My 64 F600 right rear axle seal was pouring oil out of it. Does anyone have a wheel seal number for this truck? Axle code is G3, 15x5 inch brakes, GVW on the door plate is 20000.

Once I got it apart to my pleasant surprise the rear brakes have been overhauled very recently - no dust/dirt and shoes look like they just came out of a box. Heck - the wheel cylinders are not even rusty!

The wheel seal, also replaced, doesn't look like any I've seen before and I believe it is the wrong seal hence my leak. There is no wiper lip! Rubber outside, metal in the middle, rubber on the inside.The rubber only protrudes form the metal by a few hundredths of an inch. If this is the correct type of seal then everything would have to be nearly perfect metal to metal fit with nothing out of round, worn, or misaligned for this to seal anything




Part number on the seal is CR39380 - an SKF CR Seals (https://www.skf.com/us/products/seal...als/index.html) having an outer diameter of 5.374 inches, shaft diameter of 3.938 inches. Measuring the seal the outside diameter appears correct but the inner diameter is only about 3 3/4 (3.75) inches. The seal may have been mislabeled at the factory hence the wrong seal on the truck?

 

What size are the rear brakes, 15 x 4 .. 15 x 4 1/2 .. 15 x 5 or 15 x 6?

G3 is an Eaton two speed rear axle w/a 17,000 lbs. capacity.

 

Brakes are 15 x 5.

Thank you.

 

7EQ-1175-A .. Rear Axle Seal // Timken part number: A-1205-B-574 // 5 3/8" O.D. x 3 15/16" I.D. x 1 1/16" thick / Obsolete

BOWMAN SALES & SERVICE in Bowman ND has 2 = 701-523-3257.

KLIMESH MOTOR SALES in Calmar IA has 4 = 563-452-3241.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has 44 = 800-543-4959.

 

That is exactly the measurements of the SKF CR Seal p/n CR39380. Hmmm...

OD 5 3/8" = 3.375"
ID 3 15\16" = 3.9375"
Thick 1 1/16" = 1.0625"

Got out the calipers and measured the ID of the seal and axle....
Seal up against the metal band measures 3.90" which is smaller in diameter than the listed 3.938"
The axle shaft at the seal measures 3.92" to 3.94"...

The seal is definitely damaged from looking at pictures of other SCOT1 type seals because none of those have exposed metal at the sealing surface. Maybe it was the right seal and just a poor installation job... not seated fully, didn't clean/polish the axle seat, didn't lube the seal/shaft prior to installing...

Thanks Bill... I'll give Green a call in the morning

 

39380 seal is a newer style seal that does not have a wiper lip on the ID. It is a Stemco or Scot type seal, the inner diameter seals tight on the axle, the outer tight on the hub. Rotation happens in the seal itself. Hold the inner and the outer part can be turned. This type of seal is much more reliable and longer lasting than the old lip type. However, the hub inner surface and axle surface need to be in good shape, seal needs to be installed perfectly straight, and the wheel bearings need to be adjusted properly. This type of seal usually does not require a wear sleeve on the axle, I have seen people try to force a Stemco seal over a existing lip seal wear sleeve, and that usually destroys the seal.

 

Joe - Thank you for the information on the seal and explains why the seal can have exposed metal on the inside diameter; but if the seal were to spin on the axle housing I can see where that would be really bad. Since It bent slightly during removal the seal probably won't spin any more but something I certainly will be aware of when installing the new one. I'll double check for a wear sleeve but I don't remember one being on there.

 

So she is back together... using an SKF 39385 standard lip seal. No leaks thus far but haven't hauled anything yet.

The axle housing did have a wear groove in it which is likely the reason the new 39380 Scot seal leaked. I did get both seal types and playing around with the old seal, setting the hub in place, looking things over closely I'm pretty sure the Scot seal lined right up over the wear grove. Placing the 39385 lip seal right on the groove it was still snug on the axle. The seal is stepped with about 1/2 inch being the hub diameter and an inner smaller diameter of about 1/2 inch.

This got me to thinking...

I bet the original seals were not stepped which would have lined the wear groove right up with where a non-stepped flat seal would ride. The step, if only driven in to the step, would put the seal further back behind where the wear groove was. Oiled up the inner bearing, gave the hub and seal a thin coat of black RTV and drove the seal in only so the step was flush with the hub. Test fitting the hub the seal lip was clear of the axle flange, still on the seal seat and looked like the lip was riding just behind the wear groove. I decided to take a chance and put her together the rest of the way and all seems OK and no leaks.

I'll post again after hauling some loads.

 

Yesterday I hauled 5 loads of dirt. No visible leaks and certainly not like it was before - just a couple of miles and puddled 90W in the wheel. For my situation the Scot type seal was a bad choice. Standard lip seal the way to go. If I had had the time I would have put a speedy sleeve on the axle and will if I ever get that deep into her again.

As a side note, anyone needing help with parts for brakes, wheel seals or lugs I know a great commercial truck and trailer shop in Tacoma WA. A replacement bud lug setup there cost me less than the toll to cross the Narrows Bridge!

 

The first Narrows suspension bridge was known as "Galloping Gertie." A video shot at the time showed it swaying madly back and forth, then collapsing into the river.

 

Yup... Galloping Gertie and that poor dog! New materials, new design, new techniques discovered a new phenomenon - wind lift.

 

Guy got out of his car, saved himself, but left his dog inside. Car and dog ended up in the river along with the bridge.

 

Stemco seals usually have spedi sleeve with them. That is what I had to do on one side on 700, other side got wet seal as I know them by