I wondering if the inner shell dome of the high roof can be removed, while still maintaining rigidity. Has anyone done that?

I want to maximize my interior volume, and I noticed there is about 4" between the outer shell dome and inner shell dome.




Side question, know what this was used for? It looks different than ambulances and wheelchair roofs

 

 

No way to really know what prompted the high roof addition---most likely hauling cargo of some sort.

Whether there is the typical upper "roll cage" such modifications have would take a bit of digging into your van. I'd run a snake camera in one of those light holes and see what's between the inner shell you can see and the roof of the added top. Its possible there is a cavity of sorts above the part you can see since the wires are dropping down from above, not surface mounted.

With the two views you show its tough to tell---a lot of times there are signs an inner structure has been added. One way to make a better guess is the B-Pillar should have the side-to-side original roof rib still in place along with the original roof still intact from the B-Pillars forward to the A-Pillars and across the top where the windshield is installed. I don't see the upper structure over the B-Pillar I'd expect to see with the inner "roll cage" so that's unclear to me.

 

JWA - The original roof is intact between the B & A pillars. You can see my tools resting on that "shelf" Sorry for the poor picture.
Ill check the interior for structure with an endoscope camera through the light holes. If there is no "roll cage" supports, is it bad to cut out and remove this inner shell?

Is it bad to cut the original roof between A&B pillars? (seems like it may provide rigidity to the rest of the van roof). However, maybe I can make some cross beams to suffice.

 

The body forward of the B-Pillars is left intact for DOT safety regulations and its a good idea too---without that entire portion still present any sort of front end or roll over collision would put people at greater risk for bodily injury. That flimsy fiberglass roof is useless from a body rigidity POV. If your particular van has the C-Pillar rear door area supported by a metal welded in place lentil (which is most likely considering the extended height rear doors) then you have some rigidity but not as much as if the full "roll cage" is present.

Take a look at my 2005 with a mild raised roof complete with the "roll cage" and rear lentil installed but uncovered. This van had a Club Wagon type interior with most of the factory headliner intact but modified to accommodate the raised roof. 2005 Raised Roof Inner Structure

Any idea what the interior shell is made of? How thick is it?

 

JWA- Nie structure! I ran an endoscope and here's what I found:

There are 3 x internal ribs attached to the outer shell but only attached to the inner shell with 2 screws per rib (coming up from the inside of the cieling). See internal ribs in picture 1& 2. I could not conclude if the ribs extend into the wall sections or just the ceiling section. These ribs appear to only be fibreglass, but could have a foam core. I will check again for the wall sections.

The third image is looking down from the top within the walls. You can see the top rail of the van (white painted metal).

Because there are ribs attached to the outer shell, I think it's viable to hack away at the internal shell. And then, I could create some tubing type reinforcement alongside the fibreglass ribs. This does create a good deal of additonal work, finishing the raw fibreglass. But it would buy me about 2" vertically (minus rib areas) and about 4" in the wall sections.

 

IMHO you'd be best advised to simply leave the upper body extension alone---trying to modify it at this stage just isn't your best option. While I fully understand the desire for additional space what you're proposing would further weaken the body from the B-Pillars rearward.

I'm guessing or assuming the C-Pillars are joined with a steel welded-in lintel where the taller doors close and latch? If that's the case then that's acceptable but beginning model year 2007 DOT required roof extensions included provisions for the rear doors have latches and strikes in the upper portions to function as stock doors and C-Pillar latches do.

On obtaining extra space in a raised roof van---I removed the entire "roll cage" in my first raised roof van, a 2000 E250 regular length body. I had no clue the inner structure was so important to at least partially maintaining the van's body generally good rigidity. Removing it does give me significant "flexing" of the body at the C-Pillars. I gained so little additional side and upper space that I honestly wish I had been better informed long before taking my reciprocating saw to it all.

 

This post is for anyone in the future wondering.
i successfully removed the inner shell and it went for 51” wide to 60” wide near the base. Once insulation is put in, we’ll be thankful.

this is how I removed it.

18 cutoff screws were located across both sides. I used a cutoff disc on an angle grinder and carved “flat heads” into them. Then I broke them free with pliers. Then I unscrewed them out the top (inaccessible in-between area). there was 3 or 5 more in the front under the cieling cover.
Next I used a combination of a circular saw and a jig saw to make a cut in the most rearward section of the inner shell (by the rear doors).
i ripped this small piece out
then, I pulled the two sides of the make shift “boat shell” inwards and it fell down and was easy to slide right out of the van and chop into a bunch of garbage size pieces!

