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New ball joints needed. What else?

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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 02:18 PM
  #16  
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Hey @2001F350dualwheel , tks for the input, really appreciate it.
I'll have a go at the XRF ball joints, as I already bought them, and being in UK, it's not that simple to just return them.
And yes, my U joints are dead too, just noticed the other day, and was looking at the Dana Spicer ones, tks for the reassurance
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 03:45 PM
  #17  
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There is this option, I have not done this myself but I would research if I was running bigger then 35" tires
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...60-3x1104.aspx
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 04:01 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 1leg
There is this option, I have not done this myself but I would research if I was running bigger then 35" tires
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...60-3x1104.aspx
I looked into dynatrac but for the cost I can do the hubs 3x over. I’m running stock tires so my hubs last 150k minimum. The truck would have about 450,000 miles (well actually 600,000 miles) before I got money back out of that Dynatrac purchase. And it took me 18-20 years to get to 160/180,000 so I’ll be dead or not driving by the time that paid off.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 04:56 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by steelandspeed
Hey @FordTruckNoob , I'm sorry for the delay, I thought I had replied u.
Nope, clunk still there... not as bad as before tho... but I havent replaced the ball joints yet.. got all the other easier stuff replaced (they needed replacing anyway). I think I'm trying to hide from the ball joint job lol.
Ah yes. Ball joints can be intimidating if it's your first time. Just dive in! You'll do all your learning on one side and then the other will take half the time.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2019 | 05:37 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2001F350dualwheel
I looked into dynatrac but for the cost I can do the hubs 3x over. I’m running stock tires so my hubs last 150k minimum. The truck would have about 450,000 miles (well actually 600,000 miles) before I got money back out of that Dynatrac purchase. And it took me 18-20 years to get to 160/180,000 so I’ll be dead or not driving by the time that paid off.
Same reason I'm not doing it. stock tire size.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2019 | 11:54 AM
  #21  
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@FordTruckNoob Yes, I agree. But not even that, I want to replace the hubs at the same time, so won't have to get in there so soon again, and money is a bit short. But hopefully next month!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2019 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 1leg
There is this option, I have not done this myself but I would research if I was running bigger then 35" tires
https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/...60-3x1104.aspx
I think I'll pass on this one too lol
But tks!
 
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Old Oct 4, 2019 | 01:12 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by steelandspeed
@FordTruckNoob Yes, I agree. But not even that, I want to replace the hubs at the same time, so won't have to get in there so soon again, and money is a bit short. But hopefully next month!

Unless there is something wrong with the hubs (leaking, growling loose) I wouldn’t waste the money replacing them until something goes wrong. Grease them up through the antilock sensor hole and drive it . Since the hubs can be replaced pretty easily only replace them when needed. I would get new hub center bearing and install and grease it up. Those are available and replaceable. For right now I would service your existing ones
 
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Old Oct 8, 2019 | 08:36 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by steelandspeed
@00Dave @Bently_Coop
Tks! Yes, I think I'll end up getting the u joints and the bearings, get it all done and dusted.
Also getting new swaybar bushings and end links, tie rod ends, and hopefully won't need to touch the front end for a while. Drag bar already replaced a few weeks ago as it was really bad.
Nice. Last year I had Duck Fan replace EVERYTHING in the front. From the springs to the shocks to the tie rods to the steering box to the actual steering wheel, he replaced everything. Unsurprisingly, it drives like new. These trucks are mostly 20 years old now and can really use the refresh. Oh yeah I replaced the shift **** too. The interface is nice with the new steering wheel and shift **** that isn't totally smooth from wear.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 12:21 PM
  #25  
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So, this job is still pending for me... and the longer I wait, the more I think that my ball joints are actually fine...
Today I've done probably the ultimate test to prove myself wrong about it. Before I'd jack the truck, and use a pry-par under the tyre to spot any movement at the ball joints, and I'd get nothing... all solid.
Today I put the whole front on jack stands, and used my trolley jack under the wheel for the same test, just in case pry bar wasn't doing the job properly. And again, none of the ball joint moved, not even 1mm. The axle would come off the stand as I would jack the tyre up, and the ball joints were solid.
But, I did find something else. There is a growling/grinding noise coming from the left hub as I spin wheel, on both directions. And it's not the brake/calliper, as I removed the calliper and rotor, and the noise is still there as I hand spin the hub. The hub was not locked either, just in case. And I did notice the same sound the other day when costing at low speed toward a stop.
What do u guys say? Hub/bearing? Also if I grab the tyre at 3-9 o'clock, there is not deflection side to side, all solid.
I din't want to open it all up, as I don't have any parts with me, still need to order them from USA to UK.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 12:33 PM
  #26  
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Yup. Probably a bad unit bearing. Getting bad enough to growl is not good though. I hope it's not the needle bearing tearing up the stub axle.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 12:45 PM
  #27  
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Hey @FordTruckNoob tks dude.
That is also my fear... I might have to open everything up before I order the parts to check it all... at least will be only one week until I can get the parts here.
I might get SKF hubs from RockAuto, they have 36 months warranty where all other have only 12.
I'll come up with a little list of parts and will post here for you guys to review just in case I miss something.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 01:13 PM
  #28  
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I haven't read your previous thread but I was also getting a clunk in the front end. Found out it was my shock strut bushing it was in pieces. Replaced all shocks. Well I was wrong. Clunk still there. Ended up being my outer tie rods. No more clunk. Though now I have the grinding/growling sound on my driver side wheel when I spin the wheel freely. I am sure it is the hub bearing going bad, but I will worry about that later.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 01:53 PM
  #29  
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Hi @L-ight
Yeap I've replaced all shock bushings, all tie-rod, drag link + ends, track bar bushing, and noise still there...
Nothing going over bumps in straight line, but if the steering is turned left and there is any bump on the road, clunk... and sometimes on sharp turn at higher speed it will also clunk. I've check all 6 cab mounts too, barely any cracks on them.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2019 | 02:02 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by steelandspeed
Hi @L-ight
Yeap I've replaced all shock bushings, all tie-rod, drag link + ends, track bar bushing, and noise still there...
Nothing going over bumps in straight line, but if the steering is turned left and there is any bump on the road, clunk... and sometimes on sharp turn at higher speed it will also clunk. I've check all 6 cab mounts too, barely any cracks on them.
Could it be anything in your lift kit?
 
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