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Hello all,
Does anyone know the correct radiator cap pressure for a 1977 F250 with a 460 and a super cooling radiator? My bypass hose blew last weekend and I'm sure the hose was old, but I thought I'd double check because I replaced the original radiator this year and just used the new cap that came with the radiator. I think it's a 13 psi cap.
13 is what ive seen the most published by ford and what worked best for my FE setup, New cap, hose and fresh top off with a catch can should do the trick...
pressure raises boiling point of H2O, so 15-16 lbs would raise this point a lil more than 12-13 PSI.
just an FYI.
i run 15-16 PSI caps on all mine. regardles of age style design vintage etc.
I run 15-16 PSI caps on all mine. regardles of age style design vintage etc.
This is not necessarily a good idea. The OP is discussing a 1977 product year, which may be OK. It's not necessary to "proof test", if it shipped with a 13 pound cap, I would not exceed that without good reason and I can't think of any. Depends on what you mean by "vintage", but the earlier designs will almost guarantee a blown out radiator, they are not capable of more than 4 or 5 psi, my '64 uses a 7 lb cap.
Thanks everyone for the information. Another question: if a higher psi cap is used, wouldn't that raise the pressure in the entire system and not just in the rad? Which would, in turn, put undue pressure /strain on all seals and hoses?
Thanks everyone for the information. Another question: if a higher psi cap is used, wouldn't that raise the pressure in the entire system and not just in the rad? Which would, in turn, put undue pressure /strain on all seals and hoses?
No a higher psi cap will not raise the pressure. It's just a safety valve to protect your cooling system.
A higher psi cap is not a smart choice! If your system is overheating the a higher psi cap will allow the pressure to rise up to its rated psi tolerance but that just might be enough to damage things.
Thanks everyone for the information. Another question: if a higher psi cap is used, wouldn't that raise the pressure in the entire system and not just in the rad? Which would, in turn, put undue pressure /strain on all seals and hoses?
Yes it does to some degree. A modern radiator can handle greater pressure, but it's possible the OEM heater core may not. If for example had an original, tired engine with many miles or years, I might then be concerned with head gasket damage as well. It works together as a complete system. Another area of dispute is temperature. 160° F. thermostats were known as "summer" thermostats, ordinarily used with straight water. A 50/50 solution of glycol and water provides corrosion protection in addition to freeze protection, this is important even if living in the tropics. Even as far back as '64 the thermostat opening point was 192° F and used a 7 pound cap. Optimal running temperatures are especially important for reducing cylinder bore wear and sludge buildup due to condensation.
Yes it does to some degree. A modern radiator can handle greater pressure, but it's possible the OEM heater core may not. If for example had an original, tired engine with many miles or years, I might then be concerned with head gasket damage as well. It works together as a complete system. Another area of dispute is temperature. 160° F. thermostats were known as "summer" thermostats, ordinarily used with straight water. A 50/50 solution of glycol and water provides corrosion protection in addition to freeze protection, this is important even if living in the tropics. Even as far back as '64 the thermostat opening point was 192° F and used a 7 pound cap. Optimal running temperatures are especially important for reducing cylinder bore wear and sludge buildup due to condensation.
The original radiator had a 7 lb cap and the replacement came with a 13 lb cap. Do you think I should go back to the 7 lb cap because I have the original high mileage engine and I don't need any major problems. Parts are very hard to come by here in Germany and very expensive to ship from the US.
Yes, this is where the Shop Manual is invaluable. In the specifications section it will list the factory OEM radiator pressure cap for your truck application. If it originally shipped out with a 7 pound radiator cap, it should not be exceeded. This is one of the most common errors, installing a modern high pressure cap on older applications.
Yes, this is where the Shop Manual is invaluable. In the specifications section it will list the factory OEM radiator pressure cap for your truck application. If it originally shipped out with a 7 pound radiator cap, it should not be exceeded. This is one of the most common errors, installing a modern high pressure cap on older applications.
How do you know that 7lb cap was not installed because of old and weak hoses & radiator?
It was common back in the day that if the radiator was sent out for a leak repair it also got a lower psi cap.
Everything should be in good shape new, coming from the factory shouldn't it? If they used a 7 lb cap, that's what I would use.
If it was factory but I don't think I have ever seen a factory 7lb cap.
Who has a factory book to look up what it should be so this could be put to rest?
Dave ----