Thanks to other members help around my last thread, I've narrowed down my front end clunk to the faulty ball joints. As this truck is new to me, I'm still going over everything to make sure it's sound.
So once loads of things will be out of the way to get the ball joints replaced, I might as well get everything done around the area... and thought that a new thread would reflect it better.
This is what I'm planning to replace on both front wheels:

• 2C3Z-3254-AA, SPICER 52148, DANA 2019816 - Inner Axleshaft Oil Seal (in at the differential)
  
• Ford F81Z-1S175-HCA / DANA 50491 - Axle Shaft Seal 2x
  
• Ford F81Z3254CB - Axle Knuckle Vacuum Seal 2x
  
• 4C3Z-1K106-AA - Autolock Hub O ring (black)
  
• 417842 DANA - Yellow O’ring 2x
  
• SPL553X DANA U-Joint 2x
  
• RD52002 Dana - Diff cover gasket 1x
  
• Ball Joints: A-Team Performance XRF K8607T Lower / K80026 Upper 2x
  

Now, what about the main wheel bearing? Are they replaceable or do I need a complete new hub?
I'm running 37" tyres and 6" lift, and understand that this setup can cause premature wear in some components... including the wheel bearings... as I just got the truck, I'm happy to replace the wheel bearings now that everything will be apart so I know where I stand, instead of having to pull everything apart again in 6 months time coz of a bust bearing.
And what about U joints? How long are they suppose to last? Or shall get them done too? They are about US30 a piece from Dana/Spicer, so not too bad.

Many thanks!

 

If you are going to replace the main wheel bearings as well, you might as well get an entire unit bearing assembly with the main bearings, needle bearing and hub all preassembled instead of attempting to press it all together yourself. Unit bearings don't last long with 37" tires and 6" lifts though. If you don't mind manual locking hubs, you may want to consider a free-spin kit. They're very expensive. Take a deep breath before clicking this: https://www.dynatrac.com/free-spin-k...eel-studs.html

 

@FordTruckNoob lol tks! But no tks! hahaha
That's what I was thinking too, by the time I add up all the bearings and seal, I'm prob better off getting a hole new hub unit with everything for a little more.
What is most likely to last longer? Motorcraft? Moog? SKF? Tinken? Raybestos? They are all around US$170-US$220 per side.

 

With 37" tires, even the best ones like Timken fail in about a year. I run 37" tires too and ended up going with Autozone Moogs because they have a 3-year warranty. I have changed mine so many times I can get them swapped in 15 minutes. I used to run the one from O'Reilly until they cottoned on that I had gotten about 8 unit bearings out of them under warranty.

 

Check the sway bar drop links. When I got my truck there was a clunk and I traced it to these. Replaced them and no more clunk.

 

You might want to dig in a little further and pull the gear out of the differential and replace the inner axle seals. The 2 trucks I've done ball joints on develeped a leak on the passenger side inner axle seal. It slowly leaked diff fluid onto the lower ball joint.

 

Tinken ones are US$160 (12months warranty), against US$227 for motorcraft (24 months w.) ones. Moog are US$190 with 36 months warranty.
I have no clue if the ones I have at the moment have ever been changed... all I know is that the 37" and lift kit are there for around 8 years.

Yeap, checked that already, all good. Even drove with them removed, noise was still there.

hummmm tks for that! Sounds like a good tip. Changing my diff fluid is also on my list of things to do, so could just get it ALL done at once.

 

I used Moog for the ball joints on mine, to do again I'd go with Spicer. The kit through Amazon with all seals is $173 plus tax. Add u-joints and Timken bearings, and you've practically rebuilt the axle.

You can rent the ball joint tool and make or purchase a seal press tool. I personally have the Lisle, OTC makes one and others have made one from a Home Depot flange.

Spicer 2020314 Ball Joint Kit

 

I used xrf and made my own tool from the pipe and flange. Worked great. The job wasn't all that bad in the end.

 

Good job @steelandspeed . Has the clunk gone away?

 

@00Dave @Bently_Coop
Tks! Yes, I think I'll end up getting the u joints and the bearings, get it all done and dusted.
Also getting new swaybar bushings and end links, tie rod ends, and hopefully won't need to touch the front end for a while. Drag bar already replaced a few weeks ago as it was really bad.

 

@steelandspeed once your parts list is finalized, could you do the FTE community a favor and list the year of your truck and if it is SRW or DRW and if it is 2WD or 4WD.

Also, a parts list with a brief description and part numbers would be great for future readers to find when they are looking to accomplish the same tasks.

You don't have to list the source or price if you don't like, but something like front axle left outer universal joint brand xxx part number xxx and ball joint kit xxx part number xxx would be good.

Keep us updated and we always like pictures!

 

Hi @Sous ,
Sure, not a prob at all. I'm on a little holiday at the moment, and also waiting for parts. As soon as I start the work I'll post everything here.
Many thanks

 

Hey @FordTruckNoob , I'm sorry for the delay, I thought I had replied u.
Nope, clunk still there... not as bad as before tho... but I havent replaced the ball joints yet.. got all the other easier stuff replaced (they needed replacing anyway). I think I'm trying to hide from the ball joint job lol.

 

I’ve done three Superduty axles. One D50 and two D60s.

if you’re gonna do this
Dana Spicer ball joints. To me these were the best to install. I did two trucks with Napa ball joints and while they seemed like quality parts the DS were imo less loose and felt stronger as I swiveled the knuckle when reinstalling

for the seals I just went Factory Ford.

The hub bearings were Timken. One set was a Ford set. I noticed absolutely no difference between them.

I packed the bearings through the antilock sensor hole. Go easy when removing those break easily. 8 used wide pliers and a twist and pull motion. I used a zerk fitting on my grease gun tip and held the normally threaded portion in the hole and squeezed grease inside. Some squeezes out no big deal. Turn the hub and grease spreads around

the most important part is the needle bearing on the inside/backside of the hub. That bearing came with very little grease on the needles. Pack that really good. Then repack it once a year.

make sure you put the washers back the way they came off.

Service the locking hubs.

You'll need a torque wrench that can get over 150 lbto retorque everything.

I also suggest doing the front u joints on the axle shafts.

I used Dana Spicer nongreasable ball joints. I don5 think it really matters though. I got 160,000 out of one set and 180,000 out of another.