suggestions
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
To rule out retarded ignition timing as a cause, make sure timing advances smoothly to say 34° to 36°, and returns back down to 10° without sticking anywhere along the way. With vacuum advance connected timing should be quite a bit more, somewhere around 50°. Since it's overheating on the road, otherwise points toward possible rust and scale sediment in the block? Possibly, partially collapsing lower radiator hose, under load. Lower radiator hoses used to have a spring in them.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: NC
faulty / improper radiator cap possibly. 13 psi is what they call for if I remember correctly. If you are having to add water to it, get the nose up at an angle when you are adding water so that the air will work it's way out. I bought a funnel that sits in a radiator cap (comes with the kit, you can get them at parts stores or online) and holds over a quart of water. You fill your radiator and while the engine is running put the cap/funnel combo on and fill the funnel and let it idle til your T stat opens and bubbles stop coming up into the funnel, add fluid as needed while you are working out the bubbles. It's easy peasy and took all the aggravation out of trying to "burp" the system to get the air out.
after the bubbles stop, put your regular cap on it, drive it a couple times, check the fluid level, add if needed and you are good to go.
after the bubbles stop, put your regular cap on it, drive it a couple times, check the fluid level, add if needed and you are good to go.
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Zombie, I think you hit the nail on the head!! I put the nose up and filled the radiator and now it doesn't run hot, stays between 195 and 200 according to the mechanical gauge I put on it. Another issue I found was the PO had removed the A/C comp and routed a non- A/C belt the way it showed on the red support sticker. The tensioner pulley was bottomed out and wasn't holding a lot of pressure on the belt, I suspected the WP may have been slipping while driving, I had to put a belt 2 inches shorter on it than the book called for so it would tighten up properly. I'm not sure that was happening but the air bubble in the engine was definitely there so thanks for the advice.
Happy Motoring
Darrin
Happy Motoring
Darrin
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Ford had a TSB at one time somewhere along the way, the fix was to jam the thermostat open with piece of hard candy on installation. That way air pockets are eliminated from the start allowing for a complete fill. Candy dissolves, thermostat works as normal. Thought that was pretty clever.
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I was a Ford tech for 17 years but never done much with engines I was a trans tech. You are right that would be a clever little bit of info to keep in the back of my head especially since I now own a 4.9 now. My truck is an 93 F 350 CC with a 7.3 IDI ATS Turbo (the good one LOL) I installed a 6 Speed ZF in. (Never have liked the electronic diesels much). The 250 is a 7700 GVW light duty that we got to fix up for my son when he starts driving (Lord, please help me LOL) I'm proud to say I have a 13 yr.old that knows how to drive a manual trans truck b/c most young people these days look at a clutch pedal like a monkey doing a math problem. Thanks again for the advice.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
When I change coolant in my "88 F-150 with the 4.9 I always disconnect the uppermost heater hose at the engine end and pour coolant in the radiator until the coolant flows out where I disconnected the heater hose. Before I learned this trick I would always have to let the engine idle until it was hot before the coolant would get past the thermostat.
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88n94, I did the same thing twice and still had air pockets. I went back and looked the way it was sitting when I was working on it and the front of the engine was pointing down, not much, but apparently enough to cause troubles. Putting the front of the truck uphill is a good idea for any engine when filling the radiator. Common sense stuff but apparently I'm losing it in my old age 
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