RIFFRAFF FRX INSTALL
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2007
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RIFFRAFF FRX INSTALL
Ok guys, I’m in a pickle with this installation. I’m trying to remove those two 9/32” pipe plugs. I have the front one on the passenger side out and am working on the driver’s side one at the firewall. That’s my problem. I have the square socket for the plugs and used it on the front one but could not get it to work on the other one. So, after trying a couple of ideas I have basically rounded the corners on the square pipe plug. Access is very difficult so using a large pair of vise grips may not work either. With it rounded off I don’t see any other method except the use of maybe a smaller set of vise grips. Any advice will be very much appreciated.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
Clearly the plug is seized in place. Do you have any penetrating fluid like PB Blaster, Kroil, ATF/alcohol?
My ZF6 transmission fill plug was seized in place and I had to weld a bolt to it in order to crack it off.
You may have to remove the parts and obstructions around the plug in order to gain better access to it. Valve cover, IC tube, CCV bracket, etc...
My ZF6 transmission fill plug was seized in place and I had to weld a bolt to it in order to crack it off.
You may have to remove the parts and obstructions around the plug in order to gain better access to it. Valve cover, IC tube, CCV bracket, etc...
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2007
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Thanks Sous. It’s an ‘02, 7.3, Lariat, CC. I’ve got all those parts removed as I’m also installing new injectors. Thought I would knock out this mod first. I have also used penetrating oil prior to working on the plugs. The first plug was installed with the threads flush with head, seems Ford really torqued them down. Pipe fittings with tapered threads need only a good thread sealant and a really good snug fit. Will add more penetrating oil - got both Krupp and JB Blaster.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
It seems you have already done everything I suggested. If it doesn't crack loose, your only other choices would be heat or welding something to the remaining portion of the plug to something more substantial.
Maybe someone else will come along with a good idea.
Maybe someone else will come along with a good idea.
It's a Van Gogh
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 7,812
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From: Elk Grove, CA
Coming along with another idea, we'll find out if it's good...
Place a punch in the plug hole so you have something to aim at, then give it a rap with a light hammer. A bit of percussive persuasion helps loosen things.
Place a punch in the plug hole so you have something to aim at, then give it a rap with a light hammer. A bit of percussive persuasion helps loosen things.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 967
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From: coquitlam,BC
get a set of bolt remover sockets. they will work because the harder you turn, the more they bite.i have used them many times and never failed getting the frozen bolt out as long as you can get it on tight.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 27,352
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From: Lake Hartwell, GA
This! I don't know why I didn't think of that. I have a Craftsman 10 piece set in my tool inventory that rarely gets used but does a good job when they do.
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More Turbo
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: North East Arkansas.
Drive it to your local super market and pick some dry ice. With the engine still warm use some insulated gloves and hold the dry ice directly on the end of the bolt only. it will cool down at a different rate the block holding it. I've also seen someone heat up bolts and then spray it with WD-40 are a nonflammable lubricate and as it cools it draws the lubricate in.
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From: San Diego, CA
Mine were on there pretty good too. I ended up spraying the with PB Blaster and removing the interference to get an open area to work on them (removed the HPOP and the turbo).
You are obviously past that point but if it were me I would spray the plugs, remove the interference, and go the bolt remover socket route (that cps recommended).
Just my .02
You are obviously past that point but if it were me I would spray the plugs, remove the interference, and go the bolt remover socket route (that cps recommended).
Just my .02
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