Has anyone on here ever used one of Creb`s Engines?

I been in touch with them via ebay through a 306 short block they had listed for $1,504.70 and from the talks I had with them sounds like they are willing to work with me on a custom 306 short block build for my requirements and I see on their website is listed that they can get parts at such a discount that 99% of the parts they offer are cheaper than at any mail order company. Thinking about going through them via pay pal credit and have them get my heads as well if the price is right.

Just want to see who has used them before and what they think?

Im probably not justified in my feelings against blueprint but what this guy I know has said about many people he knows has problem with their engines from blueprint its knawed on me and now I see I can get more what I want and need for less cost.

 

Well Ive been chatting with the company, I have to make a decision now.

I can go with the 306 short block he offers for $1,504.70 + $200 s&h. This engine would net me an estimated 9.2:1 compression with 58cc heads and 0.039" compressed thickness head gaskets. Not exactly the 9.5:1 I was shooting for.

I also have an option from him for a 331 CI stroker at $2,365.20 + $200 s&h. This engine would net me an estimated 10.3:1 compression with 58cc heads. This would also require trying to source a proper 28 oz balancer that wont require spacers for a OEM V belt crank pulley as well as have the markings at the 10 o'clock location. The other thing it would require is purchasing of a 28 oz flex plate for my C6, which for some reason summit keeps listing them via 2 piece or 1 piece seal. Last time I checked I thought fords were interchangeable between 2 piece and 1 piece seals and only GM were the ones that had the difference.

None the less I have to make a decision. My price I settle on for the short block was going to be $2,400 as that is what the blueprint 306 cost. I have how ever been playing around with dynamic compression ratios trying to see which would be better for me. The 306 build with 9.2:1 compression would put me at 7.04:1 dynamic compression which should be a easy regular grade engine considering everything Ive found points to 8.50:1 dynamic compression being the limit for 92 octane with aluminum heads. The 331 stroker how ever at 10.3:1 compression would still only be 7.87:1 dynamic which in my eyes should still keep me with in the realm of regular grade fuel.

So what it boils down to is cost and what would I be happier with. Part of me says 331 stroker I would be happier with as more torque and higher compression. other part of me says 306 as I can reuse my oe flex plate and use the new balancer I have even though I hate the fact the markings are almost non existant.

 

You'll be happier with a 331. But what cam is in there ? My 331 has 10.4 to 1 static and requires at least 90 octane fuel. put 87 in the tank and it sounds like a rockcrusher.

 

His short block doesn't have a cam so I would be using the same Crane 449541 roller cam I have put up for my 306 build.

The math I did is showing the 331 would be 7.65:1 dynamic while the 306 would be 7.04:1 dynamic.

Pump gas wise the 306 I think would be without a doubt capable of running 87/89 octane. The 331 might be borderline for 87.

Based off DD2000, using the same specs outside of displacement and compression ratio it is showing the power difference between my 306 build and a 331 build would be just 13hp and 38ft lbs. If the 331 with the same components that I would use on the 306 is going to give very little performance gains then maybe its not truly worth the extra $1,000 for the 331 short block plus the some $300 - $400 for a 28oz balancer and flex plate.

I would like a 331 stroker but I keep coming back to the thought of do I need it for my goals. My goals has always been this is a street truck I drive it daily and I would like for it to have 300hp over the stock 135hp. Either engine I think would be well capable of giving me 300hp. Which has me logically saying a 306 would probably be better for me for a daily driver as the dynamic compression is low enough that I should be able to run regular grade pump gas, it should make 300hp considering DD2000 is estimating even at 9.2:1 compression at putting out 370hp @ 5500 rpm.

My gut is also telling me maybe the $1,000 I could spend on the 331 stroker would be better spent on getting the copper fire ring head gaskets at 0.039" compressed thickness over the steel fire ring head gaskets I have at 0.041" compressed thickness and I can look at finding a better double roller timing set for a two piece fuel pump eccentric than the Comp Magnum double roller #2138.

This is a serious problem I have, I go in with something mild but fun and next thing I know I end up with a freaking full blown race engine that is way more than what I need for my application. Only reason I even entertained the 331 stroker was cause I was concerned on the 9.2:1 compression ratio over the 9.5:1 I was shooting for. Was slightly concerned that the idle quality might change if I was on the lower side of the compression range than the higher side.

 

I'm running a bigger cam in my 331 with the same 112* LSA. And it won't burn 87-89. Double roller timing set ? O.E Cloyes Tru Roller for a 90's 5.0. Mine cost me $25 at OReilly's 15 years ago. You're still over thinking all this.

 

Well the Crane one I already have its a true roller by Comp that has been pre stretched but I was informed that its on the cheap side and I should consider a better quality true roller.

 

HUH ? Mine's been doing the job for 15 years now. No stretch when I saw it two years ago. I used a high dollar set (thinkin it was a Ford Racing set) in previous motor and it ate into the cam retainer plate inside of 2 years. I don't know if the plate was hardened or not, but I never reused it after that.

 

That's what I am reading up on right now is the cam retainer plate. not sure which one I need to run. I saw some with roller bearings but not sure if it would fit right I saw two listed by Comp one that requires machining and one that doesn't.

The other thing is I need to take my cam gear and grind on it as it has a lot of flash in the large openings I am partially afraid of the flashing breaking loose over time in the engine.

 

I used a Cloyes 3057 set. not sure if it was the X or K suffix. This is the O.E set for the late roller 5.0's Still runs about $25-30

 

This is the one I have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-2138

The crank gear is billet steel while the cam gear is iron which is why I want to grind out the flashing in the ovals being iron.

I cant figure out what thrust plate to use. Some claim if you are running iron you can run the plain thrust plate if you run billet you need to run the harden thrust plate. The confusion is some are saying its the camshaft material and some say its the timing set material. I think its the timing set material they are using as one guy pointed out that the cam is held off the thrust plate by oil film.

 

The one I had was worn by the sprocket not the cam. I made sure I used one from a 5.0 that came from the factory with the double row roller chain set when I assembled my 331. I had then and still have 3-4 of the plates hangin on a nail, but have no way of knowing which they are as far as hardened or not. The needle bearing thrust plate setup has to have machinework done to use it as I recall.

 

Yep I wasn't sure which way the plate received wear. Apparently its the cam gear on the timing set that provides the wear. so in my case I need a cast iron thrust plate for my build as the timing set has a cast iron gear. If I ever upgrade to a billet steel timing set I would have to change that plate for a harden steel plate.

I will get some part numbers and check for some OE ones as I don't want to fork over $60 for a Ford motor sport one when a oem stock plate will work just as good for me.

 

Well this discussion has me worried now. I installed a retrofit roller cam into my 1968 block, and reused the original cam retainer plate. I can't remember what cam sprocket I got, as it was a long time ago. If the gear was billet steel, how long would it run before it will cause wear into the plate?

 

From what I am hearing the cam doesnt touch the plate the cam gear on the timing set does. If you have an or style cast iron gear you use a cast iron plate. If bullet steel or just plain steel then you go with the steel plate.

 

Mine ran about 2-3 years if I recall before I went into the engine and discovered the damage. The cam gear was billet steel, it was a Ford Racing set.