Nothing wrong with using the high pressure std volume pump. I've used them before. I think I used one in my 331, but it's been 15 years since I assembled it. Cold pressure hits 80 psi when I fire it up.

 

80 PSI is what I keep seeing some claim 85. But I watched the Melling video and they used sbc pumps as an example to show comparison between stock, high pressure and high volume. The guy in the video for melling stated standard is 50 to 60 psi pressure relief, the high pressure is 70 to 80 psi and the high volume uses the same 70 psi spring as the high pressure.

Im seriously leaning towards the high pressure pump as I think 60 psi bypass might be too low for a new engine and I am partially afraid of it bypassing oil aerating the oil as well as generating oil pump heat by bypassing vs pumping. Why I keep leaning towards the M68-A which is the sbf standard volume high pressure pump. Could go with Mellings select pump that is standard volume with an adjustable bypass pressure spring but I don't need that plus Ive seen some people state in reviews the quality is not much different than the non select pumps.

Plus I already have the hardened ARP oil pump drive shaft already so I should be set. Just wished Melling would release the shark tooth oil pump for SBF`s like they did with SBC`s, they use a angle cut gear that reduces pulsation in oil pressure by 80% which also results in more stable ignition system and less vibration and load on the distributor itself.

 

Bypassing wouldn't create heat. Just the opposite. excess pressure in the pump would create heat, the relief opening will prevent that, recirculating the excess oil back to the inlet side. As for pulsation in std pumps, I don't see that in mine. You're over thinking this again.

 

I probably am. In the end they don't make the sharktooth for fords. So I will just be going with the standard M68-A high pressure oil pump. Just got confirmation that the M68-A uses a 80# bypass spring which is like OE ford based off what my shop manuals state. Rather run that than the stock replacement M68 that has a 60# spring.

My truck with two different OE gauges and two different sending units rides on the N in normal hot, cold, idle, or 4,000 rpm it doesn't matter it just sits there at N. The '82 at work I did the conversion to 5.0 Coyote the stock gauge on that thing reads on the high side of normal and drops to the middle once warm. Same way my 351W does, rides on the high side of normal around 70 psi at idle then once warm it idles at the middle around 40 psi.

Only thing left for me to think and dwell on is the oil pan rails that Ford Performance sells. Some state you have to run them with one piece oil pan gaskets and others state its recommended but you don't have to.

 

You're parsing all the aspects of this build, then comtemplating relying on the factory gauges ? As for the pan rails, that's a no brainer. Use them and the one piece gasket. Last cork pan gaskets I used was on the 351M I finished last month. And only because Felpro doesn't make the one piece for the 351M/400

 

Sure why not. Im priming the oil pump and reading oil pressure outside of the truck to ensure every lifter and every pushrod is pumping oil with no air. I can see what the pressure is and then compare the pressure to my gauge. If I know the pump is putting out and compare it to the OE gauge I will know where the pressure is at on the gauge. Then if I need to calibrate the gauge one way that requires the use of resistors then I can easily calibrate it.

Considering that I have two completely different OE gauges and have tried numerous different sending units from different brands and it reads the same every time then I think its safe to say everything is with in spec as far as the gauge goes.

Now I would gladly install the Dakota Digital gauge set which uses actual gauges for everything, but I wont for a few reasons. Biggest reason is you have to use their stand alone dimmer switch to control the brightness of the cluster. If they cant figure out a way to use the OE dimmer switch to control the brightness of the dash lights like Vintage Air has done with their electric HVAC panel then I don't think its worth $900 for their cluster.

 

There are better cheaper ($40 sets) of mechanical gauges out there.

 

Of course, but where will I mount one? I already have a CB mounted under the dash, my KC driving light switch is mounted under the dash as well. Only place left would be a location that I cant see.

 

What are you putting this in ?

 

This is going in my 82 F150.

I already have a small standalone gauge pod to mount via the center pillar screw for my transmission temperature gauge.

Outside of that only space I could mount it under the dash would be directly under the column which would make it obscure unless I lean back and duck down some to see it. Was a reason why I got rid of my aftermarket tach for a oe tach cluster. Thing moved around on the column and it blocked the odometer from view.

 

Ditch the CB, nobody uses them anymore. I hardly ever turn mine on now.

 

I could, but I did use it as a form of activity to keep me awake on long highway drives lol.

If only I didn't have dealer AC taking up the glove pocket I would make a panel to fit there and could mount my trans temp gauge and a oil pressure gauge there.

 

Listening to static ?

 

strangely enough here in Tx there is quite a bit of activity on CB`s still. Ch 19 on the highway you will always hear something, in Houston I noticed ch 7 and ch 9 is the most active, ch 9 if you want to hear a bunch of brothers using it like a cell phone ch 7 for actual people working in the city communicating.

 

Yea, in Espanol.