Removed!

Process of removing

 

Update: it is quite rigid going down the highway. And I’m happy to find the 3x wood slats to mount to on the roof.

 

That could very well be true but for me I'd be interested seeing the rear or C-Pillar lentil as its attached to the metal body. I'm guessing that along with the intact roof and side-to-side ribs helps rigidity.

The embedded wood will be useful attachments for most anything where relatively short wood screws could be used to hold whatever in place. Your found space will be great for adding insulation---so much heat is lost through the roof coz heat rises.

Nice progress so far---what's next?

 

How do I change my username? (used facebook and it seems locked) Can a moderator change it to soopervan, please?

Okay, you asked for it: I'm still in the design phase... But here's what's on the radar

• Roof Layout:
  • Determine Location of roof vents and size&location of solar panels (2x 100, 160, or 175W)
  • plan to weld some angular extensions to the normal groove-pinching style rail roof bars. This will allow me to make a roof rack. But, I'm thinking of making this out of aluminum for lower C.G. considerations.
  • I need to be able to fit some gear on the roof, 17'x 8"x8" 65lb hang-glider - but I might just side mount this right off the custom extensions. Easier access too.
• Subfloor (3/8" plywood, maybe just reflectix underneath)
• Walls/Ceiling: Due to the complicated sheet metal shell structure, walls will be in faceted sections to reduce wasted space, especially in the area of the sideways mattress. Furring strips will be of different thicknesses to accommodate. Polyiso 1/2" and 3/4" to fit. 1/4" White wainscoat is planned.
• Trifold, convertible bed-couch with pull out support. Location: sideways, right behind front seats. Pulls out to the side doors.
• Prove out heat exchanger hot shower & thermostat.
• Undermounted water and grey tank. I like the area on the driver side, there's room for 20 gallons right near that a/c line outlet. And I like the area behind the rear wheel on that side for the grey tank. (but I need to think about the balance)
• Last thing: I like the idea of things be movable, as space is limited. After removing the internal roof shell, I realized there's an opportunity to run linear rails (where the shell was mounted), for roller bearing carriages. This way "something" could roll back and forth in the van (bridged across and mounted up high, maybe 1' deep), and have locking brakes. Perhaps it's extra storage, easy access items. In lounging mode, it can be pushed to the kitchen side, and in the cooking mode, it can be pushed to the lounging side.

 

Putting it plan and simple your existing fiberglass raised roof will not support a lot of weight whether its attached and hanging from the wood pieces or attached to the top outside in the elements.

I'd use 3/4" plywood on the floor without anything between---you don't want anything to trap moisture or hinder high humidity air escaping back out. There's no practical way to seal that area form all moisture so its best it can move in and back out freely. Reflectix isn't that good an insulator in the first place and as heat rises there's no need for any sort of insulation under the plywood.

I can link you to my Imgur site where photos of my own raised roof with the "roll cage" intact which would support hanging weight but even with that capacity mounting roof racks etc wouldn't be possible without fairly serious modification to the top. On the sides above the original roof line would be a bit less complicated but still not a drill and screw together operation.

Your plans for the original metal body cavities is okay---insulating those surfaces has always been a challenge.

I'm not trying to dash your plans but you do want to plan this out carefully. You might try looking at a few hundred threads on The Sportsmobile Forums: SMB Forums---lots of DIY camper-type builds there---a ton and more of ideas and finished projects like you have planned.

 

Solid point on the fiberglass roof capacity. I am now concerned that mounting even 1/4" plywood over 3/4" foam insulation on the roof might be pushing it. I don't want to mount it to the exterior roof rack, because i want to be able to remove the roof rack.
Maybe a wooden frame can come up from the top of the metal body to support the roof sheet plywood. Maybe I can find something thinner and lighter.

I'm 5'-11" and with the bare van, I have about 2.5-3" of head space with shoes on. With 3/4" on the floor(5/8" ply and 2mm vinyl) and 1" on cieling (3/4" insulation, 1/4" ply cieling) it will be pushing it.

Floor: I like hearing ditching the insulation on the floor. Did not know the floor acted as a humidity escape. I knew reflectix was marginal value in-floor anyways.

I will scan the forums, thank you.