Creb Engineering - Anyone Use?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Think I only heard Spanish used twice when I was listening. Outside of that in the city, Ch9 is a bunch of ebonics which is quite funny especially when you get someone with a amplified rig comes in and silences them and tells them to stfu lol.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Well next summit order is on the way.
Got a set of the new ford performance oil pan rails, got a set of the ARP late model SBF oil pan bolt set for use with oil pans with rails, got the ARP oil pump bolt set which strangely comes with pickup bolts even though I already got the oil pickup stud kit. I also opted for the standard volume high pressure Melling M68-A oil pump. It was a judgement call and I got people telling me I should have gone with standard pressure high volume and not high pressure as high pressure is 100 psi or more.
Not what I was told from Melling, Melling said their standard M68 pump will bypass oil around 60 psi while the high pressure M68-A will bypass oil around 80 psi which matches the OE spec for oil pump pressure in all my shop manuals. I also didn't think high volume would be smart with a OE 5 quart oil pan going down the highway spinning almost 3,000 rpm at 75 mph. Would be a struggle with 10w30 trying to drain back into the pan faster than the oil pump is pumping up into the heads. Plus I didn't think roller cam and roller rockers truly needed extra volume of oil.
Got a set of the new ford performance oil pan rails, got a set of the ARP late model SBF oil pan bolt set for use with oil pans with rails, got the ARP oil pump bolt set which strangely comes with pickup bolts even though I already got the oil pickup stud kit. I also opted for the standard volume high pressure Melling M68-A oil pump. It was a judgement call and I got people telling me I should have gone with standard pressure high volume and not high pressure as high pressure is 100 psi or more.
Not what I was told from Melling, Melling said their standard M68 pump will bypass oil around 60 psi while the high pressure M68-A will bypass oil around 80 psi which matches the OE spec for oil pump pressure in all my shop manuals. I also didn't think high volume would be smart with a OE 5 quart oil pan going down the highway spinning almost 3,000 rpm at 75 mph. Would be a struggle with 10w30 trying to drain back into the pan faster than the oil pump is pumping up into the heads. Plus I didn't think roller cam and roller rockers truly needed extra volume of oil.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
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From: south louisiana
The Mexicans are the only ones I hear on the CB when around Houston. The Ebonics crowd can be heard over here, especially in Baton Rouge. All noise and not saying a damned thing.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Wonder what channel. Then again I only am on mine on way to work and on way home after work which is at 7:40am and 6:00pm, so it very possibly could be a time thing as well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
It amazes me how many people are so adamant about running high volume oil pumps or stock pumps and never running high pressure pumps.
That makes no sense to me as I looked up in my '78 Ford car shop manual and it listed for 302/351 engines that oil pressure spec is 40 - 65 psi @ 2000 rpm hot. I am like sheesh how is a Melling stock pressure pump be capable of hitting 65 psi @ 2000 rpm hot when the bypass opens up at 60 psi.
Kind of makes me want to second guess myself but I know I shouldn't and I wont as OE spec pressure wise exceeds the pressure regulation on the stock melling pump which leaves me with just the high pressure option.
Outside of that Im wondering if I could run oil thinner than 10w30. Will have to see what weight the builder recommends.
That makes no sense to me as I looked up in my '78 Ford car shop manual and it listed for 302/351 engines that oil pressure spec is 40 - 65 psi @ 2000 rpm hot. I am like sheesh how is a Melling stock pressure pump be capable of hitting 65 psi @ 2000 rpm hot when the bypass opens up at 60 psi.
Kind of makes me want to second guess myself but I know I shouldn't and I wont as OE spec pressure wise exceeds the pressure regulation on the stock melling pump which leaves me with just the high pressure option.
Outside of that Im wondering if I could run oil thinner than 10w30. Will have to see what weight the builder recommends.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
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From: south louisiana
Channel 19
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Interesting. Might need to hit up Ch19 more throughout the day when I get a chance and see. I know morning and evenings when I go to work and go home from work I don't hear Spanish.
outside of that, I got a new one. Guy is telling me I should disassemble the Creb short block and check the bearing clearances. I didn't plan on going that far. I did plan on backing all the bolts back and torque them to spec to make sure that he didn't under torque or over torque them.
outside of that, I got a new one. Guy is telling me I should disassemble the Creb short block and check the bearing clearances. I didn't plan on going that far. I did plan on backing all the bolts back and torque them to spec to make sure that he didn't under torque or over torque them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
I have found that no two torque wrenches are exactly alike, even the same model from one company. Unless you have them professionally calibrated, there will be variances sometimes significant, as they come off the production line. So you may expect to see some numbers that are not exactly what you think they should be. Just make sure they're all consistent.
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Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
I have found that no two torque wrenches are exactly alike, even the same model from one company. Unless you have them professionally calibrated, there will be variances sometimes significant, as they come off the production line. So you may expect to see some numbers that are not exactly what you think they should be. Just make sure they're all consistent.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Its some things I need to consider. I figured on checking the torque for the rod and main caps but I just don't know if I should go to the trouble of checking bearing clearances. That would require I purchase more tools that will be a one time use thing. Plus I don't believe a engine shop that goes to the trouble of line boring the mains and cam journals to ensure they are all square and round as well as regrinding the crank if it needs it as its OE Ford. In my eyes going to that trouble should ensure the bearings should be all the same. Only question is what kind of bearing clearance is being used.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
The bolts are supposed to be ARP`s on this. I just need to make a decision on stud or bolt. I just think I will stick with bolts cause I honestly don't believe spending extra to get studs to run a $60 windage tray is going to make a noticeable difference in either power or fuel economy.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
The bolts are supposed to be ARP`s on this. I just need to make a decision on stud or bolt. I just think I will stick with bolts cause I honestly don't believe spending extra to get studs to run a $60 windage tray is going to make a noticeable difference in either power or fuel economy.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Which is why I keep returning back to the idea of running one. Only problem is the only one available for a stock oil pan with a rear sump will require modification to clear the oil pickup and the dipstick.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 11,141
Likes: 25
From: south louisiana
It's been some time since I looked, but seems to me there would be more than one vendor making rear sump windage trays for Mustangs.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
On the 5 hits for rear sump you have Canton, Moroso, and Milodon.
The Canton 20-930 is listed as fitting OE and Aftermarket oil pans. This is the one I am looking at and Canton set it on their mock up block and said I might have to bend/tweak my dipstick for it to clear under the windage tray. I also saw photos online of people having to cut out mesh at the oil pump to get the oil pickup to fit the oil pump.
The Moroso 22930 is listed as only fitting Moroso drag oil pans.
The Canton 20-960 is listed as only fitting the Canton 21-060 main support.
Then the Milodon 32212 is listed as not working with factory pickups.
The last one is the Canton 20-930P which is listed as fitting stock or aftermarket oil pans this is a louvered pan where the 20-930 is a mesh. This one also has a review stating it doesn't fit without modification for a rear sump.
Guess I will have to do some digging to see which one would work best. I know I prefer a louvered version as the louvers are supposed to catch the oil and direct it away from the crank where the screen just supposed to let it drip through. The louvered version the 20-930P looks like it possibly has a hole for a block mounted dipstick on the driverside to pass through but I have to do some digging for videos and photos of them being installed.