Maybe the part is mislabeled, but I thought those were the part numbers you posted. It is coded R-GR on my wiring diagrams as well. Perhaps the seller has an incorrect cross reference? I see that it is actually a “D1AB”...always gotta be careful with eBay, lol. At least the length of the wire that got burned up is no where close to 60”, so it couldn’t have been the resistor wire.

 

Lol, you have a point! I do have to take the seat out so I can pull the remnants of the flooring out and see how bad the rust holes are in the floorpans...I'm hoping I don't have to replace them, but from what I'm seeing I'm afraid I will. I was waiting until after I got her running again and could move it to a better spot, and for some help!

 

At least I think it is 3 bolts (per side/per slider?), its been a while since I pulled a seat myself. WD 40 them 1st. I remember you need a ratchet wrench for the front 1? per bracket due to close proximity of the seat bracket right above it. And then slide the seat all the way fwd to get to the 2? on the rear of the bracket. And if it is still tight for you to reach in there with the seat all the way fwd and tilted fwd, grab a 3 ft extension to reach those rear bolts with the impact. It can be a little tight back there....here is a fellow FTE buddy getting a seat out. It can be tilted fwd and dragged out by one person. Have you never drove a truck setting on a 5 gal bucket or a milk crate, that's living the Ford truck dream right there. lol

 

Found an article here with a very similar issue...has some pics of his resistor wire, though it's from a '78 Bronco I think, but may be same as mine..

https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...re-needed.html

Although in my case I know what caused the short. I still think the 16 R-GR wire that burned is the non-resistor wire from the ignition switch, and the intact 16 R-GR must be/go to the resistor wire. I've got a new starter relay, and the black wire going from the old one to the starter is bad as well. I don't know if it fried or just fell apart from rot, but replacing that too. Also, the brown wire leaving the starter relay to the ignition coil, which I believe connects with the resistor wire, is frayed and corroded at the starter relay, so need to fix that too.


UPDATE: Just did a quick continuity check from the 16 R-GR I have left at the ignition switch to the BR wire at the starter relay and it's reading 1.6 ohms, so that is definitely the R-GR on the resistor wire. I know that 1.6 ohms is a little high (specified range is 1.3 - 1.4 ohms), but I didn't have great connections since I had to use alligator clips to reach and there is some corrosion that I need to clean up on the brown wire, plus I was reading all the way to the starter relay so more wire, but would everyone agree that it sounds like my resistor wire is ok?

 

The 552 is considered a heavy duty version of the 224. So a hazard flasher is will work fine for turn signals. Pretty sure you could order a heavy-duty flasher for turn signals on some vehicles, and in that case you got a 552.
The 4-ways pull twice as much current, so they need the 552. A 224 will work, but I'm assuming that it has less of a chance of surviving the life of the vehicle when used for the 4-ways.

But switching them won't fry anything, except maybe the 224...

 

Thanks meangreen92! I went ahead and picked up a heavy duty 12 lamp hazard flasher to replace that just in case.

 

In the older vehicles the connector layout was the same between the two flasher types, so they could be swapped and still work.
Yours also says "2 Lamp 12 volt" right there, which means it's for use with two lights (turn signals) vs a "4 Lamp" version which would be for the 4-way/hazard flashers. Heavier duty because it has to work with more light bulbs.

But it's easy for someone to use the wrong one in the last 40 years or thereabouts. So go by the wire colors and locations first, markings second.

As you figured then, not the a cause of your troubles. But at least you're getting intimately familiar with the wiring of your truck!

Good luck.

Paul

 

Hey guys, thanks to everyone for the help on this one! I got my terminals in today, got the new heavy duty flasher installed and the all of the burned wires replaced, plus 2 fusible links on the starter relay (just heavily corroded) and the power cable from the relay to the starter (also heavily corroded and insulation falling off), and she's up and running again. It appears my main problem was that missing 16 R-GR wire coming off the ignition that evaporated from the short, but the other wires had to be replaced as well.

 

Just something to watch out for....one time I had a 73 and had a similar choke wire grounded out issue. Burned a wire all the way to the back of the ignition switch. Got it all fixed and then started having battery charging troubles. Ended up having to run an extra keyed hot wire to the voltage regulator, back when they were mounted on the passenger side/back side of the radiator core support.

 

Thanks, will keep an eye out for that as well.